I do go on about it, just a bit, so you can guess what’s coming … in the words of a famous Prog Track – I like to be here when I can.
Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland), the Curry House that set the standard for both Lamm and Fisch Chettinad : B.C-H.
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie (Crawley) had the dawn flight from Gatwick to München, Dr. Stan arrived in the city by train, around the same time that Hector was landing at the Flughafen. A rendezvous at Indian Mango was mooted, however, once Augustiner’s charms have come into vogue, who would leave? They didn’t.
Hector arrived at Isartor at the declared 18.20, the – Lone Diner. There was no sign of Her Battra, the co-manager – Rakes – recognised me as I entered. A table at the rear was allocated, the menu was not even glanced at, tonight: Fish Chettinad (€14.00), plus a Sparkling Water (€3.00). Why have Bier here?
Whilst waiting, I studied the menu, no inflation in Deutschland since my last visit in April last year? Another solo diner was sat mid-room, he had a somewhat rich looking Curry; what, I shall never know, despite him still being present as I departed. Evidently, he was savouring the moment. And why not?
Rakes brought the Order. The Rice portion which felt OTT a decade ago would be manageable. This is Europe, who can eat all that Rice?
Fish Chettinad
The oblong plate was different, as were the contents. The quantity impressed, I have previously commented upon the paucity of the portion. I decanted five large pieces of Fish, as in seriously large. I was left with a Thick Masala, interesting.
In the years – Before Curry-Heute – the Fisch Chettinadu – was approaching – Soupy – as it is served across the planet. Having discussed this with Mr. Jolly, in time the classic, almost – stir-fry – version evolved. New Chef, was the immediate conclusion. However, as I ate, one of the two long standing Chefs passed by and smiled in recognition. Is this the new version or, did he not know who he was cooking for? Tomorrow’s Lamm Chettinad may reveal all.
The blast of Flavour from the Fish headed off any sign of disappointment. Thick Fish, integrity maintained, white, perhaps if I look back through a well known and reliable Curry Blog, I’d be able to offer a name for the species?
The Spice would build steadily. The Seasoning was fine if only the whole Dish had been hotter. Green Cardamom, I left two, swallowed one. The customary – smokiness – was there, but less intense.
The Masala was a revelation. That there was one came as surprise. Was this possibly the Fish Curry (€13.00)? The Texture revealed the pedigree, one does not stumble across this. Having flaked the Fish, the relative ratios of – Fish-Masala-Rice – worked well. Again, if only the Dish had been hotter on arrival.
Rakes checked on my progress, who was I to say this was radically different, yet a horse clearly from the same stable. A ringer? A damn fine Fish Curry, but not the Chettinadu of old.
The Bill
€17.00 (£14.98) Indian Mango used to feel expensive, British inflation has changed that perception.
The Aftermath
Rakes intimated that Herr Battra has gone. Chef remains the last remnant of the original Jolly Kunjappu days. Chef did engage at the counter as I paid. I attempted to convey the difference as described above, tomorrow should reveal all.
Rakes clearly remembered me from my last visit, Marg too.
Tomorrow, Clive and Maggie plan to accompany. Dr. Stan should still be recovering from Frühstuck.