Curry-Heute, the fourteenth anniversary. My thanks to all those who continue to read this Blog, and especially to Neil who does the proof-reading. As I write Neil has figuratively reached Australia, so it will not be long before he is correcting any typos there. Meanwhile, Neil may well be over-worked with the mass of writing ongoing in Bier-Traveller.
Today sees Hector’s first ever Curry in New Zealand. With all of Auckland to choose from and probably only one opperchancity, it had to be got right. Des Traditions (54 Stoddard Road, Mount Roskill, Auckland 1041 New Zealand) is nominally a Middle Eastern restaurant, the menu suggests it’s from beyond the Mediterranean. The online description of the – Lamb Karahi Platter – (NZ$68.95) intrigued. Was it possible that Des Traditions were offering Desi Karahi Gosht when no other restaurant in Auckland was coming close?
Marg and Hector are guests of Alison (& Steve) whilst in Auckland. In 2015, Alison appeared in Curry-Heute when Hector was charged with cooking Chicken Korma. It Happens. Alison was happy to drive us to Mount Roskill, to the south of the CBD, for a 14.00 Curry. We were to be joined by Charlie, a former colleague whom Marg and Hector have not seen since 2001. Such catching-up is Marg’s primary objective for our time in New Zealand. For Hector, the song remains the same, however, opperchancities may be limited due to … we’ll see.
Charlie was not up for anything – Spicy. He admitted to having – a vanilla palate – a self deprecating term never heard before. I may well use this again. Lamb Kabsa (NZ$25.95) appeared to be suitable. My first meal in Agadir was – Kabsa – this Arab Dish has therefore appeared previously in Curry-Heute.
For Alison, gone are the days of eating dairy or gluten. Bread was out, sauces too risky, a Grill was the safest route: Charcoal Kashmiri Lamb Shish (NZ$29.95).
We waited to be served, why our water was so quick to bring the menus but slow to take the Order did puzzle. With my back to the counter I was unaware of the – Order here – sign until Alison pointed it out. We approached the counter, Alison to verify her dietary requirements could be met, the Hector to ensure a kosher Karahi Gosht. Alison was happy, Hector showed photos of Capsicum and was assured that these would not appear. Also, photos of Karahi from Yadgar (Glasgow, Scotland) were shown to verify that this was – in the style. The Lamb Karahi Platter was duly ordered, Marg would share. If this really fed three there could be a Doggy Bag.
The chap, later identified as Awais, came over to the table having been to the kitchen. He was here to ensure that Alison would not be having any of the Bread. Just the five Naan (NZ$2.95) were included with the Karahi Platter. He then brought warm plates with a Modest Salad atop.
Charlie aside, Des Traditions was empty on our arrival. A group of Arab-clad chaps entered during our wait. The waiting time was appropriate for the Order, encouraging.
In good time, Awais assembled the food on the table. The Naan was last to arrive. Five, halved, lightly coloured, risen fluffy, puffy, these were close to the lovely Bread served in the Athena Curry Cafes. Always a treat. Between us, we would manage to eat four.
*
*
Charcoal Kashmiri Lamb Shish
Two days ago, Alison served us her own Lamb fried in Moroccan – Ras El Hanout – then dipped in – Dukkah. Dukkah, a blend of Nuts and Spice was a revelation, and will be the first thing sourced on my return to Blighty. If this Lamb Kebap tasted anything like as good, she was on to a winner.
Bigger pieces of Lamb than are served at home, and in keeping with what Alison had served, the portion was substantial. The Salad looked nothing special and the Rice was not excessive. Whether the accompanying Dips were both dairy-free and gluten-free was never established. Alison trod carefully and there was no reaction afterwards. She cleared her plate.
Catered for dairy and gluten free, unexpectedly delicious. I’ll definitely come back again.
Lamb Kabsa
The Rice Salad and Dips were as the Lamb Kebap. Here, however, was a totally different style of Lamb. This could have been slow baked, boiled even. There was a lot of Meat and on-the-bone. Hopefully the sprinkling of Coriander was not the first introduction of a Herb.
Charlie took care of what lay before him.
The lamb was lovely and tender, quite subtle flavours.
I invited Charlie to sample the main event, this he did with gusto, it was he who enabled us to reduce the pile of Naan.
*
Lamb Karahi Platter
Given the price and the description, this had to be the full kilo and served on-the-bone as Karahi Gosht should be. The Toppings of Ginger Strips, Coriander and slices of three different Chillies made the Hector feel at home. The Masala was clearly Tomato-based, this was the definitive Karahi, its efficacy not in doubt.
Again, the Meat was way larger than would be served in the UK, maybe we have to learn to demand this. Ribs, Big Bones and a Sucky Bone, the Hector was in his element. The Lamb, Tender as Tender can be, finger food, great fun. Pre-cooked of course, there was no sign of it having being grilled. Had it been boiled then this was not so apparent either. Regardless, the Meat was in the – giving of Flavour – camp.
The Seasoning was well within acceptable parameters, the Spice Level not a challenge. All the correct Spices must have been present, the blend of Flavours was spot on. The sometimes overwhelming – Charsi – Flavour was possibly there due to the Tomatoes, but was not overwhelming. This was sheer joy, and I let everyone around the table know it, however, Marg was already ahead of the game.
You’ll like this – declared Marg before I had a chance to start. She wasn’t wrong. It may well be hard to match this level of excellence in the remainder of our trip, but who knows? The standard has been set.
The meat was tender and bursting with flavour. The spice caught me by surprise but I soon grew accustomed to the stimulating tastes. Enjoyed the warm, fluffy Naan Bread, a remarkable dish.
This portion may well have been intended for three. If one eats – Asian style – i.e. Bread with Karahi, then it would have been so. It was clear that Marg and Hector would finish the Karahi. Being magnanimous, Charlie was invited to join in towards the end game. Having got – the taste – he took some of the remaining Naan and wiped the sides of the karahi clean.
Neither Marg or I could have gotten there, stuffed already. Charlie was able therefore to add more words:
I would have preferred the hosts’ food, not too hot for my vanilla palate. Maybe not, the yoghurt pot goes well with the Karahi.
Sitting beside Charlie, I was not aware, but Marg watched the sweat erupt on his brow.
Vanilla Palate – I like this. Is he/she related to Caspar Milquetoast?
I went up to pay. I had to ring the bell to attract attention.
The Bill
NZ$126.72 (£60.56)
A meal for four, no frills, no drinks other than the tap water provided.
The Aftermath
My enjoyment was relayed as I presented the Calling Card. This may well have led to the most enthusiastic response on this trip to date. My reference to Karahi Gosht raised a smile of acknowledgment. Introductions made, Awais went to the fridge to present Dessert. Alison took one home even though she knew she could never have it.
If there is to be only one Auckland Curry reported in Curry-Heute, then Des Traditions will forever have the honour.
2024 Menu
