Fisch Chettinad, as served in München, has been celebrated oft in these pages. As established last November on Hector’s first visit to Dessi Tadka (Hofmannstraße 43, 81379 München, Deutschland), Chef Pintoo accompanied Herr Madhu Battra when this new business was established, leaving the much loved Indian Mango behind. Whilst Chettinad remains available at Indian Mango (New-co), this ubiquitously Soupy Curry has returned to form there, only at Dessi Tadka can one source the interpretation which has had Hector write so effusively since the birth of Curry-Heute.
There are six of us in München this week, this morning two baled, leaving Marg plus Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley to join the Hector at the arranged 13.45. With a 14.30 end of shift looming that was reckoned to be manageable, however the Crawley Two arrived before 13.30 and got things underway.
Herr Battra is in India presently, so no familiar greeting. Maggie mentioned Curry-Heute, as is always advised, then produced a photo of Chef, established he was here and that the formerly – Mango-style – Fish Chettinad (€19.90) was available despite not being on the menu. Marg and Hector were therefore still on the U3/U6 from Marienplatz when texts were exchanged and four portions arranged, two Scharf.
On their arrival, the front seating area at Dessi Tadka was full, Clive and Maggie were directed through to the rear room where the Hector sat in November. The front area may be more suited to those here for the – Mittagskarte – Lunch Card.
Clive and Maggie were enjoying glasses of Mango Lassi (€4.00) as we arrived. Clive ordered another as Marg added Sparkling Water (€3.00) and the Hector two bottles of Fizzy Orange (€4.00).
A young lady appeared to be on bar duty whilst two chaps had the air of management. I did not recall meeting either last year. Otherwise, we had the rear room to ourselves, definitely the place to be if one is here – to dine.
The food arrived after a suitable preparation time, Maggie had indeed simplified the Order. The two less Spicy Chettinad were identified and allocated accordingly.
Inclusive Rice, the European norm, accompanied. A veritable mass, approaching seven portions was Hector’s guesstimation, Clive would manage two. Marg took minimal Rice, I ordered a Roti (€2.00) on her behalf. This arrived momentarily. Sorted.
Fish Chettinad
The handi was piled high with a sight not seen for some years, the sought after Dry Chettinad, closer to – stir-fry – than any other interpretation of this Curry. The aroma was decidedly – South Indian. Decanting the Fish, large pieces, there was lots of it. Seelachstfilet (Pollock) is on the menu elsewhere, one assumes the same Fish maintains.
With the – Masala – so Dry and Thick, it was certainly Herb-rich. We discussed Parsley versus Coriander, possibly even Curry Leaf. The Gritty Texture, which had been markedly missing in the Indian Mango (New-co) version in recent times, was back. Coriander Stems, now a key ingredient in Hector’s cooking.
Big Spice, as ordered, the powerful Smoky Flavour burst on to the palate. There was uniform appreciation around the table. I was glad I had not ordered this last time, but had a first ever Lamb on-the-bone version. Today the Hector had witnesses, we were quorate.
Steve doesn’t know what he’s missing – proferred Maggie.
And Dr. Stan won’t get the opperchancity to visit on this trip.
The complexity of Flavours on the palate remains remarkable. Sliced Red and Green Chillies were visible in the mix, no shortage of a – kick. Seasoning, not an issue here, a Fish Curry which tasted as such.
The Fish appeared to be encrusted in Spice, its integrity visible at the point of serving, the fork soon separated the discrete masses to create a more familiar flakiness. Stir-fry Rice may have been the outcome. This was in a different league from Kedgeree, another Hector favourite.
As Clive took more Rice, the Hector realised there was still more on his plate than could be managed. One tries. My fellow diners had much to say. Marg:
We were sitting in the back room of the restaurant. My dish was full of succulent fish covered with tasty spices with a wonderful sauce. The flavours burst in my mouth and I was delighted with the overall taste. A good kick and although I took some plain rice, I quickly ordered a Roti and it arrived with butter dripping from it. This fresh bread enhanced my enjoyment of the whole dish. I prefer bread to rice. I took my time to enjoy this wonderful dish. Clive:
The texture, flavour, everything spot on, couldn’t fault it. Huge fish, half a fish in there. I shall return.
A return on Thursday is planned already. Maggie:
The type of Curry when you start to eat you make that noise – aaahh.
Lots of big lumps of fish, loads of rice. Well done, Pintoo, he the man…
As the table was cleared, so our pleasure was related to the young lady. Our appreciation was reciprocated.
The Bill
€104.60 (£87.47)
The Aftermath
An updated photo of Chef Pintoo was secured, I promised we would return on Thursday.
Dessi, as cooked at home, Tadka, tempering the seasoning, what the Hector wants.
Dessi Tadka, sublime Curry in München is back.