After the outstanding Lams Karahi at Afghan Darbar (Antwerpen), Hector was not ready to return to the Mainstream. Curryspondent Bill had long planted the seed to sample Curry in Southall, to the east of Heathrow Airport, in the Burgh of Ealing. It may be a long way to Tipperary, however, it felt even longer travelling from Crawley to Southall. That the journey was completed in the seemingly endless rain, was not an enhancement. For the last ten days, the Hector appears to have had his own personal rain cloud, faithfully following, and precipitating its menace without mercy. Can we have summer please? It is July, in the northern hemisphere.
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were obligingly in tow, neither had ever been to Southall. Bus 427 took us the three stops from Southall Underground station to within spitting distance of Gifto’s Lahori Karahi (162-164 The Broadway, Southall UB1 1NN England). The rain was relentless, the venue suggested by Curryspondent Bill.
We were greeted at the entrance to the vast eatery, seats upstairs too. With lines of long tables, this was very much in the style of communal eating. Covid screens remained in parts, the only segregation. We were all in it together, families, weans, and the intrepid Curry hounds.
The business end of the menu offered a choice of Peshwari Lamb (£33.50) or Charsi Lamb (£33.50). On the assumption that nothing Afghani would match my recent Lams Karahi, it had to be Peshwari. Maggie’s momentary disappearance did hold up the Order. If she was willing to share the kilo of Peshwari Lamb then the Hector was going to add Karahi Kofta (£12.90). On her return, Maggie was persuaded to let Clive and Hector have the – feast – given her assumption that it would be – too Spicy. Maggie (& Marg) persist with this ritual, both can manage whatever comes, they may not particularly enjoy it, but they can manage. The waiter led Maggie to Karahi Gosht (£12.90) – boneless. Just in case, Maggie mentioned – Yoghurt – to the waiter.
Spice Level was discussed after I mentioned – Asian-style, Desi and Apna.
You want it spicy! – remarked the waiter, duly noted.
With Keema Naan (£4.90) on the menu, this was a given, it’s the first thing Clive asks about when a menu is read to him. I reckoned Maggie and I could share a Butter Naan (£2.30). A jug of tap water completed the Order.
Plates etc. were brought to the table. Two ice-cold sauce bottles, Raita and something fiercer, accompanied. Both remained untouched, as did the large plate of Yoghurt (£2.50) which magically appeared.
From my vantage point I could see the main Chef work his magic at a huge karahi/wok. Whatever – Curry – he was working on was always topped up with a Masala from another karahi – The Big Pot. Given the size of the operation this must have been a necessity. This was Karahi Gosht on an industrial scale, remote from my usual Curry Cafes.
The abundant staff managed to assemble the Order more or less simultaneously. The round Butter Naan was served whole. It had big puffy blisters, this would be enjoyed, an excellent accompaniment, and no Maggie and Hector would not manage it all.
Topped with Sesame Seeds, the thick Keema Naan had been scored in four. The efficacy was bursting through the cuts – brown Mince, none of the pink paste nonsense. Clive would manage all but a scrap. That he can physically eat a Keema Naan alongside, then usually on the completion of his Curry, is a sight to behold. Such was the Keema Naan, I could see Clive sneaking back to Gifto’s for this alone.
Peshwari Lamb
I wasn’t expecting this.
The definite kilo of Karahi was topped with the customary Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies and a sprinkling of Coriander. The Masala was blended and so resembled nothing I associate with the Masala Mash that usually accompanies a Karahi. I shall stop short of – Shorva – but this was a – Soupy Karahi. Farewell to the pristine, white t-shirt.
Clive was ahead of me in declaring the Meat to be Tender. The Lamb fell off the bone with minimal effort, importantly, this Meat was a – giver – of Spice/Flavour. And, for two, there was lots of it, three helpings.
The Masala had a wonderfully rich Flavour, familiar, a blend of Spices I can never achieve, but – Mace – is now known. Will this dramatically alter Hector’s cooking? All Karahi recipes known to Hector include some Yoghurt added towards the end of cooking, today’s Masala was decidedly more – Creamy. Such was the lack of viscosity, I was tempted to note – Mainstream – but didn’t. Now it is written.
The Spice Level built slowly, the Bullet Chillies adding their charm. The Seasoning was commendable, but nobody was shouting – Seasoning – as was the case four days ago in Antwerpen. Yet, the Flavours were pronounced, a fine blend of Spices, both Clive and I were thoroughly enjoying the quantity and quality of what lay before us. Maggie had a Soupçon, brave. The karahi was scraped clean with the spoons, no more Bread could be faced to complete the job.
The denouement: Peshwari Lamb? Had this been served as a Lamb Desi Korma, I could have been in raptures.
Karahi Gosht boneless
With a Thick Masala, fibre rich in Meat pulp, this was more recognisable as – Karahi.
The darker brown suggested less Yoghurt. Quite a portion, I was impressed that Maggie took care of this with comparable ease (no Starter, she’s learning). The Butter Naan did beat us both. A forkful of Masala came my way. If anything this was more powerfully Flavoured, more Seasoned, more Karahi-like.
No Bones.
The verdicts of my fellow diners, Maggie:
I thought mine was going to be less spicy, same as yours. Yours melted in your mouth, mine I had to chew a bit.
No Bones.
Clive:
The Naan was simply the best Keema Naan ever. It slightly overshadowed the meal which was excellent. They must have been cooking the meat for a week.
Nice (?) place, service was good without being intrusive.
The Bill
£56.10 It took some time to find someone wishing to relieve me of the funds.
The Aftermath
Managers were visible sporadically throughout our visit. I had to give the Calling Card to a lesser chap, it was not passed up the chain before our departure, a pity, questions to be asked.
Menu
