One of the 5 places for a great Glasgow Curry… so wrote The Herald many years ago, as reported by Hector back in 2011, the first visit to The Alishan Tandoori (250 Battlefield Road, Glasgow, G42 9HU) in the era of Curry-Heute.
Twenty five years ago, Hector was a regular at The Alishan, my favourite Glasgow Curry House for many years. The discovery of Bradford Curry set the Hector on a new path. The Village, so my first post at this venue reminds me, captured the Hector back in 2004. I have been discussing Desi v Mainstream quite a bit of late. The Alishan is decidedly Mainstream, but has ambience. Marg likes ambience, so where better to take her on her return from Aberdoom? A table was booked for 20.30. It’s always better to book at this venue.
Since Mother passed (she was last here in 2016), this part of Glasgow is rarely visited. I note Shezan Tandoori disappeared at some point during Lockdown. This is the twenty-fourth Southside Curry House to close in the time of Curry-Heute. Mt. Florida has no Curry House, once again. Why nobody in Battlefield has dared to open a venue to rival The Alishan puzzles, especially given that The Moti Mahal has gone also. Where is Tony now? I know someone who has the answer.
Arriving punctually, I gave my Sunday name, we were led beyond a large group to one of the four remaining tables. Ali, I believe it was he, helped me in to the table, the social distancing barrier was still in situ. Actually, as the photo of Hector below shows, this might predate Covid. The decor hasn’t changed, nor have the staff. Surely the lady behing the bar has been there since the 1990s?
The menu was brought, a tome, nothing has changed except the prices. Both Lamb Curry and Chicken Curry are being charged at the same price, cheeky.
No large bottles of Sparkling Water were available, 330ml Perrier sufficed. Was I really charged approaching four quid a bottle?
Pholan Devi (£15.50) was once the Hector’s go-to Curry at The Alishan. Marg had previously enjoyed the Lamb Balti (£12.90). Something different: Lamb Mirchi Garam Masala (£15.50), one Curry that certainly avoided the otherwise ubiquitous Capsicum. Yes, we’re back in the Mainstream, one has to be careful. For Marg: Karahi Mince & Mushrooms (£10.90). Can one deduce Beef Keema given the price differential?
The Nan (£3.10) at The Alishan was once legendary, in – recent – visits, I know they have been reined in, still, for old time’s sake. Samundri Rice (£4.10) completed the Order.
Ali offered Marg extra Chillies on top, declined, Hector accepted. I no longer see the – extra 50p – charge for this. Marg asked that the Peppers be withheld in her Karahi, not a problem.
At this point one usually settles down for the wait. Not tonight. The Birthday Party was a 40th. Alas, at the coffee stage of the meal, they were not for moving on. Two weans were running wild, each trying to outdo each other in who could offend our eardrums more. Past their bedtime, surely! There was no respite.
We, the other five diners, were here – to dine. What chance do the children have if the adults have cognitive disabilities?
Perhaps we should have been warned at the time of booking?
Did this ruin the night?
Yes!
So much for ambience.
The Curry arrived with two portions of Rice. There had been a boo-boo. Plain Naan, not Pilau (£3.10) had been noted. There would be a three minute hiatus. In the meantime, the Rice featuring – Onions, Peas and Mushrooms – was divvied up. Plenty to share, and tasty it was too. Excellent Rice.
The Naan came as soon as, nowhere near as large as the halcyon days when it was one and a half times the size of the platter. Pale, a rushed job, barely risen despite the puffiness, thin, and glistening. The wetness did not register until later.
Lamb Mirchi Garam Masala
That’s a serious Topping of sliced Green Chillies.
The Meat count was well into double, albeit small pieces. Having decanted the Lamb and sufficient Masala to create what looked like – Curry & Rice – I was left with half a bowlful. A – Soupy Curry – therefore by any definition, not what the the Hector seeks. A bhuna style sauce – said the description on the menu. In what way was this a – Bhuna? It’s just as well we ordered Rice.
With the abundant Green Chillies, there was a suitable – kick. The Seasoning was woefully lacking. On the second Alishan post in Curry-Heute, ironically titled – A Place to Dine – the lack of Seasoning was also raised. I could not help but notice tonight that Salt & Pepper were on the table, a rarity these days. Hector of course has a pact – eat the food as prepared by Chef.
There was a tangy edge to the overall Flavour, however, something wasn’t sitting on the palate as I would like. As with a rogue hop in a Craft Beer, there was a definite sense of something – nasty – here. Whilst I tried to dismiss this and get on with eating what was otherwise an enjoyable Curry, the brain was determined to identify the intruder.
All that glistens is not always Garlic, however the sheen on the Naan could well have been. The Hector goes out of his way to avoid Garlic Naan for this very reason. I should have ordered a Fresh Coriander Nan (£4.20).
Karahi Mince & Mushrooms
Keema Khumbi should be served as Dry as a … not have an Oil slick sitting on top. Why was this not dabbed off before serving? Far too wet, again, it’s just as well we had the Rice to absorb the wettest Keema I have seen in yonks.
A Soupçon crossed the table, there was definitely more of an Earthy Flavour to this Curry.
It’s got a kick! – exclaimed Marg at the outset. Oh we’re back to the pre-Lisboa – Chilli shock experience – well a month has passed.
Spicier than expected, an interesting combination with the mince and mushrooms. I found it quite oily, but mixed well with the vegetables…
Having finished all on the table save a scrap of Naan, Ali saw the empty plates.
We’d rather it was this way than have a Starter and leave half the Curry. We are out for – Curry.
There was a concurrent nod.
This means I appear to have accepted the realistic size of the Naan as currently served, though back in the day, it was a hoot. For that, go to Akbar’s, order the Family Nan (£5.95).
In the hope that the mob might actually be leaving, and I report the longest departure in history, Marg ordered ice-cream. The Alishan still serves industrially produced Desserts. Honey Pot (£3.95), complete with almonds, was her choice.
Marg finished her ice-cream. Suddenly all was quiet. Ali suggested coffee – now that it’s peaceful -, declined.
The Bill
£45.05 £7.50 for 660ml of Sparkling Water.
The Aftermath
On discussing the meal on the way home, Marg, who had a better perspective, assured me the wean count was more than two, as many as four possibly. Are there no baby sitters on the Southside? An average Curry, ruined as a dining experience.
One of the 5 places for a great Glasgow Curry – once upon a time. Hector stands by his own recommendations – Glasgow’s Top Rated. OK, many are Curry Cafes, but where was the ambience this evening?
2023 Menu extracts
