Coconut Grove is closed for renovation, please use the free shuttle from Douglas Road – has been announced on every train leaving every Metro station during our days in Miami FL, regardless of direction of travel. It was somewhat ironic therefore when two major sources claimed that Bombay Darbar (2901 Florida Ave., Miami, FL 33133, USA) in Coconut Grove was the outstanding place in Miami for Curry.
Setting off from Brickell just after noon we took the Orange/Green Line south to Douglas Road then walked through a residential area to Downtown Coconut Grove. This was surely quicker than all the faffing about, and Google were the only peeps in Miami who did not appear to register the ongoing disruption. The free Trolley took us back.
Arriving at Bombay Darbar, in this pleasant Miami suburb, at 13.00, we were offered a table in the covered terrace where most diners were sat, or inside. After the walk, cooling down was necessary. Being a sweaty blob on eating a Vindaloo is fine, not so wonderful to present in such a manner.
A litre bottle of Sparkling Water ($7.50) was quickly procured.
The Thali lunch menu was quickly dismissed, if I’m going to review a Curry, let’s have the full Bhuna.
Marg had spotted a sign outside for Tandoori Salmon Salad, this was right up her street, a variation of her oft consumed Tuna Salad.
Other than Lamb Chops Masala ($34.95), there was no sign of Meat served on-the-bone. No Goat Curry either which tends to be served this way across the USA. This would be my first Lamb in ages, having had nothing but Vegetable Curry aboard the Norwegian Gem.
The description of the Lamb Kadhai ($22.95) was favourable, no offending Capsicum mentioned. I would take advice from the group of waiters who were highly visible when not required. Having declared my intention of having Lamb Curry, I asked –
Do the terms Desi or Apna mean anything to you?
This raised a smile.
I was directed to Lamb Roganjosh ($22.95) and Lamb Chops Masala as their – most popular – offerings.
Medium to hot was agreed for the Rogan Josh. With inclusive Basmati, there was no need to discuss the Bread options. However, I shall highlight the price of a Tandoori Roti ($3.95), so not just in Aberdoom.
I had just ordered possibly the most popular Curry in Miami’s most popular Curry House. Marg was quick to point out that – most popular – hadn’t actually answered my question.
Two halves of a Poppadom, the preferrred type with embedded Cumin Seeds, a Salsa, and what I took to be the standard Capsicum Mash, were presented. I nibbled. The Mash was Sweet, the Salsa a pleasant change.
Pink, the reader may notice a pink hue in most of the photos, such was the lighting. Using flash would have distorted the ambience. Large premises, table cloths aplenty, as Mainstream a Curry House in appearance as one might encounter. A restaurant, definitely not a Cafe. Had I found the latter, I would have been there for what is my only remaining opperchancity for Curry in Miami. There was of course Akash Miami Beach, which is not in Miami, before Cruise To The Edge.
Grilled Salmon Salad
What a bowlful! Marg’s intended snack was way more than she had imagined. We are in – America! – where people often – box – their leftovers for Takeaway.
The piece of Naan was not in the photo displayed outside, a bonus. I liked the blisters on the Naan, decent looking Bread, but none crossed the table. Needless to say, Marg ate the lot:
A large piece of salmon was the highlight of the dish. Had a small piece of cold Naan bread with garlic. Plenty of different green leaves made up the salad with flakes of almonds, cranberries, crumbled goats cheese on the top. Plenty of cucumber with chopped, small tomatoes. A big chew, but very enjoyable.
Now we know why the Hector was not offered any Bread. Curry aside, try ordering anything in the USA which does not come with Cheese.
Lamb Rogan Josh
The standard sized handi had Meat protruding through the blended, Shorva-esque, Masala. A Soupy Curry with Ginger Strips atop, and no sign of Fresh Herbs.
The Rice, served in a matching quantity, was a sensibly sized portion, manageable. On transferring to the plate I was pleased to see Cumin Seeds and a whole Green Cardamom. If there was also Whole Spice in the Masala then this Curry’s impression would be greatly enhanced. Alas no.
Prepare for more Mainstream Curry, Hector.
The large pieces of Lamb reached a count of double figures. A knife would have to be employed to manage these, a worthy portion of Meat.
The Spice Level impressed, a decent kick, never going to test, but as asked for. The Seasoning stood out by its absence. This was not going to be a – Karrah! – experience.
The Tender Lamb required an appropriate amount of chewing, not – super-soft then. Other than its own Meatiness, the Lamb was giving nothing back. The Curry-Heute checklist now complete, this Curry was set firmly in the Mainstream category.
The Flavour from the Masala was oh-so familiar. My suspicions at Akash Miami Beach shall never be proven, nor those aboard the Norwegian Gem, but in the latter, way more effort had been applied to disguise the probability that there and here, the base Spices came from a packet of – Prepared Spice Boxes. Whether they be from MDH/Shan/Lazzat, all have a telltale packet taste. Had any waiter approached us whilst we ate, there might have been discussion, but no.
Athena (Hellas) and Lisboa (Portugal) aside, I have to accept that in Continental Europe, whilst I tend to enjoy nearly every Curry, the vast majority of venues, are in the second division compared to what is served across the UK. Today’s Curry could only be considered to be at the lower level. The big question, however, in what way was today’s Curry a Rogan Josh?
There are two accepted styles of Rogan Josh. The version I consider to be traditional is the Tomato-rich, usually with actual pieces visible. Today, this was not the case. The alternative has a significant Cream presence, some argue this predates the – Tomato – version, Curry-Heute does not recognize that. Today’s Curry was not in this style either, just a standard Curry, no more. Not distinctive.
I have had significantly better Curry in the USA. If this is the best Miami has to offer, so be it. We’re back to the classic scenario of Chef/Proprietor serving up what they think the customer can manage, therefore that is what they want, instead of the authentic fayre as served in the Indian Subcontinent. And Glasgow’s Southside – where I’m headed soonest.
The Bill
$52.22 which quickly became $60.92 (£46.95).
The tip scale here was favourably lower than the 18-20-22 percentage options which prevail in this land.
Beware: many venues add a 20% service charge, then finesse a tip on top.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was, in time, given to one of the many rushing waiters who had once again all disappeared. Accepted politely, there was little further discourse.
No rapport – as Marg observed, then proffered – I’m doing my job.
2025 Menu
