Alan, Tracy, Marg and Hector out for Curry, this takes an unbelievable amount of planning, so rare do mutually free nights coincide. Tonight, Curry in Helensburgh, a rarity in this era, but commonplace a decade ago. Annaya’s Indian (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD) is one of the two possible options, always packed, whilst nearby Masala Twist, not visited in over a decade, appears to be struggling.
With the table booked for 19.30, we were offered a choice. Away from the draft of the door seemed preferable, success, another warm room.
I went up to photograph the Specials Board, the Desi Curry, and a now greatly expanded list.
A former colleague, whose longevity may match Jimmy Carter’s, was dining at the opposite side of the room, pleasantries were exchanged.
The new menu is a decidedly different presentation. I would later discuss with Rocky, Mein Host, the venues which have identical menus, same printers, same layout, same food, Mainstream. The – Connoisseurs Section – now features Chatinat (£14.95), Hector’s favourite South Indian Curry. Rocky assures me their Masala is thick. A Thick Chettinad, in the West of Scotland, this will have to be explored, especially if – Fish – is an option.
As with our last visit, Alan would define our bespoke Curry: Desi Lamb Methi – Spicy, with extra Seasoning, on-the-bone (£14.95), aka – The Kitchen Sink?
Tracy was also having the tried and tested: Chicken Tikka Malaidar (£14.95). Also from the Connoisseurs Section, Marg found Podina Gosht (£14.95).
Alan and Tracy were each having a Chapatti (£2.50), the price remaining the same as on our last visit in 2023, the top end of restaurant pricing, Aberdoom excepted. Alan mentioned overheads, I mentioned Bradford. Marg and Hector would stick to the normal sharing combination: Mushroom Pilau Rice (£4.75) and a Tandoori Nan (£3.25). Despite not having Rice himself, Alan insisted we order Special Dham Pilau Rice (£4.95).
As we were here – to dine – there was Bier, a Cider or two, for the local couple, Sparkling Water for Marg and Hector. Despite the inevitable consequence, there would be Starters. Tandoori Lamb Chops (£8.95), but how many in a portion? The young waiter was dispatched to find out – three. We have been spoiled by Akbar’s (Glasgow). Dividing by four wasn’t going to work. Hector fell on the sword and ordered Fish Pakora (£7.95). Two portions of Lamb Chops would therefore work.
Poppadoms were offered, Alan was quick to decline. He doesn’t play that game either.
A new menu, lots of note taking, and Rocky pointing out new Dishes. Kerala (£14.95), with roasted Black Pepper and Coconut, another South Indian Curry for the future. Rocky promised her would give us something extra.
Can I choose it?
No!
I would have chosen Aloo Gobi (£10.95), I tried.
Tandoori Lamb Chops
I forgot to ask for well-fired – admitted Alan. Still, the extremities were suitably – black. The appearance was of well marinated Chops.
Very tasty Lamb Chops, perfect size – declared Alan.
I am always amused when Tracy tucks in to Lamb Chops, but cannot abide Lamb Curry.
Marg had one Chop, still I was not tempted. Someone managed three.
Fish Pakora
Six large pieces, quite a plateful. I assumed it was Haddock smothered in the Spicy Batter. I could happily have forgone the Curry and had more of this. I feel a return to Yadgar (Glasgow) is calling, where overindulging in Fish Pakora is a favorite pastime.
Everything fresh, Marg purloined the Salad Garnish. I tried the Chilli Sauce one of the three Dips on the table. Lovely, but finishing my Curry was going to be an impossibility.
There was a suitable wait before the Mains and Sundries arrived, what a lot of food. Who were we trying to kid?
I took the wrong Rice, assuming it to be the Mushroom. Start again. With my plate reduced to a share of the Special Dham Pilau featuring Chickpeas, Carrot and Sweetcorn, then the Mushroom Rice added, the assembled Rice was reaching Euro-proportions.
The two Wholemeal Chapattis, served halved, were a substantial size. Then there was the Tandoori Nan. Served in bits, I wondered if we had two, such was the volume. For the third time in recent outings, a Naan how the Hector likes it. Risen, puffy, blisters, and a Buttery sheen. The temptation to eat more Bread than my norm could not be resisted, just how much Curry would I actually eat?
Podina Gosht
Mint was mentioned in the menu, enough to put off the Hector, but not Marg. Nobody was expecting what came. A Curry with a Chapatti lid baked on, in the style of clay pot cooking. More Bread, just what we didn’t need.
Marg had the honour of slicing the lid open to reveal a Herb-rich Curry. The Masala had Yoghurt written all over it, suitably Thick, a worthy Curry. For once, the Soupçon was not requested. Marg did her best, but as should be self evident, a doggy-bag would be required:
My main dish looked like a pie. I had to cut inside the dish to remove the Chapatti lid over the food. I had an abundance of very tender Lamb pieces, slow cooked in this pot. Plenty green foliage within the Masala and I expected it to be a strong flavour of mint. Instead, it added flavour but it was not overbearing. I managed to eat the lid with my meal, and added both Mushroom and Dham Rice with Chickpeas (Alan had ordered for us). The ambience was enjoyable and important for me to try new dishes. A lovely change.
Beneath Podina Gosht on the menu is Sim Sim Chandani (£14.95), a Curry with a Persian influence. The Chicken version has appeared in these pages, not the Lamb. Next time.
Chicken Tikka Malaidar
I have seen Malaidar at Annaya’s previously, it looks as though this Curry has been further developed. The Creaminess of the Masala has become more subdued, the shocking yellow, gone. The Spinach content was a standout. The same ingredients as a European Saag/Palak, but this was far more inviting. Again, a doggy-bag was required.
Tasty still eating it – was the verdict eventually received.
Desi Lamb Methi on-the-bone
Both karahi had clearly been sat under a heat lamp/grill whilst the above was being prepared. There was a black, toasted crust on top, fortunately Alan and I are not going to complain about a bit of Carbon. The Garnish of sliced Bullet Chillies and Ginger Strips had been added at the point of serving.
The Thick Masala was Methi-rich, eating this with the excellent Naan was sheer joy. The minimal bone content featured one Sucky Bone. No – bag of bones – here. Columnar Lamb, not the cuts I associate with – Desi. Tender, tasty, but the Seasoning was below the Hector idyll. Alan admitted that he may have forgotten to add the – Seasoning – suffix.
With the volume of Rice and the included Vegetables, a meal to enjoy. I wish I could have eaten more. Alan:
The food was exquisite. Spicy, with extra seasoning, perfection and a lovely chapati, all with a small cider.
I may dispute the level of Seasoning and the size of the Cider.
Throughout the meal, the complimentary – Side – sat there, taunting us.
Khudi Pakora
I appreciate that this is a popular Desi Curry with some, however the Pakora goes mushy in the Masala. A somewhat Creamy Masala, the four of us had no more than a Soupçon.
Better eaten cold – advised Rocky when he saw how much was left.
This went into one of the two doggy-bags, but which?
Additionally, there was what I took to be a pot of Chilli Sauce on the table. As my Curry had sufficient Spice, I never got that far.
*
Marg was not leaving without a Masala Tea, Tracy ordered a Black Coffee. Note, I have no prices for any drinks.
Helensburgh, in my forty three years of association, has always been blessed with a quality Curry House. Whilst the Akash lives long in the memory, Annaya’s are doing a damn good job. The menu has the Mainstream Classics, however, the array of novelty dishes would take some time to get through.
The Bill
£138.45 It wasn’t all Cider, I believe.
The Aftermath
Having joined us at the end of the meal, Rocky was in full flow. The second Annaya’s (Balloch) was discussed. Rocky was not drawn into answering where the base Curry is cooked. In time, he summoned me to the door of the kitchen to meet Munir, his Chef of some eight years at Annaya’s.
Munir came to Scotland in the early nineties. He previously worked at The Rupee Room (Ayr), the third Curry House near the – University City – waterfront, and not covered in Curry-Heute.
Namkeen Karahi – was mooted, both Munir and Rocky acknowledged its splendour. There’s another idea for the Specials Board.
It looks like I may have to go back to Helensburgh more often.