Biryani House (157 Allison St, Govanhill, Glasgow G42 8RY) was spotted from the bus on Monday en route to Shahi Mahal, another addition to the Southside Curry Cafe scene, and an obvious magnet for the Hector.
Biryani, not Curry, though online research did suggest Curry would be available. In keeping with Hector’s ongoing avoidance of another Lamb overdose, a Vegetable Biryani (£6.50) may well have suited. There was no way of knowing what was about to unfold, read on, this was a memorable afternoon.
Entering the otherwise empty premises at 14.30, Ahmed, Mein Host, may have spotted me taking the exterior photo. A one man show, I immediately verified that Biryani House has only been open for three to four months. Glancing up at the board, I was informed that there was no printed menu. Fish Biryani (£8.00) was mooted, however, a list of Curry options was offered.
Fish Curry? – the wish was granted … with some Rice.
Ahmed suggested this could take some ten minutes, I assured him there was no rush. I took the optimum seat at one of the three tables. Biryani House seats twelve. Ahmed disappeared to the rear, yet a grill/oven, microwave and some other sort of table top cooker was in the preparation area front of house.
With somewhat garish plastic table coverings and bare walls, the décor might be described as either rustic, or unfinished. Having returned to the front of house, Ahmed got busy chopping some Coriander. At some point he raised the matter of Spice Level. Above medium – was agreed. That I was willing to have food at this level evidently pleased him, no need to hold back. Flipping between the front and the rear of the premises, Ahmed methodically progressed towards serving my Curry. A half hour had passed when he brought over a plate of Salad, to keep me going.
In Curry-Heute, I have oft referred to Modest Salad, to differentiate from a typical plateful, this was something else.
That would feed a family – I remarked.
The garnish, a slice of Lime, was the only notable stand out feature to what superficially appeared to be a simple Salad of Tomato and Cucumber. OK the Coriander, stirred through was copious. I was not prepared for the next moment – Wow!
Close examination revealed loads of finely sliced Garlic, a brave addition to a Salad. In addition to the distinctive Flavour from the Coriander, there was a sharpness I have only experienced when making Peanut Masala Chat. Had some of the Chat Masala mix been added here?
Later I asked: Lemon Juice and Black Pepper were revealed as the key ingredients.
Despite thoroughly enjoying this entrée, I knew I had to keep some back in case the Curry required some Diversity.
Ahmed brought out the grill pan to show me a tray of Fish. For how many was he cooking?
Rohu – he informed me, from the rivers of his native Bangladesh. Carp – is how we identify this outrageously healthy Fish. It would need twenty minutes to cook. The Rohu, had been cut to create Fish Steaks as Mother used to present Cod in Hector’s formative years. I was warned that there would be bones. In time, he gave a lesson on all the fresh water fish available to him, and the hefty prices charged for some.
I watched the artistry as a plate with three substantial pieces of Rohu was adorned with further Tomato and Cucumber, before a family sized portion of Basmati was placed centrally.
This was for me? Grilled Fish with Rice, not a Biryani, and certainly not Curry. Hector’s Masala Fish Creation at Kabana, denied last week in Manchester, came to mind. I was up for this. The ongoing, but temporary, avoidance of Lamb.
Grilled Fish with Rice
As I adjusted from expectation to reality, my gob had never been so smacked, when I saw the remaining three pieces of Rohu become – Curry. Hector was about to be served – The Works. The Salad was set aside pro tem, where does one begin?
Fish Curry
Three substantial Rohu Steaks, with Spice clearly absorbed, sat in what looked like an Oily Shorva in parts, not quite a Masala in others. Finely chopped Onions and Green Chillies, cut lengthways, were in there too. The Toppings, more fresh Coriander and even more sliced Garlic. The Hector was not going to be popular this evening.
I transferred some of the Rice to the Curry plate, all was set.
A mixture of the Oily Shorva and Rice created the second – Wow! – moment of the day. Those who would have shunned this know not what they miss.
Breaking the firm Fish with a fork, the interior was white. So, minor penetration then.
Fish Curry, Hector’s crowning glory, and so hard to source in the style sought after. I couldn’t believe the Flavours given off by this spiced Rohu. The Fisch Chettinad as formerly served at Indian Mango (München) and subsequently at Dessi Tadka, has set the standard. Today I was clearly tasting something at this level, the third – Wow! -moment.
This is Madras hot – Ahmed felt obliged to inform me. The – heat – was never going to be an issue, this was all about the Flavour. Cue the crispy edges of the Rohu, – my wife would love this – I relayed across the counter.
And so, we chatted as I ate. Time to introduce the Calling Card.
A Fish Curry with an intense Flavour of – Fish – in addition to the Spices. Not too much to expect one would think, experience reveals otherwise. Black Peppercorns and the inevitable Black Cardamom featured in the Masala. The Cardamom was caught in time. The bones, why does The Queen Mother come to mind, great care was taken. Monday’s Bateera at Shahi Mahal proved to be excellent preparation. One bone became wedged in the middle of the top set of gnashers. Toothpick provided, it wouldn’t shift. It took ten minutes to work out I was addressing the wrong gap.
Sucky Bones! The – meat – attached to the spine bone was sooked off, joy.
Debris apart, I cleared the plate, this was the strategy, take the rest home. Ahmed was on board with this. Two meals in effect, how is he going to make a profit if this is what he dishes out? The local MP and his wife were here yesterday, they too were given the full Biryani House treatment.
Originally employed in Whitechapel, Ahmed has been working in Glasgow for some years but did not disclose where. Curry in Whitechapel has featured in these pages regularly over the years, Punjabi Cuisine. Ahmed realises he is surrounded by this different style of cooking here in the Southside, he definitely has something different to offer.
No price had ever been mentioned/agreed, I already had a sum in mind that I would pay, regardless. Oh, and there was a – Cash Only – sign, slightly obscured on the wall.
The Bill
£16.99 A card payment would have been accepted, however, I had my cash looked out, and paid the sum I already had in mind.
The Aftermath
Not content with just packing the Fish & Rice plate, a minor work of art was created, another photo. With the Salad remnants too, the weight of the Takeaway bag was substantial, as was the aroma that would accompany me for the rest of the day.
I’ll be back. Ahmed is keen to show off other delights, and has invited me to contact him in advance. However, remaining true to this Blog, I must establish the efficacy of his Curry menu, that means Lamb.
