The final day in Berlin, returning to Punjabi Zaiqa for another – fix – was always tempting. For the serious, this has to be the #1 Berlin Curry venue. Maintaining the spirit of Curry-Heute, it was time to go exploring again. In the words of a Curryspondent – it’s good that you check out these places so that we don’t have to.
GapShap Indian Restaurant (Güntzelstraße 19, 10717 Berlin Deutschland) was suggested by Bruna who was somewhat miffed that Marg and I went to her local – Chutnify – on Wednesday, without her. She hasn’t been to GapShap, but it had been recommended to her. Located in West Berlin, Charlottenburg & Wilmersdorf to be precise, this is not the side of the city where Hector has found favourable outlets. To date, Punjabi Zaiqa and Chutnify are in a different Berlin League, otherwise, competence may have been over-celebrated elsewhere. Another source suggests that GapShap is an offshoot of the shockingly awful, but seemingly popular – Bahadur – where I had to declare:
If you think that’s Indian food, then you haven’t been to India.
There was a classic case of – Indian Restaurants – serving up what they think the locals can manage. I met a chap at Protokoll earlier in the week who assured me that any – Indian Restaurant – in Berlin that is also a – Cocktail Bar – should be given a wide berth. GapShap identifies as an – Indian Restaurant and Bar.
GapShap – gossip, tittle-tattle, but in the spirit of India, I shall offer – chit-chat – as a suitable translation. Across Europe, and sadly including Blighty, restaurateurs evidently believe that – Street Food – is a selling point, a magnet to those who want to snack, with a cocktail?
My research, prior to our 17.45 arrival, revealed a photo of a seriously Dry Curry and Lamb Chettinad listed on the menu. That was enough to entice. A solitary diner sat near the entrance, two smokers outside. All tables were reserved in the otherwise empty restaurant. We were given a choice of tables. I declined the window table with the open window and the smokers directly outside.
Drinks had to be sorted, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.40) kicked things off. The Curry section of the menu was a realistic length, not pages of endless tweaks of the same Masala one finds across the city. Lamb Chettinad (€18.90) was the initial attraction but was instantly dismissed when Lamb Sukka (€19.90) was spotted. Marg took the Chettinad option, a Curry she knows well. Indian Mango (München) set the standard for this Curry many years ago. For them, Chettinad is not a Soupy Curry, for the rest of Europe, UK included, it appears to be thus.
The Chettinad comes with Rice, the Sukka is served on a Paratha. It is possible that this is Chef’s insurance against peeps trying to have Rice with what is traditionally a Dry Curry in the extreme, but not as served a few weeks back at Spoonful of India (Brussel).
It was Shubham, Mein Host, who took the food Order. Spice level was discussed. He rated the Chettinad as three on a scale of one to five. This suited Marg. Note, in Polska, the scale often goes up to ten, and Polish Curry is sometimes served at eleven.
I can handle more, I am British! – was the Hector method of avoiding any scale that may be associated with Bahadur.
Whilst we waited, and it was a respectable time, we were given a bowl of nibbles. Cubes of Toast, seemingly ordinary, but a delightful new experience. Far from saturated, but certainly – Buttery – subtle Spice and Herbs were in there too, tasty. Knowing that I had Bread coming, restraint was shown. Marg was not for holding back. She offered me the last piece, declined.
Other diners arrived. Each new table occupied had to ask for assistance with the menu. I was amused listening to the English waitress explaining the various Dishes, and Breads in particular, to a German lady who insisted on speaking the Lingua Franca, then translating it back to Deutsch for her companion. Five days in Berlin, I have not spoken Deutsch once. Apparently, the locals still do.
For once, the portion of Basamti was sensible. There would still be some left over such was the nature of what we had ordered.
Lamb Sukka
From the moment it was set on the table, I knew we had authentic Curry. This was seriously – Dry. With a huge pile of Meat in a Minimal Masala, sat atop the Paratha, there was an issue.
How do I eat this?
One cannot scoop up the Meat with the Bread if it’s below the Curry.
With a knife and fork – suggested Marg.
Aye right.
Marg has a preference for Bread, she had Rice, I had a buried Paratha. I tore off the exposed strip of Paratha and passed it across the table, now what?
I had been given a dinner plate, decanting was the solution. A significant proportion of the Minimal Masala had by then, soaked into the Paratha. This left a soggy Paratha and a naked Curry. I took some of Marg’s excess Rice, not what Chef had intended. I stopped counting the Meat beyond double figures, each piece was large. There was also an abundance of Big Onions, usually Marg falls into that trap. This was a lot of eating.
The Paratha may well have been – flaky – as declared, Marg may well verify. I like to – get down and dirty – so tucked in, left hand trying its best to pick up Meat with the limp Paratha, otherwise, spoon in right hand for Curry & Rice.
The Meat was well infused by the Spice. The Spice Level was more than – Medium – not demanding. The Seasoning was decidedly lacking. Still, a good earthy blast of Flavour hit the palate. No smokiness, yet there was a threatening cherry-shaped Red Chilli staring at me. I took a bite, nothing happened, better not to swallow. An even larger Red Chilli crossed the table, this we both avoided. The Big Onions proved to be a distraction from the Meat alone.
With the Thick Masala shrouding the Lamb, there was still enough to declare this Curry to be a fine example of – Sukka. Curry this Dry in Berlin, until today, unheard of. Having eaten loads, I still had five big pieces of Lamb and some Rice to deal with. Time to abandon the remaining Paratha which, by this time, was an unappealing blob.
Marg had allocated me a spoonful of her Masala, I thought this might revitalise what sat before me. Oh, it most certainly did.
Lamb Chettinad
Topped with Ginger Strips and slices of Coconut, the Masala was significantly different from the – Mainstream. There was no Shorva here, this was a decent, Thick Masala. Again, the Meat count reached – plenty.
Marg’s verdict:
It was earthy and full of smokey flavour. The ginger strips and dried coconut made an appealing contrast to the masala. Did not require too much Rice and my small piece of (flaky?) Paratha allowed me to mop up my dish.
As Marg was arranging the Meat and Masala on her Rice, I tried a Soupçon of the Masala. Stunning, a definite – Wow! This Masala was true to Chettinad in terms of Flavour, moderately Spiced, well Seasoned, and the big South Indian Curry blast. The latter marked the contrast to the Sukka.
At the end of the meal, when the spoonful of Masala reached my plate, there was the opperchancity to celebrate further. Firstly, I bit into some Ginger which aroused the palate, then a whole Clove, another – Wow?
This was a Chettinad of pedigree. This was a non-Soupy Chettinad. This was a Chettinad being served in Berlin.
The trek across the city had proved to be a wise decision.
GapShap had earned respect in the city where Curry, apart from the aforementioned, sets low targets.
How was the Chilli? – asked the chap who cleared the table.
I decided you could have it.
Safe.
The Bill
€45.20 (£38.20)
The Aftermath
By the time of payment, I had established that Mein Host was called Shubbam.
Introductions over, it was time to talk – Curry – and the Curry Houses of Berlin. The brackets, showing the number of visits, is as close as Curry-Heute gets to scoring or ranking. I did point towards the bottom of the Berlin Curry House list, where Bahadur sits, and shall remain.
The lack of Seasoning in the Sukka had to be raised, the outstanding Chettinad was complimented. Shubbam told me of special evenings where the food is served on Banana Leaves. Bananas, has Hector’s life not done enough here? The chances of ever experiencing one of these events is remote. Weekends excepted, where noon opening differs, 17.00 does not fit with the pattern of a Hector day in Berlin. Berlin life is in the East. I must try to get back here. Next time, the Lamb Chettinad for Hector. Thereafter, it may be worth exploring the Kashmiri Rogan Josh (€18.90), and if the dreaded Capsicum can be withheld, the Kadhai Gosht (€19.90).
A photo was required, let’s all get in.
GapShap, there is Curry in West Berlin.
2023 Menu
