On Monday, I offered The Carnoustie Two, the option of a visit to Handi By Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ), instead, Akbar’s was chosen. Today, I gave Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley no choice, the Hector had decided, this is where we were going. I had advised Moiz, Mein Host, that we should arrive by 20.00, just in case he fancied an early night. It was 19.30 when we took refuge from the approaching storm that Glasgow is due to experience this weekend.
Rahman was sweeping the floor in the empty downstairs eating area as we entered. Moiz was in his customary spot behind the counter. He told me that he would be on cooking duties this evening, Rahman would look after us. It is four months since I ate here, the current opening hours simply do not suit my days out in Glasgow. Today was different.
I would see you more often, but you only work (open) part time.
I had to get my dig in. Moiz said he is reviewing the situation. If only the promised thousands at the nearby Barclays complex would go back to work in their custom built office space.
We headed upstairs, the room was empty. A table was chosen mid-room.
I read the Handi section of the menu to Clive with an emphasis on the kilo of Lamb Korma Handi (£32.00). He wasn’t taking the hint. However, Marg stepped up, announcing that even if Clive and I were to share the kilo, she would have a portion (£12.00). I suspect seeing the pleasure this Curry gave the Hector recently at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) was enough to get her on board.
Even Daal Gosht Handi (£12.00) did not tempt Clive, was it the suffix which was confusing/misleading him? Maggie too was unsure what to have. Maybe I should draw pictures? It was time to play the ace. I read the details for both Chicken Platter (£14.99) and Lamb Platter (£18.99), sold.
Maggie chose the inclusive Roti, Marg ordered one too (£1.50). Clive asked that his inclusive Naan be a Garlic Naan (£2.50).
Rice always feels the best accompaniment for a Desi Korma. Brown Rice (£3.95) was not available, Marg suggested we share Veg Fried Rice (£7.95), perfect.
Jugs of tap water proved to be sufficient liquid for three of us, not Marg. Marg never passes up the opperchancity to have Masala Tea (£2.50). This caused some confusion.
Moiz has occasionally presented Hector with Tea at the end of a meal, Tea without milk. Rahman came back upstairs to ask if Marg wanted milk – and sugar! – she added.
This was Clive and Maggie’s first visit to Handi By Darbar, I related how the premises have changed hands twice since the halcyon days of Karahi Palace, and that I have known Moiz since he was a young teenager, helping at his father’s Curry Cafe on Allison Street – Darbar Grill. Mr. Ahmed has been teaching the next generation how to cook, and to great effect, given the quality of food served at these premises.
The – Starters – element of the Platters duly arrived.
Lamb Platter
Chicken Platter
For Clive, two Lamb Chops and two pieces of Lamb Tikka. For Maggie, Two pieces of Chicken Tikka and a Chicken Seekh Kebab, halved. Somehow, Maggie found the Raita to be Spicier than the Chilli Sauce, very strange. Clive was well impressed by his meat offerings. That he compared them to The Downsman (Crawley) is praise in the highest. Proper, well-fired Marinated Lamb. This would prove to be the highlight of his meal.
The Handi arrived first, leaving Marg and Hector salivating further. This was the first time I had seen the straightforward Chicken Handi. Handi? It’s the pot in which it comes, the contents can be anything Chef wants to serve, it is not a recognised Curry as such. The Lamb Handi I have tried, and found it to be not dissimilar to the (Desi) Korma, but that was then, today’s could be markedly different.
Chicken Handi
Topped with Coriander leaves and stems, the Blended Masala, with the tell-tale sign of Yoghurt/Cream having been added, smothered two pieces of Chicken Thigh, served boneless. With the Hector soon to be distracted, none was coming my way. Maggie found her Curry to be – Spicy – but like Marg, there is a long established history of them stating this when starting a Curry. Likewise, having had a Starter, the Curry would not be finished.
As Maggie ate, so a – Wow! – escaped from her lips. I doubt she realised this at the time, but it was duly noted. Maggie:
Lovely succulent chicken meat, hit in heat as well as spice. The handi was almost full, lots of sauce, boneless thighs, skinless. For me it was up there in the spice-hot, spicier than your Korma. The sauce was a bit on the thin side having tasted the Lamb Korma Handi.
Lamb Handi
The same presentation, same Masala, however, the light may have caught a suggestion of a Tomato-rich Masala. Clive never got beyond – OK – in describing his Curry, meanwhile the Naan was something else.
Served in quarters, the Garlic Naan was exactly that. There was a copious smothering of Garlic.
A Naan with real garlic, that was good.
Clive’s choice, not mine. Empirical evidence, as reported in these pages, surely proves that such a Garlic overdose tends to smother the other Flavours, leading to the Curry being – OK. Clive:
The outstanding thing were the lamb chops. Excellent, never had so much meat. They were dry, not smothered in sauce.
The other stuff was OK. Slightly on the spicy side.
We ended up with an abundance of Roti. Having ordered the Garlic Naan, Clive’s Roti quota arrived too. We had three on the table, each halved. Why cut up Bread? That’s our pleasure. Roti/Chapatti, these remained soft, so possibly closer to the latter.
Veg Fried Rice
A Vegetable Biryani in effect, it’s a pity that this remains only available in such a large portion. One needs to have a sharing partner. What’s this sharing nonsense?
Peas, Green Beans, shredded Carrot and Sweetcorn were in the mix. Diversity is the name of the game, this would fully complement the Curry.
*
Lamb Korma Handi
The full kilo of a Lamb Desi Korma, Hector heaven. Moiz had his moment as he brought it upstairs.
The appearance, of the Curry, and maybe the Chef, was magnificent. Ginger Strips, Coriander and sliced Bullet Chillies sat atop the mysterious Masala. Yes, this has Yoghurt, more than a Karahi, and is easily distinguishable from the latter Flavour-wise. One waits for the Citrus blast, it hopefully comes.
There was more Masala than one should receive with a Karahi, hence the Rice. At Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) and probably here too, I have found myself eking out the Masala, not today, Moiz had the ratio of Meat to Masala spot on to have with Rice.
The – big kick – had me waiting for Marg to repeat Maggie’s reaction, not today. Marg had accepted that this was how it had to be. She could choose to avoid the added Chillies.
The Seasoning was right up there, yet this Desi Korma was far from being – Salty. Consequently, and directly so, the Flavours were immense. A Clove appeared from somewhere, the Sucky Bone, and finally the Citrus. The quality of Meat was an improvement over that experienced earlier this year. Every piece of Lamb was suitably Tender.
This Desi Korma was immense, wonderful, and Marg was totally on board with it. Marg knows that this is a Special Curry, and it’s difficult to source at this level.
Whilst Rahman took care of the necessities, Moiz came up to take a further bow.
I hate to praise you too much, that was excellent.
Daddy has taught him well.
Marg stopped eating, the appetite sated. The Hector stopped at the point when there was still enough to justify taking some home, a Soupçon of Rice too. From my right, a hand appeared and dug into the karahi. Maggie was not for missing out. She instantly appreciated why this was way better and also pronounced it to be less Spicy than her Handi. Rather than have Clive miss out, and hopefully plant the seed for next time, he too was given a sample. Sweeter – was his comment.
This would normally mark the end of the meal, not tonight. The Masala Chai arrived, then the Desserts which are included with the Platters. There can be little, if any, profit in this deal.
It has a spice to it – remarked Marg – Cardamom.
That is what she was hoping for.
Two generous platefuls of Ice Cream and Gajar Halwa were presented. Like Hector, Clive was not bothered about Dessert and so Marg had his.
Moiz was doing us proud. This was way beyond – Dessert of the Day. Marg:
We waited patiently for our kilo of lamb korma handi. When it arrived I took some vegetable fried rice which was full of a variety of veg.
The korma was full of lamb on-the-bone and a fairly thick gravy sauce. On my first taste it was full of flavour and had many blasts of ginger and spices. A wonderful overall flavour with plenty of tangy mouthfuls keeping my lips tingly. Ate the food with pieces of roti and enjoyed the different textures within the rice.
Masala tea finished the meal perfectly. I did manage to eat the dessert with ice cream to help Clive out.
A family arrived upstairs as we were finishing. No early closing tonight.
The Bill
£77.93 Didn’t we do well?
The Aftermath
Back downstairs, still empty, people don’t know what they’re missing here.
Further regards, best wishes and appreciation were extolled.
I try not to praise Moiz too much, tonight, he deserved it. Moiz can cook and he knows how to look after his customers. He needs more customers, maybe if he opened earlier…