OK, we did pass through Bradford yesterday en route to Manchester/Bury. No way was I missing out on a visit to Bradford, City of Culture, 2025. The bus station is open again after a lengthy hiatus. The road outside the train station is no longer one to fear in terms of picking up traffic violation fines. Yes, I did get one years ago. The city centre is now void of road traffic, a pity the new gardens at Hall Ings are not finished. The erection outside the city hall is naff. A poet, artist, may insist it has meaning, it’s a line of arches, no doubt to be disposed of pro tem.
Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW) has long been a favourite Bradford Curry House. Since @2023, the late opening times were reinstated, however, Marg and Hector had an early evening Curry in mind.
At 18.00, Sheesh Mahal was almost empty, by the time we left, almost heaving. Well, the downstairs anyway, upstairs remains a mystery.
Amar was behind the counter as we entered. He knew it has been a while. Last time, the Hector did not even have Curry here. We were shown to a small table, our usual spot. Abdul brought the welcome Raita and Tomato-Capsicum Mash which I shall henceforth identify as Pakora Sauce #2 from the Recipe list above. A fresh, but simple Salad, a Soupçon of Mango Sauce and Poppadoms soon followed. The table was laden already, all Complimentary. Marg tore in then checked if the ritual photography had been completed. Abdul had been tasked with asking Marg – are you having tea today? That Amar was on his phone reading past reviews was given away. Kashmiri Tea (£2.50) was duly ordered.
In the days of Omar, Amar’s cousin and son of Taj the owner, the Hector rarely consulted the menu. Tonight, Amar was keeping his distance, so no whacky creations were forthcoming. From the menu I would therefore choose. I shall point out that the price increases over the two years since last time here, are at an an absolute minimum. I did see the big Dishes on offer, e.g. Lamb on-the-bone Balti (£34.95) had only gone up by £2.00 since 2023. That’s only 6.0%, well below the rate of inflation.
Lamb Masala (£12.95) served on-the-bone was Hector’s straightforward choice. No Karahi? It’s not on the menu. Where has it gone? I instructed Abdul that I did not wish to see any Peppers. They have appeared at Sheesh Mahal over the years, despite my requests otherwise. A Naan (£2.00) would accompany.
Marg chose something different: Makahani Mutton (£11.95) with a Chapatti (£0.50) to accompany.
Note the notional price for a Chapatti.
A mature chap, who had to be Taj’s brother, sat opposite, counting today’s cash takings. He doesn’t know us.
I assume that Taj has finally retired?
We had plenty to nibble on and nibble we did. Pakora Sauce #2 was outstanding. Lemon Juice appears in my published Recipe, this had an equally potent sense of something – acetic/citric.
The Seasoning was something else, despite containing the unwelcome Green Vegetable and being presented as the Dreaded Green Mush, this Sauce/Dip was excellent. The Curry would have to be good to shift this intensity of Flavour from the palate.
The Naan sat before us, whole, risen, puffy, and with blisters forming. A fine Naan, and I would eat more of it than I should. Chapatti? Hidden beneath the Naan, three, proper Chapattis – thin, not floury. Marg would eat little more than one, as she had ordered. Three Chapattis, it’s a Bradford thing.
Lamb Masala
A plateful of Curry, no handi, no karahi. No Ginger Strips, just a wee Topping of Coriander. The quantity felt fine at the outset, manageable. The Masala displayed a appreciable level of viscosity and was far from excessive. Bradford is not the land of – Soupy Curry.
The Meat, served much larger than the traditional Bradford-small, was so Tender, some pieces bordered on turning to pulp. Little chewing required initially, more chewing towards the end when one tires.
Where was the Seasoning?
Where was the Spice?
Where was the Flavour?
Where was – The Bradford Curry Taste?
This Curry tasted as though Chef had simply scooped up a portion from the – on-the-bone Big Pot – and served it, no tweaking, no creativity. This was not the Curry I seek in Bradford.
The Oil was separating, everything looked kosher, moderate – may be as high as I can go with The Spice Level. The Seasoning was woefully lacking, or had Pakora Sauce #2 wiped out any chance of tasting the Curry?
With the distinctive Methi-rich Bradford Curry Taste simply lacking, it was the Flavour of the Lamb itself which was dominant.
If Omar had been here…
Makahani Mutton
The absence of bones and the Coconut Topping were the features which visually differentiated the two Dishes. Only on enlarging the photos can any significant difference in the Masalas be identified. Even then, one is still trying hard to spot the Cream, if there was any. I ask – how was this a Makhani?
Had Chef not turned up for work this evening?
Marg gives her words, I add these without further comment:
I had ordered mutton … and there were many small pieces of lamb in this dish. Minimal sauce, but enough to keep the dish moist. I was surprised how many pistachio nuts were found throughout the dish. This gave the meal a good texture as well as flavour. It was a fairly creamy coloured dish with no outstanding flavour. I thoroughly enjoyed it with one Chapatti.
Marg’s Kashmiri Tea arrived at the end of the meal. Possibly the real deal, pink and milky in appearance but no bits i.e. Cardamom.
The Bill
£27.10 The saving grace: the Bradford custom of inclusive Bread had been honoured.
The Aftermath
Amar was still busy behind the counter as we departed,
Farewells were exchanged from a distance.
Then the evening took on an added dimension.
Minutes away at The Record Cafe, we were hardly sat down when a chap, Tony, sat at the adjacent table. They, who have to go outside, returned to claim their table having left little clue as to their intentions/whereabouts. Having been evicted from his chosen spot, Tony began chatting to Marg, initially, whilst he waited for his two lady friends to arrive.
What brings you to Bradford?
Curry.
Have you read Curry-Heute?
I write it!
At this point, imagine Hector’s head swelling, whilst Tony picked himself off the floor.
You’re a legend, and we follow your Bier Blog too.
By – follow – he meant using it as a template for places to visit whilst in Europe, i.e. the intended use.
Subsequently he texted friends, Paul and Vanessa, to inform them of who he was sitting with. Their response caused Tony to be further gobsmacked.
We know Hector, he took us for Curry in Wroclaw.
And so I did. A pity Bier-Traveller can never be as up to date as Curry-Heute else there would be more on this tale to relate. But there’s more this evening.
Outside t’Travelodge at Forster Square, Kurumilagu – Indian Kitchen has opeend in the premises occupied a decade ago by Spicy Corner. A South Indian restaurant in Bradford, who would have thought? A waiter spotted me taking the exterior photo and rushed out with a menu. Scottish Lamb! – and yes, they do serve Chettinad – Lamb Chettinad Kulambu (£10.99) and Parotta (£2.99). One day, maybe tomorrow?