Thunderstorm over, and having completed my duties at the Glasgow Real Ale Festival – G-RAF – it was time to eat. Having been nothing but critical of Karahi Palace (New-co) (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) in recent weeks due to their unreliable opening times, and serving up the wrong Curry, it was time for another go.
21.20, hopefully they hadn’t closed early.
Four chaps, sitting at my favourite table, was the first thing that caught the eye as I entered. Approaching the counter, the most recent Chef was not in situ. However, here was a young, bearded chap, displaying a beaming smile of recognition. Behold Moiz (Darbar Grill), whose photo first appeared in Curry-Heute as a young boy back in 2016. He has been serving me in subsequent visits to Darbar Grill when his father, Ahmed, has not been present.
I had to ask what he was doing here.
We took over a week and a half ago!
I have to admit to the heart sinking. The recent Chef could almost replicate the wonder that was the Karahi Lamb (£12.00) as prepared by Chef Rashid or the former manager, Ayaz. This surely means the end of Karahi Palace as the Hector knows it. One hundred and forty two visits, now to be reclassified in [square brackets] as – no more!
Let’s get the Order placed and find out. A Chapatti (£1.00) would accompany. Moiz asked if I wanted Tawa or Tandoori. That was new, Tandoori, always. Moiz said the Tawa would be thinner, which I actually prefer, next time.
I sat at the adjacent table to the chaps who were finishing a kilo of Karahi Gosht. A kilo between four? The Hector had to engage. Their remnants looked as though they had been served something decent. That at least two ended up behind the counter at some point suggests they have their – fingers in the pie – as Curry Bill likes like to put it.
On asking for a jug of water, Moiz brought me a glass bottle of seriously chilled tap water, cutlery wrapped in a napkin, and a glass with a further napkin.
This was a pukka start, and gone hopefully, are the days of plastic cups etc., or is this just a case of – green – woke?
A modest Salad, no Raita, accompanied the meal. The Chapatti was visibly different to that normally served here, holes! Still wholemeal but slightly smaller, this would suffice.
Karahi Lamb
Wot, no karahi? The bowl did look alien. Maybe they have to invest in some karahi.
Topped with a threat of Coriander but copious Ginger Strips and sliced Green Chillies, this Karahi Gosht did look the part.
Bones had not been discussed, but assumed. Karahi Palace have had a policy in recent years of all Lamb Curry being served on-the-bone. How it should be, but those of us who have come to accept this are biased. The added Flavour is significant. Tonight, no Sucky Bones, the marrow from which is the key.
The Meat was delightfully Soft, on the edge of turning to pulp, a feature for which I often congratulate Chefs. The Masala did not seem right at all. A watery residue, not Oil, collected at the base of the bowl.
The Chillies meant that the Spice could only build. The Seasoning was to my liking, and I hadn’t asked. The distinctive Flavours of the – Karahi Palace-Karahi Lamb – were nowhere to be found. The transfer of knowledge had not been a feature of the takeover.
Now the notes become brutal – this is closer to a Spicy Lamb Stew than a Karahi Gosht. Having had the Karahi Gosht at Darbar Grill, the mother shop, this bore no resemblance to that either. There is clearly work to be done here.
A tingly tongue and slivers of Bones marked the end of the meal.
The four chaps had Kashmiri Tea at the end of their meal. Moiz brought me Green Tea, a nice gesture, and thankfully without milk, else I would have been forced to decline.
A cup of Tea at the end of a Curry brings a wonderful Spicy warmth to the roof of the mouth. Something I first learned about the age of seven when having a ‘Scotch Pie’, or – Pie – as we call it in Scotland. Pie, Haggis, Square Slice (Sausage), all – Spicy.
The Bill
£13.00 Prices as advertised, though I had to pay cash, the card payment not being installed yet.
The Aftermath
Firstly, my verdict on the Curry was sought.
Too wet, needs to be drier, and more Methi!
My responsibility – was Moiz’s reply.
So, this place is – his. Quite a responsibility.
The young Chef has recently come over from Pakistan, speaks no English and was previously with them at Darbar Grill. We agreed that – Desi – is what I seek. Chef needs to learn, I seek what he cooked in his Homeland. I had to ask Moiz if he knows of the Spicy Desi Korma, a Curry that had also become a firm Hector favorite at Karahi Palace. The reply was positive, I suggested that he tell me at what point in the future I can order this.
Now to relate what’s happening.
Moiz wants to renovate and change the name to – Mehfil – a gathering, or to entertain, praise someone. I mentioned that pre-Lockdown, Ayaz had plans to up the ambience and have staff in a recognisable uniform. Moiz held up his – Slater’s – bag. He appreciates that if this is – his place – he has to be seen to dress for the part.
Please, no tablecloths!
We went upstairs, possibly the first time I have been up there since – Visit #100. Moiz had found the #100 certificate and also recognised Aqeel from back in the day. The present décor is less – ice-cream shop, but needs a rethink. Gutting this and making the frontage more appealing will require a significant investment, the chaps downstairs? Karahi Palace could have been so much more.
The potential of these premises was inevitably discussed. When the good employees of Barclays are – forced? – to return to their new workplace, then surely lunchtime trade here shall boom. Here is, in effect, a village on their doorstep. Moiz mentioned – wraps – I suggested Scottish Rolls, a la Morton’s!
Lunchtime: Fridays aside (14.00), Mehfil (Karahi Palace) once again opens at noon. The Hector shall soon be back to test this, however, there is another ongoing project.
When I first met Ahmed, Moiz’s father, at Darbar Grill, he knew me from my visits to Sheerin Palace. This was also the case when I first set foot in Shahi Mahal, Zahir also recognised me from Sheerin Palace. The staff at Sheerin Palace tend not to be talkative, evidently they know their customers. So, Ahmed and Zahir worked together for years. I need another couple of worthy visits to get Shahi Mahal into the – Glasgow’s Top Rated – category. That project may well take longer with Mehfil hopefully being open as was stated.
Finally, the elephant missing from the room: it is not for these pages to give personal details, however, Chef Rashid remains in limbo. Getting him back is not impossible, reportedly. If Chef Rashid can be accommodated at the new Mehfil, assuming this name change comes about, then what made Karahi Palace unique in terms of – Flavour – shall be reinstated. With the pedigree of Sheerin Palace and Darbar Grill added to that long established at Karahi Palace, then surely, Mehfil will most certainly be on the Curry map. Hector, Curry-Heute, shall watch and report as and when.