The number of Deutsche Curry Houses reviewed in Curry-Heute exceeds one hundred. With a handful of exceptions, Hector admits to wearing kid gloves, when reviewing Curry in Deutschland, such is the level of mediocrity of the Fayre typically served across this nation. Euro-Curry, what restaurateurs believe the people want, not what they themselves would eat at home. If they do, heaven forbid. Today, no – kid gloves – were required.
Researching venues in/near Düsseldorf, Rice & Spice – Taste of Pakistan (Badeniastraße 13, 41564 Kaarst, Deutschland) stood out from the Mainstream. There was enough online information to suggest proper – Desi Curry – could be on offer.
It was therefore with great anticipation when Marg and Hector headed west on S-Bahn 28 from Düsseldorf, via Neuss, to reach Kaarst, IKEA Karst, to be precise. A minibus did meet the train to wheech peeps off to the furniture store. The railway line clearly continued, what dragons beyond had the train terminate here, may be established in time.
We managed to dodge the imminent thunderstorm, payback for blue skies and 31ºC yesterday, as we completed the short walk through firstly retail, then a residential area. If Kaarst has an historic centre, this was not the day to go exploring. One piece of information which must be shared, Kaarst is the birthplace of Berti Vogts, World Cup winner and erstwhile manager of Scotland.
Arriving at Rice & Spice at 12.40, a young chap greeted in what we soon realised was quite an extensive venue. He led us towards the dining area in the garden at the rear.
Draußen? No thanks, not today. Subsequent diners were happy to sit outside.
You have Desi Curry? – I asked en route. There was acknowledgment, however, we soon established that the young chap could have been new to Rice & Spice. He was not totally au fait with the items on the menu. A lady came out to greet, we would establish later this was – Any – Chef, and wife of Mein Host, Ahmed. I explained that we had come far to sample their hopefully Punjabi Desi Fayre.
Drinks were sorted before we waded through the extensive menu. A bottle of Fanta (€3.00) and a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€6.00) were secured.
The extensive menu was recorded, having seen part of it online already, I knew that the Lamm Karahi is why I was here. The description of the ingredients: Ginger, Garlic, Tomato – is true to a Desi Masala. Not the Onion & Capsicum stir-fry abominations which the Mainstream restaurants across the land get away with. Fisch Karahi Masala (€26.99) may be one for the future. Fish Karahi, mmmm.
The banner on each page of the Mains assured us that our Dish would be accompanied by Salad, a Dessert and Chai. The choice of Tandoori Bread or Rice was a given. The universal price for all Lamb Curry ( €24.99) felt justified.
As the menu was sprinkled with Deutsch, some of the traditional Dishes were not recognised by Marg. She considered Lamm mit Paprika until I translated, no Capsicum! Aloo Gosht or Gobi Gosht? Marg chose the latter: Lamm mit Blumkohl.
Paye and Haleem were tucked away at the end. No price quoted, I wonder what the demand is for these Punjabi delicacies in Kaarst? Of greater attraction to Hector, Kofta (various), Shami and Seekk Kebab were also available, served with the same accompaniments as our choices. The good people of Kaarst may have won a watch.
An Interesting Salad was brought to the table. Beneath the dressing lay Grapes, Sweetcorn, Tomato, Apple, Kidney Beans, shredded Carrot & Cabbage, plus some green stuff. Rather than tear in, we both maintained the integrity of the Salad, what else might come?
It was during the efficacious thirty minute wait for the food to be prepared, that Mein Host arrived. Ahmed appreciated that we had not just happened to be in Kaarst. I decided not to reveal – Curry-Heute – at this time.
He told us that in Pakistan, Scottish music is oft a feature at weddings. My fellow countrymen going back to their roots, but taking the adopted culture with them?
Ahmed verified our Order. That we had asked for Bread and no Rice was confirmed, however, Ahmed insisted that we should try his Rice. He promised Chai afterwards which I immediately refused. The Hector was then assured that Tea without milk could be provided.
I went out ot the garden to get the photos. There I spotted the sign (below) promoting the Kebabs, the Streetfood.
Three sets of tea-lights were lit.
In time, Ahmed brought all the food to the table.
The Rice proved to be a portion of Pilau Matar. Hector having Rice with Karahi, the chaps back home would not serve me this. The Peas were of course, welcomed as another Interesting Vegetable. A tray of Dips was brought also, all home-made we were proudly told, the full array. Ahmed admitted that these were accompaniments for the Starters but was clearly keen to show them off. The menacing Green Chilli pulp sat in the centre: Achtung!
Two Roti, quartered, were presented. Wholemeal, not my preferred Flour, though this suited Marg. The Bread would turn crispy, I was now glad we had Rice. Between us, we would take care of six of the eight quarters.
Before I addressed the main event, I arranged Rice and Salad on the plate, no eating directly from the karahi today.
Lamm Karahi
The large Lamb Chop came as a surprise. On-the-bone, the Meat had not been discussed, this was a veritable bonus. Decanting the Boneless pieces to the plate confirmed there was plenty of eating here.
The Masala was classic Punjabi Karahi. Thick, Tomato-based, a Desi Masala. However, there were no Whole Spices, what was in here remained a secret.
The Spice hit the palate first, I had to wait a few moments for the Flavours to reveal themselves. There was nothing pronounced e.g. Clove, Cumin. This Masala was well balanced, truly enjoyable. One thing was immediately apparent, this was not Deutsche Curry.
Big Seasoning, Big Flavours, eating this creation was going to be a joyful experience.
The Meat was super-tender, especially the Lamb Chop. Umami, the meatiness was to the fore, but not necessarily more. The Lamb was not giving back the Spice. However, there was lots more to get to grips with.
Diversity, I was enjoying the Peas Pilau, the unusually Fruity Salad surprised me. Perhaps the South Africans know what they are doing having Fruit with Curry?
The final pieces of Meat were taken from the karahi and smothered with the retained Masala. My last mouthfuls were Curry & Rice, most unusual having ordered – Karahi. I just about managed to clear my plate.
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Lamm mit Blumenkohl
With the Masala at an absolute minimum, this Curry was far from anything served in the Mainstream Deutsche Curry Houses. This was a Desi Curry, surely Chefs across the land cannot be afraid of letting the public see this?
As Marg arranged her Curry on her plate, it became apparent that not only was there Lamb and Cauliflower present, Potato was in there too: Aloo Gobi Gosht!
Marg kept offering me a Soupçon. I declined these offers oft, concentrating on maintaining the Flavours on my own palate. In time I relented, a piece of Cauliflower crossed the table.
The moistness impressed, the texture was that of well cooked Cauliflower, this was not al dente. Not having had the Lamb here, I wonder if Chef had simply added Meat to the prepared Aloo Gobi?
Marg offered a few words:
A large portion of Salad arrived at the table and we wiated until the main course arrived before devouring it.
My main dish was full of cooked and spiced cauliflower and potato with small pieces of lamb. The flavour was refreshingly spicy and I used Bread to pick up the food. The taste made my lips tingle and I thoroughly enjoyed the overall flavours of the vegetables and the tender meat.
There were some strips of ginger to add to the taste. When I added Salad, the dish became even more enjoyable. What a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
The young chap cleared the table then brought the promised – Beilagen. Two micro-Desserts. One was Sweet Rice with an Almond, the other Rice Noodles in what Marg interpreted as condensed milk. .
With one dry Dessert and one wet, we had half each, then switched. Both tasty, and Hector having Dessert, most unusual.
Ahmed brought two cups of Chai, I declined mine, milky. He remembered, and so brought an honourable, and much larger cup of proper Tea.
Whenever I eat Desi Karahi Gosht, it is generally in less salubrious surroundings. A meal for the eating, a quick in and out. Today was an event, we had – dined.
Marg – overall the meal was a great pleasure.
The Bill
€59.98 (£50.40) Ahmed informed me that here was a technical issue with their card reader. I was given IBAN details. With my card pre-loaded with Euros, I managed to make the payment without incurring charges.
The Aftermath
Time for Curry-Heute to be revealed. Time for the rest of the World to be made aware that a half hour west of Düsseldorf lies – Rice & Spice – a truly authentic Curry House, not just one that claims it is. There’s way too many of them. After Indian Mango, and its successor Dessi Tadka (München) plus Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin), Rice & Spice is only the third in all of Deutschland that the Hector feels is worthy of celebration.
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2025 Menu
