Horsham – Chak De India – Tears In My Eyes

Hector is Dan Sath for a few days, resident at Chez Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley. Whilst a Crawley Curry is likely, today Clive was keen to try a new place in Horsham. Horsham has an abundance of Curry Houses, Chak De India (16 Bishopric, Horsham RH12 1QN England) appears to offer something different. That the Hector spotted five tempting options is quite a feat for the menu in a Mainstream Curry House.

Crossing the threshold at 18.45 this evening became quite an emotional moment for Clive. This building was long used as the King & Barnes shop, the actual brewery being located behind. Closed some thirty years, Clive still misses the traditional English ale formerly produced here.

We were shown to a corner table in the far corner of the room adjacent to the bar. Being in the shade did not suit Clive who asked for a window seat. The extra light would enhance his chances of finding the food on his plate.

With no Keema Mutter on the menu, Clive chose his eternal fallback Chicken Parsee Dhansak (£10.50) with a Keema Naan (£3.95). Also under – House Specials was Lahori Karahi (£11.95). The words – truly – and – authentic – had been used in the description, this would be challenged.

Meanwhile, under the banner – Presidential Chef’s Specials – was Lal Maas (£12.95), quite a rarity, and a particular Hector favourite, enjoyed over the early visits to The Village (Glasgow).

The description for the Lamb Chettinad (£12.95) had the juices flowing already.

Home Style Fish Curry (£13.95) was also considered. Why is Fish generally more expensive than Meat in the UK?

Railway Lamb (£12.95) appeared to have everything except being offered – on-the-bone.

Choices, choices.

Ritu, our young and charming waitress, would look after us this evening. With the photo of an – authentic Lahori Karahi – at the ready, I asked Ritu if Chak De India were serving this, or the fated Mainstream version with Big Blobs of Onion and Capsicum. She consulted a superior who came over and confirmed the latter.

So not authentic then – I made clear to them both.

When I chose the Lal Maas, Ritu visibly balked. The two Chilli rating may have had something to do with this. It was confirmed that I would not see any Capsicum. A Mushroom Rice (£3.95) would accompany. A jug of tap water completed the Order.

Chak De India is a two room restaurant. The bar is housed in the room to the left as one enters. Whilst some were sat here, the majority of the customers were housed in our room to the right. Simply decorated, the elephants on the wallpaper were the concession for creating the sense of an Indian restaurant.

Hot plates were brought at 18.13, the food soon after.

The Mushroom Rice was as hoped for. Properly Spiced Rice with plenty of fresh Mushrooms. When done right, this can add so much to a Curry.

The Keema Naan was served quartered. Risen and puffy, the exterior ticked the boxes. On peeling a section open, the dreaded pink Donner-like Meat was found, not the individual grains of brown Mince which are preferred. Nevertheless, Clive would demolish the lot.

Parsee Dhansak, Chicken

A sprinkling of Coriander leaves and stems topped what to the Hector, appeared to be quite a wet Dhansak. Large pieces of Chicken protruded through the mass of Daal Masala.

Not a Curry the Hector is ever going to order, a Side Daal, however, is another matter. A Daal Makhani is long overdue making another appearance in these pages. One thing is certain, Clive knows his Dhansak:

A Dhansak exactly as it should be. Slightly sweet, slightly hot, well balanced. Huge portion of Chicken, very tender, a lot of it.

The Naan was was too hot to touch on arrival. What you’d expect a Naan to be, unremarkable, did what its meant to deliver.

Lal Maas

The added menace of the whole, dried, Red Chilli sitting atop the viscous, blended Masala was a good touch. The Meat count reached twelve, mostly large pieces, as they were arranged on top of the Mushroom Rice.

This Curry was saying – vicious. There was therefore no surprise when the Spice Level registered so highly on the palate. The Seasoning, significantly less so. The Tender-firm Lamb was not giving much Flavour back. The land of the Mainstream, it’s a pity one has to accept this as the norm.

A super-rich Tomato Flavour is what was anticipated. Perhaps the extreme Spice was masking this. The first Flavours to emerge were from the Mushrooms and Onions in the Rice. A solid, pod-like, Spice was unearthed. Cardamom, possibly Star Anise. This and the Red Chilli were giving the Curry pedigree.

In time, the Tomato Flavour came across. Despite the tears in the eyes, from this Vindaloo strength Curry, the taste-buds were recovering. More Seasoning would have brought this forward. Mango, Mango Chutney, was being sensed, the road to Patia/Chasni.

Ritu came over to ask the customary question. She confirmed that there was no way she could have eaten this Lal Maas. Why was it served with so much heat? The Village’s version was never this challenging. Still, the Hector was up for it, every morsel on the plate was eaten. As for the bowl in which it was served, Clive wiped this clean with his remaining Naan. He too was amazed by the level of Spice.

Visits to Horsham tend to be part of stays in Crawley, so a return to Chak De India is likely. There are other Dishes to tempt. But truly authentic Lahori Karahi, come on, do the research.

The Bill

£31.35 Decent portions at a decent price.

The Aftermath

Even though the menu was covering such a range of Curry from across the Indian Subcontinent, the Hector still had the feeling that Chak De India could well be a Nepalese managed establishment. There is a tendency not to rush towards these, too many bland encounters. Chak De India may well become the exception.