Free of domestic duties, Hector was able to fill in one of the few blanks in the coverage of Curry Houses in Glasgow. As reported previously, it was Dr. Stan who spotted Glassy Central (285 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow G2 3HQ) as we walked past a few weeks back. With no shop frontage, Glassy Central is easy to miss, a la The India Club (Westminster) visited last week. That they have suspended lunchtime opening, scheduling a review here was going to be difficult, how often does Hector have Curry of an evening? But hey-ho, today was that day.
Arriving at 17.30, that I was going to a basement venue surprised. Having looked into the darkness previously, I thought Glassy Central was an upstairs venue. So what was here before? The cordon, at the doorway during opening times, hopefully does attract some attention, in addition to the now illuminated signage.
What a pukka place, it’s amazing how mirrors can create the sense of vastness. The booths along the far wall allow flexibility in seating. Central tables separate these from the long bar.
Having looked online at the time of discovery, I found reference to Glassy Central being – Scotland’s first Desi Pub. Bar & Grill – is also how they promote themselves. Do people really go to Indian Restaurants for drinks? In Europe this is commonplace, something new for Glasgow. Adjacent to my table were taps pouring – cocktails – the far end of the bar had various lager taps including one Bier from Czechia – Pravha (Staropramen). Also on tap, Aspall Cider, now we’re talking. Hector ordered a bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.00).
Mein Host brought the menu, a mature chap, I wondered if our paths had crossed before. A three course meal (£11.95) was also on offer.
I already knew what I was here for, – Desi – was one attraction, also – Lamb on-the-bone – such a rarity in restaurant Curry. Chef’s Special Lamb on the bone (£8.95) was ordered with Special Rice (£2.95) accompanying. I had to ask what Vegetables were with the Rice – Peas, Carrots... – just to ensure that no Peppers would be served. There was no discussion about Spice Level for the Curry, but then – amateurus eateris – would hardly order this.
The price of main courses in this city centre restaurant is certainly a plus. Of course, I hadn’t seen the portion size, or the price of cocktails etc. £7.50 for the other Lamb Dishes makes a mockery of the Merchant City. £1.00 here for a Chapatti is honourable, realistic. I note their Karahi features the dreaded Capsicum, maybe on a future visit, this can be discussed and withheld. The Takeaway Menu I picked up at the door does not feature Lamb Karahi or the Lamb on-the-bone, one can ask, unlike…
Two young acquaintances were in München last week. On my recommendation they went to Indian Mango, the source of the finest Fish Chettinad ever encountered. It wasn’t on the lunchtime menu – was relayed back. It’s not on any menu! Ask! Any establishment which cannot cook to order is suspect, hence my general avoidance of chains who may have robots in their kitchens.
A couple, clearly known to Mein Host, were sat in the adjacent booth. It was only then I realised that there were mirrors at (sitting) head height. I was losing my bearings, more customers arrived but from where? I had no idea where the route to the stairs lay. Note to Hector, on leaving, do not walk into the kitchen. Sparkling Water.
The Curry was brought first, what a mound of Meat and Masala. Brimming. The Special Rice looked modest in comparison. Peas and Carrots were there along with Green Beans, two types. Proper Vegetables, not the abomination which Dr. Stan ordered at the aforementioned – The India Club.
I arranged the Rice on the plate, this was not for sharing, a sensible portion for one.
Chef’s Special – Lamb on the bone
Topped with Coriander and sliced Green Chillies, a – kick – was anticipated. On placing my spoon in the Masala, the peripheral Oil spilled on to the table, well that was that taken care of. The next dig hit rock bottom. Commensurate with the mass of mirrors, the actual Curry pot was the same size as the Rice. There was a stand beneath with place for a candle, no candle.
I counted the Meat as I decanted, the magic eight, including three large bones shrouded in Lamb. Maybe as per – The India Club – three portions between two could be a consideration, but if one had a Starter then this would be more than enough.
The Masala was Thick, already the pedigree for this Curry was evident. The Meat to Masala ratio was appropriate, no – Soup – here.
This Curry was a slow starter. A decent Spice Level was hindered by moderate Seasoning. Hector likes his Chefs to be – brave. The quality of the Meat was a standout, this was as Tender as Lamb can be. I do congratulate Chef for presenting Lamb this soft without it turning to pulp.
Slowly, and as slowly as I was eating to savour this delight, the recognisable – Desi Flavour – which distinguishes a Curry from the Mainstream, emerged. Mein Host was across to tell me that Lamb on-the-bone will taste different from the norm. I assured him that I have had this oft in the Curry Cafes on Glasgow’s Southside.
Trying to isolate a particular Spice was proving to be impossible, a fine Garam Masala then? The root Flavour was familiar, but not in one’s face, no – Wow! – ah, the Seasoning could have given so much more. Cardamom was my educated guess, with no whole Spices one cannot be sure.
Curry – is how this was described on the menu. Curry – is something I rarely order. This transformed to a Desi Karahi (no Capsicum) and the Hector could be in raptures.
I ate on, quality Curry, excellent Meat, the Vegetables were a suitable distraction, who wants just Meat & Masala? I was aware of an Oily residue on the base of the plate, but one cannot make a Curry of this quality without sufficient Oil/Ghee.
Every grain of Rice was eaten, the bones suitably gnawed then replaced back in the pot. I would definitely have this again.
The Bill
£14.90 In the city centre, a main course alone can cost this.
The Aftermath
Time for introductions, I went up to the bar to pay and gave the Calling Card.
How long have you been open, that Curry was not made by chance.
Six months.
Mein Host took my card over to the young lady who had recently arrived. This was Priya, daughter of Kinder who had served me. Priya recognised the Curry-Heute Calling Card! The father and daughter team had sold Times of Punjab (Renfrew) where Marg and Hector dined in 2021. Priya remembered Marg from our visit to Times of Punjab. Then I had an impressive Pan Fried Machi Desi Punjabi Masala. I see no Fish Curry in the Glassy Central menu. My thoughts on Prawn Curry are occasionally blogged, if the diner insists…
Kinder went out of his way to tell me that everything served here is fresh, even the Pakora which typically is double fried, and even bought in at some venues.
Before Times of Punjab, and this is going back a while, they had Diva (Dalmuir) which I note, on one visit, did not have – The Clydebank Curry Taste.
I had to ask about lunchtime opening being suspended. It’s all to do with Chef’s hours. Hopefully, once Glassy Central is better established, this shall return. Note Hector prefers to eat at 15.00.
Priya and Kinder clearly know the business, however, basement premises must be difficult. Hopefully Curry-Heute can do its bit to inform the masses. I shall certainly return, with Marg, of an evening.
And as for the couple who sat near me? They were regulars at Times of Punjab.
Renfrew, not the easiest town to get to/from. When will the bridge to Clydebank be completed?
2023 Menu
