Both the ownership and the Fayre may have changed in recent years, however, Indian Mango (New co.) (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München, Deutschland) continues to be a draw. Lamm Chettinad (€16.90) remains on the menu, Fisch Chettinad (€15.90) disappeared yonks ago, ever under the original management, but is created on request.
Arriving in München from Bamberg mid-afternoon, Howard decided he would join the Hector for Fisch Chettinad. We made our way to Indian Mango (New co.) for 17.30, thirty minutes after the evening opening. A good time to eat. There was already a substantial number of customers, more would arrive. Mein Host, Rakesh greeted, a firm handshake confirmed that despite sporadic visits, Hector is still recognised here.
At the point of ordering I asked for – Desi-style, Mr. Jolly-style.
Who knows, it might have made a difference.
Bottles of Sparkling and Still Water (€3.90) completed the Order.
The 2024 Menu was duly recorded. Home-Made Mutton Curry With Bone (€15.90), this is one for the future. Hector has never had Lamb on- the-bone in München. That this Dish maintains surely confirms that the New-co. are not abandoning their – Desi – roots.
The atmosphere at Indian Mango is unique, the pungent aroma of Smoked Spice filled the air. This is a feature of South Indian / Sri Lankan cuisine. Wonderful, if you like it.
The food arrived after an appropriate wait. The inclusive bowl of Basmati, to share, was not over the top. I took what I knew I would manage, tonight, not too much wasted Rice.
Fisch Chettinad
With no Whole Spices, this interpretation was not only a marked departure from the – super-Dry – almost – stir-fry – version which prevailed for a decade at these premises, but also the one last served here. The quantity of Masala said – Fish Curry – but was far from the universal – Soupy Chettinad. Herb strewn, the colour of the Masala was not clear given the ambient lighting. There was a suggestion of – creaminess – but this was nothing like the level still enjoyed at Little India (Forchheim) a few days ago.
The Fish was white, six large pieces, each of which would be made smaller. The Texture of the Fish was perfect, its Flavour stood up against the powerful, smokey Flavour which had hit the back of the throat. Powerful indeed, a five nose-wipe Curry, does this mean – Vindaloo – strength? Crucially, the Seasoning was where it should be in a Fish Curry. Why it is so difficult to find a Fish Curry at this level still puzzles. This Fish Curry provided pleasure in the extreme, satisfaction.
Howard had a few words to add:
Much as I love Fish Pakora, I don’t eat that many Fish Curries. When I’ve been abroad with Hector Curry-Heute any Fish Curries I’ve had vary from the very good to the rather bland. Any of the best Fish Curries I’ve had have been at Mango in München. Tonight’s was no exception.
I didn’t get the smokey hit from the Chettinad, but both fish and the sauce had an excellent flavour, with a spiciness that was spot on. Still the benchmark against which other Fish Curries are measured.
The plan is to return to München in March, Lamb on-the-bone is calling. Time to bury the ghost of the original Indian Mango? No chance, there are too may references to this establishment embedded throughout this Blog.
The Bill
€39.60 (£32.93) Fish Curry is consistently cheaper than Lamb Curry outside the UK.
The Aftermath
I looked at the Chefs as I made my departure. Nope, no familiar faces.
Tomorrow, the Hector plans to try a München Curry House never visited before. Something significant may be revealed…