Does Glasgow’s city centre need another South Indian Restaurant? Well it has one.
Madurai (The Exchange Building, 142a St. Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5LQ), a few doors down, is in direct competition to the long established Banana Leaf, nearby Rishi’s Indian Aroma and the excellent Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen. Madurai, a street level restaurant, opened a few weeks back whist the Hector was otherwise occupied. A veritable cluster of South Indian Curry Houses has now evolved west of Central Station.
Madurai opens daily at noon (Sundays, 13.00) and remains open throughout the afternoon. On such a prime site, one block from Central Station, there is no point being closed mid-afternoon. This of course suits Hector’s preferred eating pattern.
Arriving at 13.05, four ladies occupied two window tables, another solo diner was sat beyond the flowers. The long dining room created the impression of being relatively narrow, the bar at the far end may or may not be licensed. One would assume it is, but only soft drinks were offered. A jug of water was requested, a glass granted.
The menu has only two Lamb Curry options: Mappas (£14.95) and Inji (£14.95). Chutta Monkfish (£21.95) in the – Grill – section is the only main course Fish option. Having been – Around the World in 80 Days – and yes I will keep referring to this until I don’t, why is that only in the UK is Fish more expensive than Meat? Are we not surrounded by – Fish?
Inji Lamb was the more attractive of the Lamb Dishes, it didn’t mention – Coconut. However, – Paprika infused – had to be investigated.
Will I see any Capsicum?
It was suggested that I should not, but Chef would be advised of my preference.
To accompany, Masala Rice (£4.95) was considered, but I settled for Basmati (£3.25).
The waiter drew my attention to the lunchtime Thali (£14.95), available until 15.00.
Is it the same size of Curry?
No.
Hector was here to appraise the Curry, as much of it as possible.
The young waiters would prove to be both attentive and informative.
I took in my surroundings. The instrumental synth-music felt a bit tame, repetitive. Maybe Glasgow Curry Houses are not ready for – Klaus Schulze – the Maestro. Behind me, the ladies were finishing their Thali.
Very **** – was the verdict of one.
QED.
The Rice portion appeared to be minimal, served in a seemingly small metal pot. How deceptive this was. Quite a plateful, Hector would eventually accept defeat.
Inji Lamb
The Ginger Strip garnish also featured a solitary Curry Leaf, more would be unearthed. As he placed the karahi on the table, the waiter checked that I had no issue with – Black Pepper.
Only Green, it is my opinion that Capsicum should be nowhere near Curry.
Eleven pieces of Meat were arranged on the Rice. Not a huge portion, city centre prices. The Masala impressed visually, this was proper Curry, not the thin Shorva as served at Banana Leaf. By retaining my usual half of the Masala in the karahi, here was a suitably Thick, Dry Curry. For years I have been asking why I could not have such a South Indian Curry.
Powerful Flavours are what is associated with South Indian Curry, the anticipated – smokiness – was there, a distinct – Pepperiness – too. Two major positives, there had to be a negative. There was more than a sense of – Cream – yet the rich, dark colour had masked this. The jury was out on whether the Lamb was giving more than just – meatiness. Initially, I felt there was Spice coming back, latterly not.
As the Curry Leaves were set aside, does anyone eat them, so a Green Cardamom was revealed. Whole Spice, another positive.
Meat and Masala, no Interesting Vegetable, I couldn’t have managed any more food, but had I been dining with company, maybe a share of Spinach Kilangu (£9.95) would have complemented the Curry – Potato! Meat and Masala, I have to admit that the Thali option would have offered more Diversity. Two meat curries – do Madurai determine what these are, or could one choose two Lamb?
The appetite was sated, I was eating an hour before the preferred time, the – creaminess – was also taking its toll. Time to stop.
The table was cleared, another waiter came to wipe it.
I don’t think I’ve made any mess.
The Bill
£18.20 I could have had the introductory offer : Two Course Lunch (£9.95).
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was presented to the senior waiter. Unlike Banana Leaf, the Hector was not recognised on Visit #1, are all the staff new to this work?
The viscosity of the Masala was praised, but I had to state that for me, the Creaminess had been overdone. Coconut Milk – was the explanation, ah Coconut. He went on to mention that all their food is – gluten free, and they can cater for vegans. If/when Alison (Auckland) comes back to Glasgow, Madurai will be the venue. No dairy?
Hector will be back, two Starters might make a sufficient meal. Fish Croquettes (£6.95) must be worth a try, Lamb Ulathu (£6.95) sounds like a Sukka/Chukka, a Hector favourite.
Curryspondent John, over to you…
2024 Menu
