Back in Glasgow, for a very, very, long time, relatively speaking, time to restore the tour of the Southside Curry Cafes, 2026. After last week’s near excessive Lamb intake in Manchester, there had to be something completely different. Monday is Bateera Day at Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2), Hector was game to once again take on – the wee burd.
Michael, of this parish, that’s when he’s not in Türkiye, has expressed a keenness of late to join the Hector for a nibble. 14.30 became the rendezvous time.
Michael had already made it clear that Quail was not for him, too footery. That is part of its joy, but not for everyone. Other ready creations would be on offer.
I believe Zahir was summoned from the kitchen by the young chap behind the counter when I asked for Bateera.
You remember Karahi today? – was his greeting.
I came for Bateera.
Michael was being denied the pleasure of what Lord Clive of Crawley described as – Best Lamb Karahi ever. Today, the Hector was not up to sharing the kilo of Lamb Karahi (£35.00). Zahir talked Michael through the display of trays in the glass display counter. Alo Bengan (£5.00) was duly chosen, Aubergine Potato.
We both ordered a Nan (£1.25) which was certainly more Bread than we would need. But let’s celebrate the realistic pricing. I did advise Michael that with the presentation of Salad and Raita, plus the 50p sitting-in surcharge, per item I conclude, he would be paying more than first seen.
The sign at the till saying – Cash Only – was a bummer.
We tried all three booth tables and fitted most comfortably into the one nearest the counter. The heater was in situ on the floor, but not switched on. Despite a winter chill outside, inside was comfortable. No – alien – would command the heater today.
The Salad and Raita duly arrived, brought by a mature lady. One day, Zahir will line up all his staff to be made famous. More napkins and cutlery were secured. Eating Quail is a messy business. Michael’s Curry arrived first.
Alo Bengan
The portion size seemed miserable. More of a snack than a main meal. If one is particularly hungry, order two! It won’t break the bank. The Potato clearly had time to absorb the Oily Shorva, the Aubergine, presumably mushy. If this is your cup of tea, enjoy. The Hector would willingly have this as a Side and maybe have no Rice/Bread.
Nice Curry, shame about the Naan – was Michael’s verdict. Flavoursome, a decent level of hotness.
Bread not their forte – he added.
The Naan, served whole, round, so presumably Tawa cooked, not Tandoor, had perforation holes across the bulk of the centre, a la Manchester. I cannot find an example of this having been done here before, so why now? The rising of the Bread had subsequently been limited, the hoped for level of fluffiness was therefore only attained in part. Tough edges.
Marg and Hector had some Middle Eastern Bread at La Viva Cafe (Preston) en route to Glasgow last Friday, Pitta beyond anything seen normally in the UK, a delight. Michael, of course, eats similar for half of the year. Middle Eastern Bread often has the – wow – factor, refer also to the number of Naan enjoyed over the years in Athena.
The Bread still did its job, a Dipping Fest ensued.
Bateera
The exterior of the pair of Quail looked to be a different dark brown today, overenthusiastic reheating? It’s all about what surrounds the Quail, the micromanaging of the Meat content of this Dish has to be accepted. An Oily Shorva in parts, honourable Masala once this was dealt with. With Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies cooking in on the plate, plus Coriander, a lot going on.
One begins with a Dip! Masses of Flavour from the Shorva. The Big Clove Blast! I felt I had not left Manchester. Legs next, there were four, twa’ burds. The easiest Meat to access, big sook #1. Discard-the-Bone. A bowl had been provided for the carcases.
With the Oily Shorva taken care of, the quality of the remaining Masala stood out, a blended mash perhaps. The Seasoning was a la Hector, the Spice Level dictated as and when a Bullet Chilli was encountered.
Zahir was out to check on our progress.
It’s spicy?
You added Chillies!
Whole Peppercorns were eaten with care, the Black Cardamom located and duly discarded before it was too late. The bulk of the Meat, Breast feels an absurdity, was eased off with the spoon. In time all Bones had been set aside, the final minutes, an eating frenzy in comparison to the careful dissection which preceded it.
The rewards were achieved, satisfying warmth and joyful Favours on the palate. This Curry exactly suited my requirements today.
Both bowls were wiped clean. We justified the two Naan, almost.
I asked Zahir if we could pay by card. The wish was granted.
The Bill
£21.50
The Aftermath
Much time was spent at the facilities washing the face. Although the hand drier gave off quite a blast, the Hector was not for getting down on his knees.
The Cumin Seeds, hiding in their usual places, were discovered as the afternoon progressed.