Glasgow – Kinara – The Hanging Gardens of King Street

Kinara (10 King Street, Glasgow G1 5QP) is the latest addition to the Merchant City’s Curry scene. Kinara has been in business for two months having replaced the Russian cafe/restaurant at this locus. Russia not too popular then? And given what happened to Trump this evening, maybe he’s not too popular either.

Trongate was mobbed this Saturday lunchtime, scantily clad peeps heading towards Glasgow Green for a music fest. Then there was those who like to march for whatever reason. Kinara provided refuge at 13.30.

Two diners were sat at the window, the Hector was directed to the corner table. Two more couples would subsequently arrive, all of us window dressing. The décor at Kinara is truly imaginative, the hanging garlands took me back to Hawaii. With the interior of the restaurant being empty, this presented the perfect opperchancity to capture the vibe.

Two waiters were on duty, Adnan and his trainee assistant. The main menu was brought then the Pre-Theatre (£17.99). There, I got as far as – generous chunks of peppers and onions. No way, Pedro. Sparkling Water (£2.50) was sorted immediately, a 330ml bottle accompanied by a posh glass with ice.

Prior research had flagged Lamb Nilgiri Korma (£16.95). Unusually this featured – fenugreek. With a photo of a Desi Korma ready, I would enquire if this was the ubiquitous creamy affair or Hector’s favourite Curry.

Adnan was decidedly gushy. Asking how my day had been so far, and do I live locally, was a bit OTT. The Curry would determine the quality of my day.

The Korma may have had Methi, but was declared – Creamy. This left Lamb Kala Bhuna (£16.95) or Kashmiri Rogan Josh (£16.95). Adnan insisted that as the Chef is from Kashmir, the Rogan Josh would particularly impress. It was established that no Capsicum would appear in my Curry. There was no discussion about Spice Level.

Does that mean he can’t cook a Bhuna? – was my somewhat flippant reply.

The description of the Rogan Josh was not giving much away. Was this what Hector considers to be the traditional Tomato-rich version or the Creamier one which contemporary venues now serve? I would take the risk.

How did I miss the Mangalore Goat Kari (£16.95). Served on-the-bone, this had Curry for Hector written all over it. Next time.

Mushroom Rice (£4.95) would accompany. Almost a fiver for Rice, what is happening? Merchant City, Merchant City prices, no wonder the Hector is rarely seen in this area.

Having waited some forty five minutes for the food to be served at Rehmat’s Restaurant (Aberdeen) midweek, today’s did arrive a bit too soon. The Curry was served on a flat plate, the Rice in a bowl, what is one meant to do in such a situation?

Kashmiri Rogan Josh

Seven pieces, just, of Meat sat in a reddish brown, rich-looking, Thick Masala. There was no sign of Tomato or Cream in the blended Masala. This was a different take on Rogan Josh. There wasn’t very much of it, 5p short of seventeen quid, the Hector was far from impressed. To make room for the Rice, I scraped the Curry to one side of the plate. This only highlighted how little food I had been given for £21.90.

The Mushroom Rice had not been spiced as is the custom I have come to expect. So, plain Basmati with Mushrooms and Syboes, about half a plateful, even less, as is poignantly shown.

Sampling the Rice first only highlighted the plainness of the Basmati. The sliced Mushrooms and Syboes would provide a variety of Textures, but not a lot.

There was an unexpected Tanginess from the Masala, not as strong as an Achari, but definitely zesty. The Spice would build, the Seasoning was lacking. Maybe the piquant nature of the Masala compensated.

The Meat was super-Tender. Other than its own Meatiness, no other Flavour was being emitted. With no Whole Spices, there was no debris to be set aside. In time, Cloves emerged on the palate, the only sense of familiarity in this otherwise decidedly Mainstream Curry.

Towards the end, Adnan came over to ask the customary question qualified with – No Capsicums, right?

Adnan was serving other customers as I approached the counter to pay. The assistant waiter also asked how I had enjoyed my meal. I managed to raise an – OK.

There was of course nothing wrong with my meal other than its lack of volume.

I can get twice as much food for half the money across the river.

The Bill

£24.40

The Aftermath

With Adnan back to take payment, the Calling Card was issued. Being open for only two months, he stated that they are happy to listen to pointers. The low level of Seasoning had to be mentioned. My preference for Whole Spices being present was also mentioned, but that’s Chef’s choice.