Regular trips to the capital ceased when Monty’s – the only bar in Edinburgh – closed.
Getting a posse together to justify a visit to Rustom Restaurant (2 Grosvenor St, Edinburgh EH12 5EG) has, until today, proved to be impossible for some years. Marg’s long time friend, Alison, who appeared in these pages in the first Curry-Heute review posted in New Zealand, Des Traditions (Auckland), is here on vacation with her entire troupe. Husband, Steve, has of course appeared in the saga of last year’s – Around The World in 80 Days. For reasons, hockey related, Wendy and Peter made up the table for six at 15.00.
Sunni, who was mostly in the background today, later I realised he has regrown his beard. There was no sign of Yasi, instead, Ajeet was very much to the fore.
Somehow, we ended up at the same table I have occupied on most of my previous visits in company. I managed to avoid having the soon to set, but still brilliant, sunshine blinding my eyes.
Do you want Poppadoms?
No – was the Hector’s very audible reply. However, Alison would eventually order one Poppadom (£1.00). The four Scots at the table are well are of this game, we refused to play.
Drinks were sorted, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£4.95) would serve three of us. Wendy asked for Soda & Lime (£1.95) without ice. The two other chaps ordered booze: Peter a Cobra (£5.50), or two, Steve, a large glass of Merlot (£7.95).
The Soda & Lime arrived with ice and was duly returned. The correct drink came along with the error. The latter was offered to the table, Marg accepted.
Do you want Poppadoms? – Ajeet was still trying when he came to take the food Order. When he reached my end of the table, the question was repeated, and again when he went back to discuss Alison’s dietary requirements.
That’s four times you’ve asked – I pointed out, again audibly.
If they want us to have Poppadoms, bring them, and don’t think of charging us. How much are we going to spend here today?
Having previously agreed that Marg and I would be sharing the kilo of Lamb Karahi (£29.95) from the – Desi Khana – section of the menu, we did not need a Starter. But, given the advised thirty minute wait for this creation, – we could share a Starter. Marg and Wendy appeared to have a tacit understanding that – sharing – was the way ahead. This only works: a) if there’s enough to share, b) one actually wants what others order.
A Vegetable Pakora (£3.95) was our choice. A fiver for a Samosa, they’re having a laugh. Having dismissed the Lamb Keema Samosa (£4.95) because it was a portion of – one – despite the wording on the menu suggesting otherwise, Wendy and Peter were having something they had never experienced before: Gol Gappa (£5.95). Gol Gappa, aka – Pani Puri – I have had, a few times, and never paid for, an amuse bouche.
That was clearly the end of – the sharing. Alison ordered an honourable Seekh Kebab (£5.95), and given Steve’s eventual choice of main course, a surprising Tandoori Chicken (£5.95).
Indeed, Steve’s choice of main was Chicken Shaslik, playing it safe, not a Curry. Peter too avoided – Curry – and went for Lahori Lamb Tikka (£14.95). This is something I feel I should consider having in Europe, to avoid the disappointment of Mainstream Euro-Curry-Shorva. But then, how would I establish the latter unless I take the risk?
Alison chose Chicken Bhuna, having discussed, again, her dietary options with Ajeet. Wendy went for Lamb Pathia (£13.95). Despite all that is written in these pages denigrating – Chicken Curry – Patia, is one Curry I find which does not work so well with Lamb.
It was Marg who actually ordered the kilo of Lamb Karahi on-the-bone, a first. There was no call then for – extra Desi. Peter declared his intention to have a Nan (£3.95), I persuaded Marg that we should share one also. £2.50 for a single Chapatti was not on. Alison and Wendy both ordered Pilau Rice (£3.95).
The two other tables, originally occupied, were soon free, an opperchancity to take a couple of photos of the room. A somewhat chilly room, Alison would keep her coat on throughout our stay, but then she has left the New Zealand summer behind.
Gol Gappa
Wendy hadn’t expected a cold Starter and reckoned this should have been made clearer on the menu. Had she be more familiar with a well known and reliable Curry Blog, this could have been ascertained, else she could have asked the person sitting diagonally opposite.
Four shells containing Chickpea and Potato were accompanied by a Tamarind Sauce. A tasty novelty is always how I have had Pani Puri. Paying six quid for four, customer’s choice. Peter offered a few words, having let him off the hook recently, it was time to record his thoughts:
The first time I’ve had Gol Gappa, the flavours were a good combination of spices.
Vegetable Pakora
Five pieces, modest or miserly? By the time Marg wheeched two and placed them on the plate with the Gol Gappa, there wasn’t much for the Hector to sample. Two pieces eventually came my way. They appeared to have been double fried, as is the norm. Spicy, well Seasoned, moreish.
In terms of Vegetable Pakora, the Hector has been spoiled, too often, by Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton). Now, they serve a decent portion of Pakora.
Seekh Kebab
The two Chicken Kebabs were devoured by Alison, who was clearly enjoying her selection. There was a – thumbs up – from the far end of the table. This was a better value Starter than the two above.
Tandoori Chicken
Due to his dietary restriction, it was safer for Steve to leave the accompanying Raita alone. Using the utensils, Steve set about dissecting his piece of Chicken. Well fired, with a Spicy coating, this went down well.
There was an appropriate wait between courses.
Hot plates, cold room – was noted as the dinner plates arrived. Six diners, five mains, it’s a pity there’s no video of the food being presented. The various dishes were assembled on a tray brought to the side of the table. Each had a lid, to preserve the sense of occasion. Three (!) portions of Pilau were presented, enough for all those who desired Rice.
The Naan was served whole, and in the style the Hector seeks. Both a good size, risen puffy, blistered, only the lack of a Buttery Sheen stopped this being the perfect Tandoori Naan. But a scrap would remain at the end, so, certainly enjoyed.
Let’s get the – Chicken – out of the way first.
Chicken Shaslik
The Chicken Tikka sat on a bed of sizzling Onions. To fill out the platter, halved Tomatoes and large wedges of both Yellow and Green Capsicum were a stand out. A karahi with a Shorva-Masala accompanied. Again, Steve thought it better to ignore this.
There was a lot to get through. The Capsicum did not look out of place here, but I have to admit to being amused when Steve decided to abandon quite a few pieces. With greater familiarity, I would have stretched across and helped Steve with the abandoned Tomato. Steve:
It was a good range of vegetables, and it was tasty. Very enjoyable.
Chicken Bhuna
How was this a – Bhuna? The Masala may have had a sense of viscosity, but there was way too much of it. Bhuna is what led the Hector towards – Dry Curry – all those decades ago in Vinicombe Street (Glasgow). Had I been served this there would have been questions asked. My tuppence worth is written, however, it was Alison who has the verdict:
Very tasty, great blend of spice.
A Chicken Curry then. People keep ordering it.
Lahori Lamb Tikka
Nine large pieces of Lamb Tikka sat atop a bed of sizzling Onions. No Ballast here. I had to assume that Peter too received a karahi with Shorva-Masala. There was a spare at my end of the table if he required more.
The Hector could have done damage here, this looked wonderful, an intensity of Flavour, understood. I feel a mixed Tandoori coming soon. And the joy is, anyone can do this, any cafe/restaurant with a Tandoor. Peter:
The meat was tender, the curry sauce had a tingle in the mouth. Not too spicy. The Naan was freshly made.
Lamb Pathia
The red Masala, as Soupy as a Curry can be, the pieces of Meat resembling Channel Swimmers, lost at sea. It was what it was. Patia can be very tasty, and even the Hector occasionally succumbs to cooking this. The posted – Patia recipe – never fails to impress.
Wendy was also encouraged to sample the Masala in the Lamb Karahi and pronounced hers to be better:
For me, it was the best Patia I’ve ever had. It was lovely. I asked him to make it milder, it was perfect for me. No heat, but perfect. The lamb was tender.
We all have different tastes.
And now for the main event.
Lamb Karahi – the kilo – on-the-bone
A sprinkling of Coriander plus Ginger Strips topped the Karahi. Large pieces of Meat, it was impossible to judge the bone content at the start. I’ve seen – larger kilos – and given the ease with which Marg and I took care of this one, the quantity was not a challenge. I must point out that the price of – the kilo – at Rustom is significantly lower than what one currently pays in the West.
The Masala had the Texture associated with being Tomato-based, the telltale Tomato Seeds were not spotted. The Thick Masala shrouded the Meat, there was no Oily residue, healthy eating or what?
Cumin came through in the melange of Flavours. Dry, Earthy, this was delightful eating. Tender, tasty, as the Meat was, it was not giving back the depth of Flavour as, dare I say it, my favourite Glasgow Curry outlets offer. No Sucky Bones here, what I took to be Chops were present. Did I enjoy it? Of course! Desi Karahi is always to be savoured.
Ajeet was keen to take the empty karahi away. This I stalled until the end game was photographed.
I may have to lick the karahi – kept him at bay. Marg, who, unusually, had also taken some of the Rice, had her say:
A dry Curry with tender lamb in a rich and thick masala. The lamb broke into smaller pieces and I added Rice and used the fresh, crisp Naan to eat the food. A good spice level and I was always ready for more. Very enjoyable.
Between us, we had covered a fair part of the menu. More items to be added to the Rustom Restaurant page.
The Bill
£151.70 Six diners, good value overall.
The Aftermath
With Sunni still in the background today, I was determined to mark the visit and so gave a Calling Card to Ajeet. This was the required trigger, Sunni was soon in attendance.
I related how Marg and I had promised to visit some four to five years ago when my Dear Lady was invited to Holyrood for a Royal Garden Party. Then Covid hit…
The temperature of the room had to be mentioned. Apparently, they had turned the heating off earlier. With the sun shining directly into the building, the place had been sweltering, Sunni assured us.
Yasi, I was told, has left Rustom and now runs a chain of six Takeaway outlets across Central Scotland. No names/places were given.
Business here remains healthy, despite the reported opening of quite a few more Punjabi Curry Houses in Edinburgh. These I shall have to track down, which could take years given how rarely I am through here.
Still, few places I suspect, will be serving proper Karahi Gosht. I dropped – Namkeen – into the conversation. It can be served at Rustom on request, so why not add to their menu?
Fish Karahi (£13.95), never had it here, I’ll be back.