Glasgow – Banta Wala (Masala Twist) – It Has Been A While…

On leaving home this afternoon, Hector’s mind had traditional Curry & Rice foremost in mind, nothing exotic, something simple. En route to Partick it was realised that being a Monday, the intended venue opened later, i.e. too late.

The premises currently known as Banta Wala (192-194 Byres Rd., Glasgow G12 8SN) part of the Masala Twist chain, have been visited twice previously more than a decade ago. Not rushing back – has been used previously. Their Helensburgh branch comes a firm second to Annaya’s when events take me back to the Clyde Estuary. The relocated Hope Street branch has been visited in more recent times.

Arriving at Banta Wala at 13.45 the dining area was empty other than the waiter and waitress. Last time here, there was a Buffet which had brought in the masses. Today, no Lunch Menu, no Buffet. In time, three other chaps came in for a late lunch.

The menu was an A3 paper sheet set as a table mat, but removed after ordering. The waitress took the Order for a 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.60) as I perused the menu. Lamb Rogan Josh (£14.95) was in keeping with the original plan for today, however, a memory of outstanding Paratha led me towards a Curry which should command Bread. It was in Hope Street’s original Masala Twist where the Hector first enthused about their Vegetable Paratha, a feat not replicated when Helensburgh’s branch opened. Then, a spokesman explained that Helensburgh’s Prnatha/Paratha had been cooked on a Tawa, not the Tandoor as in Hope Street. Since those days, Hector has discovered the Malabar Parotta which is regarded as – the King of Paratha.

Somehow, I found myself ordering Lamb Handi (£14.75) and a Plain Paratha (£3.25). When asked – anything else – I had to admit that I would be doing well to finish what I had ordered. During the less than ten minute wait for the food, I had time to familiarise myself with the origins of the name of the restaurant. Banta – is a bottle stopper, Wala – of course the chap who sells them. This information was well illustrated on the walls.

The food was brought by the waiter at 13.59.

The Paratha, served whole, was clearly overdone. Had this been a Naan I would no doubt have been celebrating the burnt extremities.

The layering was there, a plus, the Wholemeal Flour, a minus. That the Bread soon went crispy, another minus.

*

Lamb Handi

Served on a plate, not a handi, there was no sign of the – earthenware – in which this creation had been reportedly cooked. Topped with Ginger Strips, the Dark, Thick, Herb-strewn Masala impressed. This is how the Hector likes his – Curry.

As I was not decanting, it took a while to confirm that the Meat count was into double figures. Later, Steve would tell me that the last time he was here, he sent back his plate featuring a mere three pieces of Meat. Today, there was certainly no issue with quantity.

Piping hot food, always appreciated, the first intake of Masala registered – South India – on the palate, yet the description said – Punjab. This was not a Punjabi Curry.

South India was verified when a series of whole Black Peppercorns were encountered. The Spice Level was above medium. The Smokiness I also associate with South India was not here. Instead, what I took to be Anise could have been the source of the potent, powerfully flavoured Masala.

The Lamb, whilst super-tender, was adding little to the meal. That which differentiates the Curry in a Desi Curry Cafe and the Mainstream was all too apparent today. The Meat was void of Seasoning, Spice, Flavour other than its own meatiness.

The waitress approached to ask if everything was – OK.

Yes – was the honest reply, but the Hector seeks Curry which is way better than just – OK.

With the Paratha and Meat not pulling their weight in this meal, it was left to the Masala to carry the load. Powerful, Potent, but somehow the Flavours became monotonous. The Lamb gone, I was left with a substantial quantity of Masala. This was when I came to accept that say, Mushroom Rice (£3.95), would have been a far better accompaniment. Rice and a Vegetable would have added a welcomed Diversity.

I ate less than I could have, I simply had no desire to eat any more.

As she cleared the table, the waitress again asked about my enjoyment.

It was alright, nothing great – I felt forced to admit.

Having sat in a corner, hardly visible from the bar area, I was surprised when Mein Host came over to join me. As pleasantries were exchanged, it became clear that he somehow had  remembered me. Does Masala Twist have facial recognition software?

Mein Host knew I had had the Handi. He accepted my premise that a Handi can be anything Chef wishes to serve. I acknowledged the potency of Flavour in the Masala, that I was underwhelmed was hopefully communicated. The overdone Paratha was explained as having been cooked in a Tandoor. I felt I was back to where it all began with Masala Twist.

The Bill

£20.60 less £2.70 = £17.90

I was not expecting the discount. Somewhere, in the house, is my 20% discount loyalty card for Masala Twist. I hadn’t anticipated needing it today.

The Aftermath

I gave the waitress the Calling Card.

In case you are wondering how your boss knows me.