Glasgow – Handi By Darbar – By Arrangement

It’s the first week of Ramadan so Moiz, Mein Host at Handi By Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) is opening at a later time this week, however he agreed to open today at 13.30 to feed our – company of five. The last time we five were assembled here was for the Karahi Palace #100. That turned out to be a lengthy visit, fortunately Moiz and his staff were well organised today.

Chef Moqeeb was sweeping downstairs as Hector took refuge from the incessant rain. Moiz was upstairs setting up after last night’s successful Iftari Buffet.

A new Drinks Menu has been printed, Hector’s Sparkling Water (£2.00) has gone up 50p! The rest of The Company would have tap water only. Not that we were skimping, Craig considered the excellent value Chicken Platter (£14.99) but declared that we were here to put money in the till. Starters all round.

Howard, Craig and Hector chose Fish Pakora (£7.95), a favourite of us all and never had at these premises. Yvonne opted for Lamb Seekh Kebab (£4.95) whilst Steve had a traditional Vegetable Pakora (£4.95).

With five diners, three new Dishes make an appearance today in Curry-Heute. For Hector – Achari Gosht Karahi (£15.00) with Brown Rice (£3.95), Craig – Chicken Jalfrezi Handi (£10.00) also with Brown Rice, Yvonne – Chicken Boneless Karahi (£10.00) accompanied by a Chapatti (£1.50). Howard was keen to try the Curry Hector has been recommending for weeks – Lamb Korma Handi (£12.00) with Brown Rice, whilst it was suggested that Steve try the Lamb Karahi (£12.00) with a Naan (£2.00) for comparison purposes. Hector can still taste the ghost of Karahi Palace in the Karahi Gosht, would Steve? Rice with Karahi, Hector? That was always a no-no when Handi by Darbar was Karahi Palace. The feeling was – Achari needs Rice.

Craig negotiated – mild – his customary Baby Curry. We told Moiz of Craig’s famous Curry without Spice at Royal Bengal (Praha) back in 2012.

The Starters arrived in good time. Each was served on a steel tray with Raita and a Chilli Sauce. All but the Vegetable Pakora commanded a modest Salad too.

Fish Pakora

Five bits of Tilapia, not great value, eight quid for not a lot of Fish. Initially I wondered if these were small Fish or strips of a larger one. The latter was the conclusion. Freshly cooked in a spiced batter, there was a good kick, especially when the Chilli Dip was employed. Less shrubbery, more Fish please.

Seekh Kebab

Two Seekh Kebab cut into four pieces. This did appear to be better value.

Lovely Kebab – was Yvonne’s remark later.

Vegetable Pakora

This appeared to be the best deal among the Starters. A dozen or so pieces of Pakora, the dark colour showed they had been well cooked, and probably twice.

Plenty of it. Not fresh, definitely reheated – was Steve’s comment.

There was a loud clatter emanating from the foot of the stairs – he’s dropped all the food! Fortunately for us all, not the case. There is a dumb waiter, but I haven’t seen this being used yet.

The Breads were well received, Yvonne is a fan of Wholemeal Flour, so the Chapatti suited her taste. The Naan was good – Steve would tell me later.

This was the first time I have sampled the Brown Rice at Handi By Darbar, it will not be the last. With Cloves and (Nigella?) Seeds mixed through, this Rice was particularly tasty. The volume was judged correctly, we each managed to clear our plates.

Achari Gosht Karahi

The – portion – has had me asking myself why I hadn’t invested in the half kilo. £23.00 may be the answer. Sharing a kilo (£35.00) is a much better option.

Topped with copious slices of Bullet Chillies, the Spice Level could be managed. The Meat count was into double figures, Lamb on-the-bone, of course, one Sucky. The Masala was sufficient, just enough to have with Rice. The viscosity meant it didn’t all disappear into the Rice.

The Meat was decidedly more chewy than experienced here previously. However, it’s possible that having experienced the outstanding quality of Lamb served at Chimes of India, the difference was noticeable.

This tastes of India – was a remark made out loud at the start. There was something about the blend of Spices which whisked the taste-buds to the east. Cloves and Star Anise were prominent, to what extent the Rice was contributing here was hard to judge, but contribute it did. This was an ideal partnership.

Around the halfway point I remembered I was eating Achari. It is suspected that the Pickle was merely waved over the karahi, much more was required. The level of tanginess was therefore – minimal. Whilst that may have disappointed, the overall Flavours from the Curry still impressed.

Chicken Jalfrezi Handi

Chicken, Jalfrezi, we know what’s coming…

What sort of abomination was this? Craig and Yvonne wind up the Hector oft: a jar of Curry Sauce, poured over Chicken with big pieces of Capsicum and sliced Onions – a favourite – home-cooked – meal. And so, Craig carefully arranged the Capsicum into a pile, the Chicken appeared to be incidental. He loved it, and told us so constantly as he ate. One assumes the Spice Level was a la Craig. Chicken Jalfrezi, it’s on the menu for such peeps.

Very enjoyable, tasty starter and main. Excellent, friendly service – his very words.

Chicken Boneless Karahi

The saga continues. This was the first Chicken Karahi seen at Handi By Darbar, the joy of the fellow diner. It wouldn’t appear otherwise. This was an unusual choice for Yvonne who does like Soupy Curry.

The sliced Bullet Chillies and Coriander sat atop a thick, minimal Masala. What Flavours can one create without Lamb or Bones, I may never establish. The Karahi went down well. Yvonne:

Excellent meal, I really enjoyed it.

Nice chicken, very tender, a good bite to it without being excessively hot.

Lamb Karahi

How often have we had this at these premises? The yardstick. The same Toppings, similar Masala, but now there’s proper Meat.

At the start, Steve was less than impressed, he wasn’t getting much from this creation. In time, he mellowed, the situation improved, he got it. Steve:

Flavoursome, the meat was slightly tough, not as intense as previously.

I did point out that since the days of Karahi Palace, he has been used to the Hector tweaks – more Methi, more Seasoning. Note to Moiz.

Lamb Korma Handi

This may well be be Hector’s favourite – Curry. Stewart and Hector shared the kilo here last month, do read that review.

Having starved himself for many hours beforehand, Howard was hungry. On seeing the portion, I suspect he too may have appreciated the half kilo. Had the Achari not been the distraction, we could have shared the kilo. One day we shall. Howard wrote this:

The revamped and renamed premises met expectations. Unusually for me I had a starter and a main with rice. The starter was fish pakora which is difficult to get wrong. This was good. My main was Lamb Korma Handi with brown rice. Most of the lamb was chewy but I’m fine with that. What stood out was that the lamb had flavour which is not always the case. For some reason I was reminded of a white (pepper) karahi. I will soon be told if I’m very wrong. The brown rice had flavour and was a satisfying accompaniment. Overall an enjoyable experience.

Namkeen Karahi, we haven’t had that for ages.

Moiz accepted the praise that was forthcoming, five happy diners. The hand wipes were accompanied by mint creams. Not ordinary mint creams as it happened: Elizabeth Shaw peppermint cream. Yvonne was well impressed:

I recommend this restaurant!

The Bill

£108.10   Five, Starters, five Mains.

The Aftermath

It was Moqeeb who took the payment, Moiz had popped out. Therefore it was just as well that I had advised him earlier that this would be my last visit for some time. The location of the Curry in a week’s time may well surprise.

Update – October 17, 2024

This would turn out to be Craig’s final appearance in Curry-Heute.