Lamb Desi Korma, without doubt, Hector’s favourite Curry. With the outstanding example at Curry Leaf (Albany NY, USA), a mere eight days ago, foremost in mind for Curry-Heute, Hector set out this Monday lunchtime. The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) is where the Hector ended up, but only after finding Handi By Darbar, along the street, to be closed. The non-reliability of opening times there has proved to be frustrating in recent times. The Village is always open early afternoon.
Entering The Village at 13.05, there was a momentary wait to be seated in the near empty restaurant. Mr. Baig, Mein Host, joined me at my table, it would be a further ten minutes or so before the Order for Lamb Desi Qorma (£12.95) on-the-bone with Mushroom Rice (£3.50) would be placed.
Mr. Baig was aware of Hector’s – Grand Trip – either via a certain social medium or in following these pages. I didn’t know he did so. Today is Village #97, #100 is looming, a presentation can hopefully be arranged.
The precarious status of restaurants across the city was raised by Mr. Baig. Despite an imminent drop in fuel prices, many are locked into contracts and are bleeding cash, whilst fuel company shareholders cream off the outrageous profits. So it goes.
There is scaffolding shrouding the original Village building. I was informed it is being converted into flats. Oh to live there. Mr. Baig, the landlord, another source of income at least.
Subdividing the dining area to create a function suite was mooted. Then the big issue, Buffet. When The Village hosts a Ramadan Buffet the place is always stowed. I suggested that if this was always available it would lose its charm.
Punjabi Specials – were mooted, but then how would we know what was on? Paya and Haleem they can keep. Mr. Baig accepted that the majority of customers still seek the lesser Chicken Tikka Masala and its variants.
This is why I write Curry-Heute – I assured him – to make people aware that there is so much better to be had.
As he took his leave, I heard Mr. Baig say – Desi – to the waitress. And so the Order was placed. Poppadoms were declined.
Do I have to ask for Desi when I order a Desi Korma? – I had to ask. The waitress confirmed that she had been pre-warned — he told me.
A jug of chilled tap water was duly provided. I was keen to taste this. Fortunately the Southside bleach contamination of ’23 appears to have dissipated, writes the man who just returned from the land of bleached Chicken.
Whilst I waited, there was communication from Moiz of Handi By Darbar. Their current opening time has changed to 15.00. Ah well, Hector will not be visiting this up and coming venue for the foreseeable. In the same direction lies the new premises for Namak Mandi, still to be reviewed. To the west is DumPukht Lahori, again visits there are restricted due to a later opening time.
Nelson Street, what a Curry axis this is, but currently not achieving its potential yield at lunchtimes. If only the theoretical thousands employed in the new Barclay’s building were made to go to work.
The annoying bowl has been dispensed with. Hector was presented with a proper plateful of Mushroom Rice. The treated Rice is another source of Flavour, more on this below.
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Lamb Desi Qorma on-the-bone
Topped with Ginger Strips and Fresh Coriander leaves and stems, the ratio of Meat to Masala looked appropriate. No Soup here. The Masala looked menacing, suitably Thick, only a hint of Oil separating on the periphery.
As I covered the Rice, so the Meat count reached double figures, only the two large, Lamb-enshrouded bones. No Sucky Bones.
Curry Leaf (Albany NY, USA) set a new standard with their Punjabi Korma, now the Hector was faced with a dilemma. Was the the magnificence of the Desi Qorma down to the sinuses having cleared, or was today’s a step above what is typically served here?
The Seasoning was wild, way above what some might find comfortable. Perfect for Hector, consequently, the Flavours of this Desi Korma were erupting on the palate.
Cloves, I saw none, I tasted many. A Green Cardamom was unearthed, as were two semi-spherical, the heart skipped a beat, not more disintegrating dentistry, – Peppercorns, yay! Whole Spices, the sign of pedigree.
Quality Lamb, easy to spot after a diet of Goat in recent times. As Tender as Lamb can be, and critically, giving back the Flavour of the Spices. There was a grittiness in the Masala, the Coriander Stems, a variety of Textures. With the Masala Spices absorbed by the Mushrooms, another source of intense Flavour, another Texture. Then there was the extra boost from whatever had coloured the Rice. It was all happening here.
In passing, Mr. Baig asked – is it alright?
It’s all about the Seasoning, if you don’t get this right, you have nothing. This is wonderful!
The retained Masala was called upon, the final grains of Rice needed sauce. Every grain was managed, the ideal quantity, an empty plate ensued.
Curry-Heute does not give scores, comparisons are unavoidable.
Curry Leaf’s Punjabi Korma was reckoned to become the Curry of ’24, The Village’s Desi Qorma was served – on-the-bone. Draw your own conclusion.
Mr. Baig took the payment.
The Bill
£16.45. I’ll give a contribution towards the gas bill.
The Aftermath
We looked out the window, this downpour was not forecast. It soon cleared. Welcome home.
