It’s approaching two months since Hector last had his staple Karahi Gosht, unheard of. In the interim there has been a focus on Desi Korma and South Indian Curry, Chukka in particular. It’s even longer since Hector walked across the Clyde to Tradeston for Lamb Karahi (£12.00) at the former Karahi Palace, now Handi By Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ).
Moiz greeted as I entered at 12.50.
I’m home, yes I regard this as – home.
I took my usual spot in the ground-floor seating area. I have resolved that when dining alone, I shall maintain this favoured seat, upstairs beckons otherwise. With the room to myself, I managed more photos of the ground-floor vista.
The Lamb Karahi was ordered, a Coriander Naan (£2.50) would accompany. Moiz brought the 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.50) as a matter of course. He and Moqeeb got to work.
The cricket was on the TV but was not visible from my corner. As I amused myself otherwise, Moiz presented a complimentary Starter – Chickpeas – was the only clue.
Chana Chaat Masala
The stripes of Tamarind across the Yoghurt/Raita topping had me puzzled for a moment. The appearance was such that this could have been a Dessert. Once I stirred the contents of the plate so I revealed Chickpeas, lots of them, Tomato and Coriander.
Spicy, tangy, refreshing, and with a definite – kick – I recognised the underlying Flavours. I showed Moiz a photo of a box of – Chat Masala – from my own Peanut Masala Chat recipe, he confirmed that this had been used. I suspect some Chilli Powder also. As I departed so the tray of the Chickpea etc. base was on display. Moiz is considering offering this as an alternative to Poppadoms.
I ate about half of the bowl, there had to be room for the main event, especially with a Naan due shortly.
The Coriander Naan was served whole and had the wonderful Herb mixed through the dough before cooking. Light and fluffy, this style of Naan prevails. I shall have to trawl through my own Blog to find the source of the type of Naan I particularly favour. However, I saw this Naan (above right) posted on the wall of a random Curry House in Lisboa last week. This is what the Hector seeks.
Lamb Karahi
The abundant Ginger Strips and loops of a Chilli brought Manchester’s – foliage – to mind. Beneath lay a dark red Masala with pieces of Lamb on-the-bone.
There was a powerful taste of almost burnt Tomato from my first dip of Naan into the Masala. Hot food, I had to tread carefully before risking taking in some Meat. Both the Spice and Seasoning were a la Hector, imposing, but not overwhelming. Beautiful Meat, Moiz and Hector would discuss this further.
There was a sense of familiarity, Karahi has been eaten a hundred times at this locus. It’s as if the Karahi Palace Chefs were still present. Is it the room that creates the special Curry environment? When Moiz approached to ask the customary question, I informed him that I could only pay the ultimate compliment: this Karahi was uncannily close in Flavour to Karahi Palace.
It was as if Chef Rashid had been giving tutorials.
Stirring up the remainder at the halfway point brought out my first awareness of Cloves. My final piece of Meat featured a Sucky Bone, the marrow was suitably acquired. Flavour, such an intensity of Flavour. Whilst Chukka and Chettinad have their merits, authentic Lahori Karahi surely trumps these?
Moiz informed that he cooks the Lamb – with love – to 90% of readiness. There is no Big Pot bubbling away with boiled Lamb all set to go. He spends hours cooking the Lamb to the required standard. His family has a tradition, Moiz is determined to maintain this.
Conversation was ongoing as and when Moiz could make an appearance. It is his hope to concentrate on the cooking and have someone else front of house. He acknowledged the €6.00 Goat Desi Korma meal deal last week in Lisboa. Goat being cheaper than Lamb was mentioned. Maybe we need more Goat Curry in the UK?
Business at Handi By Darbar has been steady. I was informed that most – Scottish – diners refer to these pages. Londoners – as Moiz described them from – Dan Sath – also. The Asians have their own – word of mouth – network.
As I scraped the karahi clean – How was that?
Wonderful!
I was almost ready to leave when – Tea’s coming – was announced.
Unfortunately, it was a milky Tea which came, I had to decline, but fear not, Green Tea soon followed.
I reminded Moiz that for Hector: no Milk, no Capsicum.
The Bill
£16.00 Something familiar appeared on my phone after I paid.
The Aftermath
Since my last visit, a Curryspondent asked about deliveries. A machine is in situ but may not be set up until after Ramadan.
Ramadan, Moiz is going to have a Ramadan Buffet commencing around 18.30 on the first days. Even Takeaway will be included.
The serving of the Buffet will become later each day corresponding with the sunset. There will be the jump of an hour after the last Saturday in March creating a 20.00+ serving.
Booking is advised, and hopefully upstairs will be filled each night.
