A day in Köln, the only one planned for 2024. Having been other places this year, cramming in the annual rituals is currently underway. As with yesterday at Madina (Düsseldorf), the plan was to avoid Mainstream German Curry Houses. Back in 2022, Marg and Hector visited Anna Lakshmi Restaurant (Thieboldsgasse 101, 50676 Köln, Deutschland), the Fish Curry Masala (€10.00), served as part of a Thali, proved to be a worthy meal. There was a declared intention to return for the Lamb Filet Curry (€10.00).
As I approached Lakshmi, I spotted another Curry outlet on the parallel street, not previously known. Chai & Coffee turned out to have the full Mainstream menu. Desi Food Indian Restaurant – it proudly claimed. I saw nothing to convince me that was so.
Vielleicht eines Tages…
Entering Lakshmi at 12.40, the aroma of burnt Spice hung in the air, a classic sign of Sri Lankan fayre. Anna was sitting in the far corner, the single diner was finishing his Thali. The menu was already on the table, same as 2022, no price increase. How many Curry Houses have not increased their prices in the last year, never mind nearly two?
On the assumption that Lamm Cutlet (€14.00) could be even better, I asked for this. Nein. Lamm Filet Curry it would be. A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (€2.00) completed the Order. The conversation, mostly one way, so maybe not strictly speaking a conversation, was in Deutsch. Anna manifestly has less English than Hector has Deutsch.
As ever, there was time to take in the surroundings. A Curry Cafe would be an appropriate description, there’s nothing grand enough here to meet the definition of – restaurant. The décor is old, worn, tired. Maybe they’ll give the place a makeover when the prices inevitably rise.
On visit #1 I spent my time trying to see into the kitchen. Maybe this was here then, maybe not, if so, how did I miss it? What appeared to be part of the tail section of a Luftwaffe Flugzeug was hanging from the ceiling. Nice.
Anna brought the food. On anticipating the need for – Scharf – she said she would bring something which sounded like – apple sauce.
Lamb Filet Curry
As is ever the case in Europe, the Basmati was the dominant feature on the tray. The Curry was decidedly Lamb Shorva, as thin and watery as a Masala could be.
The Lamb had been cut Bradford-small, the quantity was therefore difficult to judge. The Hector was not about to go hungry, there was a fair pile of food here.
The piece of Poppadom was set aside, there were more interesting things to deal with. Top right was the same watery Daal as served in visit #1. Centre, an Aloo portion with the same Shorva as the Lamb. Indeed, there was a sizeable piece of Potato in with the Lamb Curry, so an Aloo Gosht then. Finally, what I took last time to be – Tarka – if it was not Onion based then I know not what this was. However, the first Soupçon of the – Tarka – immediately impressed, this was the source of the most potent Flavour on the tray.
The accompanying small bowl had another version of the – Spicy Sod – plus pieces of Green Chilli just in case that wasn’t deadly enough, more Tarka, then Yoghurt, the means of diffusing the situation. Spice Level could be adjusted, with care, to one’s own desire.
With the Lamb Curry spread across the left hand side of the Basmati, the Shorva mostly disappeared. That which remained, bottom left, would take patience to relocate. There was enough to confirm that the Seasoning here was definitely low. Having already established that this was not the major source of Flavour before me, I was left to wonder. In 2003, Marg and Hector toured Sri Lanka. Curry three times a day was the Hector plan, reduced to two because even this Curry-hound had his limits. I became used to the rich, powerful burnt Spice and Coconut Flavour that prevails across that nation. This Lamm Curry came nowhere near the level of expectation.
Whole Spices, a Bay/Curry Leaf was the only solid other than the Meat. Whilst the Lamb was Tender towards chewy it was giving back no more than just its meatiness. The Oily Shorva with the Lamb and the Potato both had the same bitterness. Seasoning remained the major issue. The overall Flavours were no more than – gentle. Time for a new approach, if it’s good enough for Clive…
The hardly touched Daal, I’ll eat it, but rarely do, was arranged over the remaining Meat. A Daal Gosht was thus created. Better, marginally.
Cold food, an inevitability, spoiled the end game. I prefer a plate to a metal tray.
There was nothing here not to like, it simply could have, should have, been so much more.
The Bill
€12.00 (£10.11) Cash only.
The Aftermath
I had to ask about the tail-plane. If I understood correctly, it came from what was the bar next door. So how did it get there?
Lakshmi is a four minute walk from one of Hector’s favourite Köln watering holes – Reissdorf – where we were meeting at 14.00. How did that happen?
2024 Menu
