Curry in Lisboa has been celebrated in these pages since 2020. Imagine Hector’s delight in discovering a source of Desi Korma last year. With a two Curry opperchancity on this trip, the priority was a return to Taste of Lahore (Rua do Benformoso 76, 1100-086 Lisboa).
As outlined on Saturday, there are six of us in Lisboa this week. As ever there was the matter of who actually wanted Curry at 12.30. Hector would prefer it to be two hours later, but that would severely limit the agenda for the rest of the day.
With Lord Clive and Lady Maggie staying at the same accommodation as Marg and Hector, close to Largo do Chiado, the four set off in the direction of Martim Moniz. The plan was to use Tram 12, however, today it had been cancelled and some of the tourist Tram 28 rolling stock was running the key part of the route from Praca de Luis de Camoes to Martim Moniz. As ever, the queue for Tram 28 was silly, Plan B, the escalators through the hill at Baixa-Chiado enabled our progress on foot towards the famed Ruo do Benformoso, Lisboa’s – Curry Mile.
Howard, a Lisboa debutant, and Steve were in situ at Taste of Lahore. So much for last night’s collective – I don’t know if I fancy Curry tomorrow. Marg would stick to her guns and order an alternative.
The menu was different, no longer a printed list, but an iconic layout, a style seen previously up the street at Tasty Hut Halal food and also employed in the comparable Curry Houses in Athena. Last year the portions were on the small side, today, the three size options were clear.
No Desi Korma, our young waiter confirmed without further explanation. This was Sadi, who would go out of his way thereafter to look after us. For some reason, the six of us stood out in this busy Curry Cafe.
Mutton Karahi – Karahi de Cabra (€11.00 – half) was Hector’s alternative, Howard would follow suit.
Above medium – was agreed for the Spice Level. Steve risked a step up and asked for his Chicken Karahi – Karahi de Frango (€9.00 – half) to be – Spicy. Maggie ordered the same Curry but a Quarter (€4.50) and sought a Spice Level closer to her palate.
Today, Clive was playing silly buggers, and had Maggie describe every option on the menu rather than tell us what he fancied. Come on Clive, it’s either Karahi or Dhansak. As the latter was not available, he went for Chicken Boneless Handi – Handi Frago Desossado (€9.00 – half). Marg for her non-Curry-snack chose Kebab Roll (€5.00) with – two sticks. Seekh Kebab.
No Rice (€3.00), but Steve nearly went there. With his back to the room, he could not see the mountains of Biryani being attempted by other diners. A Cheese Naan (€3.50) would suffice, though I continue to marvel at Steve regularly demolishing Rice and Bread. Plain Naan (€1.50) for Howard and 
Hector. I advised Clive that his favourite Keema Naan was not available, however, a Qeema Parata + Chai (€4.50) was. Sadi informed us that this was only served before noon as Breakfast (Nashta) and suggested a Roghni Naan (€2.50).
What is a Roghni Naan – asked Clive.
A Naan with perforations to stop it rising, and smothered in Sesame Seeds – was good enough for Clive after the Hector offered this description. Maggie was persuaded that there would be enough Bread on the table.
With a smaller Curry ordered, Maggie negotiated a Salad (€1.00) with an emphasis on Tomatoes. She would share a jug of Mango Lassi (€7.50) with Clive. A 1.5l bottle of Cola (€4.00) would be shared by the rest of us.
In addition to quite an impressive Salad, Sadi brought of plate of sliced Tomatoes – on the house. All were impressed by the Tomatoes which had way more Flavour than anything purchased in a UK supermarket.
Various staff members were involved in the delivery of the food. We got there.
The Plain Naan was served whole. The thickness suggested half Naan – half Roti, but as always in Lisboa and Athena, the quality of the Bread always impresses. Soft, puffy, burnt blisters, ticked the boxes.
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The Cheese Naan looked pretty much the same, but was served in quarters as was the Roghni. Both looked decent despite the needless use of the knife.
Kebab Roll
Two Lamb Seek Kebab with elements of Salad wrapped in a Roti. This looked to be a delight, way more interesting than just having the Seekh alone. It proved to be satisfying, Marg:
I decided to have a kebab roll instead of a Curry. Rolled up in a pitta bread or roti. Full of two Lamb Seekh Kebabs, as well as chopped cucumber, onion & coriander. There was a sauce added to the salad. The food was easily eaten with silver foil wrapping up the bread. I enjoyed the burst of coriander and the spicy meat. Plenty of flavour and very filling.
Mutton Karahi – Karahi de Cabra
Ginger strips and a sprinkling of Coriander topped the abundant portion of Karahi. The Masala was not in the classic Punjabi style, Soupy in comparison. As much as eating this Karahi was enjoyable, and we stuck to the code, Rice could well have been the better accompaniment.
With a definite kick, the Spice level was as asked for. The Seasoning impressed, this was going to be a pleasing session of Curry eating. Yoghurt flecks were visible in the Masala, adding a moderate level of Creaminess, noticeable but not detrimental.
The array of Spices had created the magical blend. I could not identify an individual Spice, no Whole Spices were present. Whatever, Chef clearly knew what he was about.
The Meat was served on-the-bone, a Lamb Chop was in Hector’s karahi, not Howard’s. A Sucky Bone was duly encountered, the occasional pieces of sinew had to be cut off. Chewy in parts, mostly soft, the Mutton was supersaturated. It’s moistness was outstanding, particularly after the dry Venison served in Renfrew last week.
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Sadi had stated that the – half – portion was intended for two. In the end, the Hector appetite had been sated. Maggie had helped finish my Naan, the extra Masala was just a bit too much to handle. Next time, Rice.
Having come for Desi Korma, this Desi Karahi did not disappoint.
Howard, as he been known to, added a few words:
The Sauce Was The Star.
First Curry in Portugal. The first taste of the sauce was stunning. So much flavour and depth. Initially the lamb lacked flavour but this changed over the duration of the meal. Surprisingly the plain nan also stood out in terms of taste. Combining the three elements complimented and accentuated the flavours. Another notch up on the lamb would created a truly memorable curry rather than just a good one. A final note on the spice level. A tad above my ‘normal’ but I found it hit the spot. Spicy but not on the silly scale. The litmus test is whether I would go back. In this case I would. Shout out to the excellent staff.
Chicken Karahi – Karahi de Frango
The presentation of the Chicken Karahi was similar to the Mutton. The Masala appeared ot have a similar Texture, still Soupy, maybe a bit more yellow. Steve:
Chicken pieces on the bone were n*cely cooked. The sauce was very tasty and spiced as I had requested. Small chunks of fresh ginger were a n*ce addition. The consistency of the sauce was just right. Would order again.
Cheese nan. Tasty, but a bit on the heavy side.
Although Maggie had made lots of positive comments as she ate, there was no formal declaration thereafter. Hector shall admit to being impressed by the appearance of this Chicken Curry. Maggie’s smaller portion looked tempting, the Masala, darker than that served to Steve, intrigued.
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Chicken Boneless Handi – Handi Frago Desossado
Handi, as is consistently reported, can be anything Chef wants to dish up. Not served in a handi, but a simple plate, this looked to be nothing special at all, a straightforward Chicken Curry. Clive:
A generous portion, lots of lumps of chicken there. Spice level was excellent, a kick not too hard. Right amount of sauce for chicken, could still dip my naan.
The Bill
€75.00 (£62.96) For six diners, excellent value.
The Aftermath
Having taken the group photo, Sadi was well onside. The Calling Card was well received and attracted the attention of the senior staff member. They were issued one last year, but, are these the same people?
I asked again about the absence of Desi Korma.
Maybe new shop – was his reply.
Another branch is due to open in two months. Whether this one disappears, or its an additional venue shall hopefully be revealed in 2026.