Wilton Street in the heart of Bradford, the first place I ever parked in this city in the mid 1990s, in order to go searching for Curry.
Des N Pardes (Wilton St, Bradford BD5 0AX) opened ten months ago in a building which was once the most basic of Curry Houses, but had lain derelict for some time. Earlier this year, Dr. Stan and The Rickmeister, aka The Man from Bradford, visited Des N Pardes, good things were reported.
The Rickmeister is associated with those who have arranged for proper Münchener Oktoberfestbier to be served in Bradford this weekend. The Hector was not missing out.
At 15.45, Hector Naypals arrived at Des N Pardes, nobody there. I would dine alone. The place is unrecognisable compared to, lets face it, what was a dump of a venue when last here.
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Greeted as – Boss – throughout my visit, the young chap serving brought the menu, water, then a generous complimentary Salad and Raita. It was a lady who was in the kitchen.
The minimal menu had only four main courses the Hector could consider. Without a dining partner, the kilo of Butt Lamb Karahi (£34.95) will have to wait for another day. The half kilo (£19.95) seemed disproportionately expensive. I asked about Chef’s Daily Special (£11.95) – Keema with Daal Makhani, topped with Egg – enough already. Actually, this almost tempted, I assured the waiter that if my wife was here, she would be having this. Had it not been visit #1, I might have succumbed, but let’s see what their actual Curry is about before going exotic.
From the House Special Handi section of the menu – Lamb Masala (£12.95) accompanied by a Plain Naan (£1.95) became the choice for Curry-Heute.
Whilst I waited, time to consider the ongoing events on the eastern end of the Mediterranean. Two years and two days since the October 7 massacre, finally a ceasefire is in sight. Maybe the beginning of the end of this needless slaughter. Having been to what may become – Palestine – and having traversed the West Bank oft, empirically I have come to know that the majority just want to get on with their lives. Only the proscribed want eternal chaos/destruction – taking the lives of others.
Tomatoes, big slices, fresh and tasty. With the sharp Raita added, quite a treat. The Onions and Cucumber were incidental, and let’s not mention the green.
The main event arrived within fifteen minutes of ordering.
The Naan was quartered, now we know to ask for – whole Bread. Perforated, to prevent it rising, I don’t know why they do this either. Still, Bread too hot to touch, blisters forming, light and fluffy, excellent. Having had nothing to eat since yesterday, I managed three quarters.
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Handi – Lamb Masala
Topped with Ginger Strips, a threat of Coriander and two large pieces of cooked-in Tomato, well presented, and hot food! The Meat appeared to be significantly larger than the customary – Bradford-small. Super-soft at times, tougher at others, one wonders if there are two pots, or maybe just The Big Pot being topped up with fresher Meat. Whatever, the Meat was not giving any Flavour other than its own. Spices had not been absorbed.
The Seasoning was decidedly low, consequently, the Flavours were subdued. No Whole Spices, no Spice a standout other than that which was steadily building the Spice Level. A standard Masala found anywhere across the nation, the Herb-rich Bradford Taste was not present. For a Curry in Bradford, this tasted – unfinished, else, the Chef at Des N Pardes had no intention of creating what makes this city famous. Lahori Cuisine I conclude, not Bradford. I didn’t ask for – Desi style, would this have made a difference?
Did I enjoy the food? Of course, it was Curry, but not why I came to Bradford. There is more on the menu to explore, so a return is likely, especially if I can find a willing partner to share the kilo.
Open daily at 10.00 for Desi Nashta, Des N Pardes becomes an attractive venue when an early start demands an early Curry.
The Bill
£14.90 Paid by bank transfer, cumbersome.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was presented and Curry-Heute outlined.
Des N Pardes becomes the twenty-seventh Bradford Curry House to be reviewed in Curry-Heute.
Two new venues have appeared nearby. Miwan Restaurant next door to Des N Pardes has a Middle Eastern – Afghan menu. Lawi Restaurant now occupies the building where I had my first ever Bradford Curry, a Grill House, no need to go there.
2025 Menu
