My last visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP), and too many months ago, appears to have coincided with someone in the USA receiving a bloody ear. Today, as I ate my feast at Yadgar, it was about an hour until he was sworn is as the 47th President. As the Turkish proverb goes: When a clown moves into a palace, he doesn’t become king. The palace becomes a circus.
Hector back at Yadgar, and treated like Royalty, as ever. This, ironically, is why I have to limit my visits to what remains the outstanding venue for Curry in this city. The Hector is not paid to write this, an empirical viewpoint. However, favours do have a habit of happening.
Having been away quite a bit last year, I had failed to notice the new facade and black shutters. The shutters were still down as I arrived before the scheduled 14.00 opening time. I wish it was earlier, as the chap, waiting outside before me, may also have felt. He was to be first in line for a Kebap. In the hour I was at Yadgar today, a lot of Kebap went out the door.
Shafiq raised the shutters at 13.55, and quickly removed the covers from the food on display. He then brought a raw Donner from the kitchen and installed it on the rotisserie.
A Chef, new to me, arrived moments later. They were ready for another day.
There was a huge tray of Fish Pakora (£6.00 / £8.00) on display, so nothing fresh from the kitchen for Hector today. I spotted two dishes containing Potato in the corner of the shelf.
Chicken Mince and Potato-Cauliflower – advised Shafiq.
Ill have the Aloo Gobi (£5.00) – raised a smile across the counter.
Fish Pakora, no Rice/Bread – completed the Order. Yes, this is what I had last time, but that was six months ago, self denial in the extreme.
At 14.00 there was a queue. Was this people getting in early for tonight’s Takeaway dinner, or having a late lunch, a la Hector? I cannot answer this, but shall plant the seed that restoring the earlier opening time may be worth a try.
Who has Kebap for lunch anyway? Apart from the Greeks, Turks, Lebanese …
Settled into my usual spot, I had come prepared for the chilly room. It was approaching 15.00 when the next two sit-in customers arrived.
The young chap who serves tables and behind the counter when Naveed is missing, as he was today, brought me a most impressive Salad and a huge bowl of Raita. It was time to order a drink, the usual Rubicon Mango (£1.00). Still no Sparking Water at Yadgar.
Black and Green Olives, pickled Chillies, my favourites. I will admit to leaving the green stuff.
The reheating did not take long, quite a feast, and healthy too.
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Fish Pakora
Just the nine pieces, each would be halved, such was their size. A whole Fish then.
The Spiced Batter blanketed the white Scottish Haddock. It’s all about balance here: the Spice mustn’t drown the natural Flavour of the Fish. Flipping between Pakora and Salad, the variety of Textures makes this so much fun to eat. Fish without Chips, or Bread even, Hector celebrating Salad, it was the quality of what sat before me which makes the meal. And there’s more.
Aloo Gobi
Fortunately this had been truly reheated, so the time taken to admire the Fish Pakora was not to the detriment of the Vegetable Curry. There was possibly twice as much Cauliflower as Potato in this portion, as it happened, this turned out to be a bonus. I have written oft of Potato’s ability to absorb Flavours, today no exception, however… the Cauliflower had it. It just kept giving. One piece surprised, al dente, the rest was spot on. Just enough firmness. Pulp is not what the Hector seeks.
I had stirred the Cauliflower, Potato and Minimal Masala before I started to eat, aesthetics. On licking the spoon, the full blast of – The Yadgar Taste – hit the palate. Astonishing, a – Wow! – moment and I hadn’t even started eating the Aloo Gobi.
On New Year’s Day, Chapatti John arranged to collect a kilo of Goshat Karahi (£30.00) to take back across the river to Dr. Stan’s. I reminded him to ensure that he bought a portion of whatever Vegetable Curry was on display. As much as they enjoyed the ever-impressive Karahi, it was the Vegetable Curry they both particularly mentioned, when I caught up with them on the third.
To come to Yadgar and not have a Vegetable Curry is a big mistake. The intensity of the distinctive Flavours, mellow Spice, perfect Seasoning, is something to behold. And everyone else was ordering Kebap.
I was down to my final mouthfuls, – leave the green – wipe the bowl of the Aloo Gobi with pieces of Fish, when Shafiq appeared before me. Not for the first time at Yadgar – something to try. I made it clear to Shafiq that I was stuffed. How did I manage a Chapli along with this combination previously? It was agreed that it would savoured at home.
Behold a freshly made plate of Chana Pilau. In fact I had to verify with the waiter as I put on my coat that it was indeed Chickpea. I had sampled one, a black Chickpea? These I had never seen before.
For nefarious reasons, I have been buying lots of fresh Spinach of late. Maybe a Palak Gosht with Chana Pilau is calling?
The Bill
£13.00
The Aftermath
I even heard a customer speaking Polish as I departed. Kebab House – may have been dropped from the signage, is there something else I don’t know?