A day in München is not going to pass without a visit to Dessi Tadka (Hofmannstraße 43, 81379 München, Deutschland) which, as the name suggests, serves proper Curry in the – home-cooked – style. Again, to fit in with the model of the day which included a trip out to Kloster Andechs, Curry had to be early. Dr. Stan was almost in tow, but decided his Frühstuck had not fully digested. An Apfelstrudel at the Kloster would hardly make up for missing out on Curry.
And so, Hector headed off on the U3 from Marienplatz to Aidenbachstrasse, arriving at the restaurant at 12.20. With only another customers present, I suspect they do their business on midweek lunchtimes. There was no sign of Herr Battra, Mein Host and owner. Neither of the two Chefs known to me were present either. I took a small table in what is effectively the corridor connecting the front seating area from the more salubrious rear.
Fisch Chettinad, not on the menu, is what I was hoping for. I asked the main man today if Chef Pintu was here. Apparently not. I asked if Fisch Chettinad was available, same response. Time to try something different then.
Home-Style Fish Curry (€20.90) was the obvious thing to have. With rehydration in mind I asked for a large bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50). I was directed to a 0.4l glass of Mineralwasser (€3.00). This was most helpful, if a second glass was required, it would be more volume than the large 0.75l bottle and better value. Hector likes better value.
A chap with a dog was the only other customer I could see. Photographic opperchancities were therefore severely restricted. I have posted enough photos of Dessi Tadka, their dedicated page captures the ambiance.
There appeared to be a lot of staff, I wonder what they get to do? Particularly the younger ones. Today’s main man brought the food.
In terms of Rice, we are very much in Euroland. Who can eat an entire handi of Rice? I took a liberal portion, more than I knew I would manage. There was going to be wastage regardless.
Additionally, a plate with a Lemon Wedge, sliced raw Onion, and a worrying abundance of whole Green Chillies was presented as a Side. Two of these items three would be put to good use. How many Chillies did I need?
Home-Style Fish Curry
Ginger Strips and a modest sprinkling of Coriander topped the Masala whose appearance was heading towards an authentic Shorva. This was not a Mainstream blended Masala.
Two marvellously large pieces of Pollock, plus a third smaller piece, were placed over the Rice. Already, everything sat before me was making a mockery of my last Fish Curry at Madhras Dosa (Glasgow). Large pieces of Tomato, half cooked-in, were found also as well as four, smaller, whole Green Chillies. As ever, I retained half of the complex looking Masala for later.
A sharp sense of Spice hit the palate. There had been no discussion of Spice Level, extra Chillies were clearly sat before me. If this was the starting point, where did Chef think I was going to end up? The Hector has had his moment of torture this week already. My next intake included one of the four, embedded, smaller Chillies. Enough already. Three Chillies would be set aside, and the larger ones never touched.
Unusually, the Fish was giving off definite notes of – fishiness – yet on chewing, the Seasoning felt way down. Time to add the Onions, then squeeze the Lemon.
The Onions added crunch, an alternative Texture. The Lemon, added Citrus, which, for me, always works in a Curry. As I broke it down into smaller and smaller pieces, approaching – flakes – I marvelled at the Fish. The Texture was spot on. A bit of chewing, certainly not – rubbery. Why so white? Does this mean Fish Curry is comparable to Chicken Curry in terms of a lack of permeability? No way, not if one has had Chef Pintu’s Fisch Chettinad, and the Hector has had plenty.
The Masala, I was coming to terms with. Far from excessive, I found myself pouring on the remainder. No Clove or Cinnamon was evident here. Then I found a Green Cardamom – Desi, man! Today, the definite – fishiness – was complementing the Earthy Flavours from the Masala. The Seasoning was all in the latter which maybe was doing the heavy lifting. I write often that I find Fish Curry to be even more satisfying than – Gosht. The problem is in finding one as good as this.
I managed to put away my frustration at not securing the Chettinad. This became an even simpler task when one of the great Euro Curry House comedy moments occurred.
Would you like more Rice?
Seriously? Maybe one day I should patrol a Curry House with a clipboard and record just how many grains our Euro counterpart Curry eaters can manage?
Having already drawn a line on the plate for what I thought I might manage, once the Fish and Masala was gone, that was it, the end.
Why does nobody ever ask – would you like more Curry? Another Lamb Chop?
To be fair, the Hector has enjoyed many a complimentary Soupçon – you must try this – being the operative introduction.
Over the decades of Curry eating in München, first at Indian Mango and now Dessi Tadka, the end of the meal is not usually the absolute end.
Chai – said the chap as he placed it on the table.
I cannot drink this.
And so it was wheeched away. Tea with milk, not for Hector.
The Bill
€23.90 (£21.01)
The Aftermath
If I escaped quickly there was the possibility of taking an earlier train to Tutzing, and so I was not for hanging around. It could well be a full year before I return to München, so no point introducing myself to the current staff.
