Glasgow – Punjabi – In Search of Desi Qorma

Karahi Gosht may well be the Curry which features most in these pages, however, Lamb Desi Qorma conveys the greatest satisfaction. With the demise of Karahi Palace /Handy by Darbar, The Village is the only source of this elusive Curry in Glasgow, though theirs takes second place to Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin). Hector cannot be in the German capital as often as he would like.

Curryspondent Bill has kept tab on this over the years. He arranged with Harry of Punjabi (560 Paisley Road West, Ibrox, Glasgow, G51 1RF) for a bespoke Desi Qorma to be prepared. Five agreed to join Hector this afternoon at 16.30, just after the opening time.

Marg and Hector arrived first, Jazzy was there to greet, no Harry today. There was time to take note of the new, brighter décor.

Meanwhile, Jazzy had complimentary Poppadoms and Spiced Onions on the table in a flash. Marg would ask for Mango, which was soon presented.

Eventually the six were assembled. Steve by car, Michael by bus. Stewart texted to ask which Subway Station is closer, Cessnock or Ibrox. Dr. Stan, mistakenly assumed Cessnock and so was last to arrive.

Ibrox – is always the answer!

Soft drinks (£2.95) for everyone, five bottles of Sparkling Water (350ml) and one Irn Bru. With the choice of two available, I could still hear – a pint of lager – ringing in my ears, evoking the early visits here back in the 1970s. Tap water would be provided later. Some spotted that Southside Water tastes different from that which comes out of the pipes north of the Clyde.

Jazzy asked when I first set foot in – Modern Punjabi – as it was called back then. I though the mid 1970s, Jazzy stated that 1978 was when it all started. Bill ran the place back then, he is still involved – a finger in this pie.

Jazzy informed us that his nephew would be coming to assist. When he entered the premises carrying a big pot, I had to wonder. Jazzy admitted that Desi Qorma is not a Curry he is necessarily familiar with, yet there is a Punjabi Korma on the menu.

The bespoke Curry aside, there was something else on the agenda today. First experienced at the much missed Punjabi – Charing X, there was no way we were coming to Harry’s House and not having the wonderful Keema Padora (£7.50).

Marg agreed to share, everyone else was up for it. I suggested five, Jazzy advised that four would be enough.

Jazzy was clearly taken aback when we all ordered Lamb Desi Qorma. Had he not been made fully aware of why we were all here? Jazzy pointed out that the Lamb would be on-the-bone, again, why we were here.

For accompaniments, the menu had to be provided. Marg would stick to her Chapatti (£1.00), the rest of us – Rice, enough Bread afore was anticipated.

Mushroom Pilau Rice (£4.00) for Steve and Hector. Jazzy offered a Special Rice and Jeera Rice neither of which is on the menu. Special Rice for Dr. Stan and Michael, Jeera for Stewart. Sorted.

The wait for the Starters was not long. Takeaway customers started to arrive, phone orders also. Still, Jazzy admitted that it has been a difficult year.

Keema Padora

Served in quarters, Marg worked out that if she took her declared one slice, that left three for everyone else. So when she took a second piece, it was the Hector who lost out. What is this sharing lark anyway?

Puri – is how the menu defines the Bread. Puffy as much as – risen, for once, being quartered makes sense. Folding over a sector, the ideal way to eat this gem of a Starter.

It’s all about the combination of Puri and Keema. Dry, no Oil, a mini Mince Curry, rich in Methi, whilst the Spice and the Seasoning also stood out. This is simply pleasure in the extreme. Dr. Stan would later suggest that we come here for Keema Padora as a main course and share a third as – Dessert. Share? Aye right.

Marg’s enthusiasm was disclosed thus: We waited for the starter to arrive and it was freshly cooked puffy bread with a good helping of rich Keema sauce with raw onion and coriander. An excellent mixture of flavours and I was very keen to have a second one.

Further comments are posted below, needless to say, this was an outstanding feature of  the  overall meal.

Jazzy confirmed that a break was required before the serving of the main course. Nephew got into the act and took the group photo.

Marg’s Chapatti was served whole, she does not mind the inclusion of Wholemeal Flour, Hector misses the traditional Chapatti, now only found in Bradford Curry Houses, it appears.

The Mushroom Rice was served in an appropriate volume. Straightforward Pilau, sliced Mushrooms, fine, but not in the same league as across the river at Curry Pot or Chimes of India. There, larger, fresh Mushrooms reign supreme, and much more Flavoursome Rice of Biryani quality.

The Jeera Rice was straightforward Basmati with embedded Cumin Seeds. The Special Rice featured Mushroom, Onion and slivers of Capsicum. Yes, Michael and Dr. Stan were willingly adding the dreaded Green Mush to their Curry.

Hot plates, hot karahi, much appreciated.

Lamb Desi Qorma

Sitting opposite Dr. Stan, we looked at the presentation of the karahi, starting at our end of the table.

Where was the Masala?

Had it been served as their very own Desi Lamb (£12.95), this Curry would have ticked all the boxes. A seriously Dry Curry, with an absolute Minimal Masala, as the Hector seeks his Curry/Karahi, but this is not how a Desi Qorma looks. There was a hint of Creaminess in the Masala, not the more abundant Yoghurt associated with this Curry.

So, how much effective communication/research had there been between Hector-Bill-Harry-Jazzy? It was now very much a case of enjoy the Curry set before us.

Topped with Coriander and the sliced Green Chillies as prominent as the Sucky Bones, appealing. As ever, I retained half for later, there was next to no Oil on the base of the karahi thereafter.

What a lot of Lamb, my count reached fifteen substantial pieces of Meat. Dr. Stan’s bone debris pile rapidly built up, the Hector definitely had more Meat than seen across the table. Marg would offload some Meat in my direction then Stewart’s, way too big a portion for her to manage.

The Desi credentials accrued. Whole Black Cardamom, Star Anise and a Herb Stem on my plate, in addition to the Sucky Bones. Cinnamon was revealed elsewhere.

Both the Seasoning and the Spice Level could be described as – medium. Nothing here to cause anyone distress.

The Tenderest of Meat, leg of Lamb, suggested by the bones. A subtle Creaminess emerged, but not the hoped for – Citrus – associated with the Yoghurt in a Desi Qorma.

I felt I had already eaten well by the time I reached part two. Still nine pieces of Meat left and Marg trying to interrupt my strategy by adding more. There was even more Flavour emanating from the reserve, it had further time to sit and absorb the Flavours from the Minimal Masala. An excellent Curry, but …

There appears to be a consensus:

Stewart – Good curry, well-spiced, and plenty of meat and sucky bones to sate the appetite. Didn’t expect to have it with rice, and that’s only because it was a pleasure to first revisit several slices of the Padora  – my star of the show – after however many years.

Dr. Stan – Excellent Keema Padora, spicy mince and fluffy bread. Good and spicy curry with plenty of meat though not the rich masala I might have expected. Tasty special rice.

Marg – Hot plates arrived then a large karahi dish with a very generous helping of meat was given to all of us. The lamb was very tender with lamb on the bone as well. Good bones with extra flavour. I thoroughly enjoyed the dry sauce with the Chapatti. Ginger burst, coriander, cinnamon sticks and a thick sauce made the dish memorable. Very enjoyable.

Steve – The starter – Spicy, herby Keema served on very soft, slightly sweet Padora. Very moreish! 

The curry –  large helping of tender and delicious pieces of lamb on the bone in a very dry sauce with the predominant flavours coming from whole spices, garlic and ginger.
Accompaniment – although perfectly edible, the Mushroom Rice was a bit too flavoured and gloopy for my liking. It reminded me of – Bachelors savoury rice – from the 70s.  Next time, with this curry, I’ll get an ordinary pilau rice.

The Bill

£141.50  Having been charged around the same as the standard portion of the Desi Lamb, we did very well.  Thanks, Bill, Harry and Jazzy. 

The Aftermath

There have been a few photos of Jazzy and Hector posted over the years, time for an update.

Hector now awaits Bill’s reaction, there shall no doubt be one, but will it be posted? 

The search for Desi Qorma continues.

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