January 2nd, an opperchancity to wish everyone a Happy New Year, and have the first Curry of 2024. This year Hector plans to report from places even further afield than managed previously, a trip that was shelved due to Covid is finally taking shape.
I’m still waiting for Moiz at Handi by Darbar to declare the former Karahi Palace – open. Any day now…
Having enjoyed the South Indian fayre at Madhras Dosa in recent weeks, there was the realisation that their nearest neighbour – Mother India’s Cafe (1355 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8AD) had not been visited for over two years. Time to rectify.
There was a group of eight or so blocking the entrance when I arrived at 13.30, they waved me through. A table for one was available immediately. The group had to wait, such is the no booking policy at Mother India’s Cafe. I was shown to the same small table in the far room that I have occupied in nearly every visit over the years.
The menu was brought, prices have increased in line with inflation since my last visit in August 2021. However, they are having a laugh with the price of a Chapatti. The former £0.95 charge has increased to £1.75. Anything over a Pound for a Chapatti is considered an outrage in these pages, Aberdoom prices. In a couple of weeks, the Hector will be enjoying three inclusive Chapattis in Bradford. So it goes.
Mein Host took the drinks order immediately. Sparkling Water: £3.50 for a small bottle, £4.95 for the large, a no brainer.
Today’s extra menu had Smoked Keema & Karela (£7.95). Smokiness and Bitterness, that’s some creation. I passed.
For Hector, at Mother India’s Cafe it has to be Machi Masala (£7.95), they set the standard for Fish Curry in this city many moons ago. The avoidance of Capsicum took me to South Indian Ginger Lamb (£8.50) as the second – Tapas – portion. A Paratha (£3.50) completed the Order.
Nothing appears to have changed at Mother India’s Cafe. The tables and decor are as they always have been. Mein Host aside, the staff were all young, and new. It was a chap who brought the Order.
The Paratha was served whole as is preferred. With some bunt blisters and a suggestion of layering, it was ticking boxes. Alas, it had been made from Wholemeal Flour, why?
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Machi Masala
There was certainly more Fish in the portion than there was in the early years at Mother India’s Cafe. With Ginger Strips atop the Thick Masala, all looked well. Hot food and a big Spicy blast, I was off to a good start.
Traces of both Red then Green Capsicum skins would be encountered, needless. The soft, white Fish did retain its integrity. The Masala had a – tang – which was different from the anticipated – citrus. The Seasoning was not prominent, and there was little sense of Fishiness. This Machi Masala was nowhere near as impressive as had here oft.
With abundant Sparkling Water to hand, there was a big rinse of the palate before round #2.
South Indian Ginger Lamb
Wot, no Ginger Strips? It took a while to identify the translucent topping. It had to be Syboes, no Ginger Blast then. The Thick Masala was worryingly similar to the Machi Masala, surely not? On tasting, it did seem a bit Sweeter.
The Meat count increased as I ate, a sixth tiddler was unearthed in time. Two pieces, and a couple of Quid more, then – Tapas – could be abandoned, but clearly that is not the model at this venue.
The soft Lamb was evidently from – The Big Pot. It was not giving anything beyond the taste of the Lamb itself.
With less Spice and still unremarkable Seasoning, there wasn’t much to celebrate here. The dry Red Chilli which has featured in this Curry previously was not present. Nor was any sign of the distinctive South Indian burnt Spice/Coconut, i.e. Smokiness.
Other things were occupying Hector’s mind. Reclassifying Mother India’s Cafe as – Mainstream – was being considered. Neither Masala was particularly impressive. How was I going to finish this second Tapas portion?
Abandoning the Bread is the customary tactic. Today, I was particularity keen to do so. The Paratha had become annoying. Why are Chefs using Wholemeal Flour in Chapattis never mind Paratha? Is it cheaper?
There was the acceptance that I was not tasting my Curry because of the overwhelming Flavour of Wholemeal Flour in the Paratha. No more Paratha, next time a Naan (£3.50).
Another rinse. Hector rarely drinks during the eating of a Curry.
All was not lost. Things did improve, but the Big South Indian Flavours never did materialise. However, the Curry had become much more pleasant, finally a sense of – richness – from the Masala. The bowl was scraped clean as far as the spoon permitted.
Here’s the dilemma. Two Curry Houses in the Kelvin Hall area, both offering South Indian Curry. The Masala at Madhras Dosa is annoyingly – Soupy – but has the required intensity of Flavour, plus there’s their glorious Malabar Parotta. Here the Texture of the Masala is as Hector desires, but if Capsicum keeps sneaking in the choice of which venue to favour becomes simpler. Mother India’s Cafe has ambience. Marg likes ambience. She also has the highest regard for their Butter Chicken (£7.95). It may well be Marg who calls for our next visit to Mother India’s Cafe.
The Bill
£24.90 It’s time Hector crossed the river.
The Aftermath
Mein Host wiped my table as I finished the copious Sparking Water. No recognition, but then visits here are sporadic.
After the last couple of visits I’ve made, I’m no longer a fan of Mother India. Found, like you, that the prices have crept up but I thought that the quality of the food had diminished at the same time. Last visit, I ordered Fish Pakora and instead of the beautiful big flakes/chunks of white fish I was used to, I received shavings of fish and hardly any of them, a bit of a liberty calling it Fish Pakora. I complained, which is something I seldom do, and was refunded the price of the pakora, somewhat reluctantly. Other items were not as good as I remember…
Also noticed the traditional bowl of wee Drumstick lollies that were always on offer at the exit point had disappeared.
Interestingly, there was no queue present on my last couple of visits and there were lots of empty tables. A sign of the austere times or maybe just the austere portions.
I always give a place ‘the benefit of the doubt’ but after the Shaved Fish experience, I decided to go Cold Turkey, and give the place a miss.
Hector replies:
Prices creeping up… you’ll note that my next Curry, had on the Southside, was way better value.
No lollipops, Marg will be distraught!