Always on the lookout for new possible – Desi – Curry Houses, even in Deutschland, the photo of Home-Style Mutton Curry with Bone (€16.90) popped up on Hector’s trusty Oppo. Dessi Tadka (Ottobrunner str. 31, 81737 München, Deutschland), a bit out of town, but only seven stops from Sendlinger Tor (U3).
*
Further research revealed the image of a well known figure on the München Curry scene – Herr Battra – once of Indian Mango before, in these pages, it became referred to as Indian Mango (New-co.). What were the chances that Herr Battra would be in situ this Saturday lunchtime, the final day of this trip?
Exiting from Aidenbachstraße U Bahn, it became clear it would have been better if I had taken the rear exit, in the direction of travel. From there, Dessi Tadka was virtually around the corner. Entering at 13.00, a young chap greeted me front of house. A few customers occupied the smaller tables, as I was led along the corridor to the rear, so there was audible greeting which must have attracted the attention of all. Herr Battra! Hugs! It has been nearly three years.
As I was shown to a large table in the rear dining room – Fisch Chettinad – was suggested by Mein Host. Despite having had that last night at Indian Mango (New-co.) I was still tempted, however:
I have never had Lamb on-the-bone in München – I advised.
Lamm Chettinad mit Knochen – was broadcast to the kitchen.
I have the Chef here – I was further advised.
A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50) completed the Order.
And so Madhu and Hector sat together whilst the food was being prepared. It has only taken twelve years to be on first name terms. Mr. Jolly, founder of Indian Mango, was here last week. Business is evidently booming, the fourth shop – Vegetarian/Vegan – opens soon. This is a far cry from the tales told by the Glasgow Curry Entrepreneurs. But then, Desi Curry in München remains a novelty.
I was told of the other shops, one in in Pasing, which features a large outdoor area, in addition to a further in Augsburg. Madhu is based here in Obersendling.
How is your wife?
Madhu always asked when Marg is not present. Now he knows, New Zealand, twice in a year. This time Marg returns with a medal, albeit – silver.
A chap, who was clearly the manager, brought Poppadoms and Dips. These I had to decline. I was out this early as I’m meeting Howard for an excursion to Kloster Andechs. I’ve written that a few times on previous München trips. Out early, eating early, I admitted there was no way I was going to finish whatever came my way.
When the food was brought, in addition to the inclusive Rice, a Tandoori Naan accompanied.
Served whole, just count the blisters! Glistening with Butter (not Garlic!), thin, easy to eat, this would mean even less Basmati would be consumed.
*
*
I decanted a sensible portion of Rice to the plate, more in hope than expectation. It is embarrassing when so much food is left.
Lamm Chettinad mit Knochen
I could immediately tell that this Curry was from the hand of a Chef who had worked at Indian Mango. This was as – Dry – as Curry gets. Tomato Seeds shrouded the Meat, the thickest of Herb-rich Masala, superb, only the merest trace of an Oil residue. There was a Sucky Bone, the Hector was home.
The full on, Smokey Chettinad blast was not there. However, this Curry certainly tasted – South Indian. I picked out Bay Leaves, I did sense the finely chopped Coriander Stems as I ate. Ah, the Mango Gritty Texture! I have missed this.
The Texture of the Meat was impressive, minimal chewing. There was no doubting this was – Mutton – so distinctive. As I got deeper into the karahi, so there was a burnt taste coming though, now we’re getting there.
The Spice Level impressed, multiple wipes, especially after the sliced Red Chillies were encountered. The Seasoning was below expectation.
Everyone was through to check all was well.
In time, the Indian Mango Chettinad Flavour was coming through, but not the powerful smokiness per se. I suspect Chef was between a rock and a hard place. By insisting on Lamb on-the-bone, my base Curry was not from where he would have started. A different outcome was inevitable.
In March, there could be seven of us in München. We’ll see who comes here for Fisch Chettinad. The Hector may well try Home-Style Mutton Curry with Bone (€16.90), but I suspect there could be more than one visit.
The Bill
€20.40 (£17.02)
The Aftermath
Madhu was sitting nearby, lunching with a colleague. As they concluded, so Hector had his photo.
On the way out I asked the young chap if I could see the Chef. He pointed back to where I had just come from.
Cook Chef! – was then realised.
*
Big smiles, it had been nearly three years.
Later, at Kloster Andechs, Howard, who had arrived first, was sitting with a couple of München residents. They asked me which Curry House in the city I recommended. Even after one visit, it had to be Dessi Tadka.
Our favourite – was the reply.
QED.