Loanhead – The Radhuni – By Invitation

It is – The Glorious Twelfth – Hector and Marg are dining at The Radhuni (93 Clerk St, Loanhead EH20 9RE Scotland) in the east of Scotland. In the aftermath of the 2018 Scottish Curry Awards, Scott of – Hotels PR – contacted Hector, an invitation to visit and review The Radhuni was forthcoming. The Chef, Ashok Ram, had just won Chef of the Year (Industry Choice). This is not to be confused with Taj Tandoori (Prestwick) who won Chef of the Year (Voter’s Choice) and was the locus of Hector’s last Scottish Curry a mere week ago. Who wins Awards?

Hector unashamedly favours the Punjabi Cuisine served in the West of Scotland, Hector’s Hinterland. To be invited by Scott to review a Bangladeshi Restaurant in the east of Scotland was brave, to say the least.

Our booking at The Radhuni was for 18.00. Having to avoid Glasgow’s city centre due to the Cycling, part of the ongoing European Championships, meant using the M8 just as the football traffic was building up around Ibrox. We arrived at 18.20. The final stretch from the Edinburgh Bypass was quite familiar, Marg and Hector were here last year when we finally got around to visiting the now – World Famous – Rosslyn Chapel which is only minutes from Loanhead.

The exterior of The Radhuni gives little clue as to what lies behind the modest shop frontage. Even as we passed the reception area for Takeaways and approached the Bar, I was still not prepared for what lay beyond. We were greeted by the Head Waiter who thankfully was expecting us and were led into the Restaurant proper. The room adjacent to the Bar is large and spacious. This gives way to the – Party Room – which is also in two parts. The far end was occupied by a group, here to celebrate Ian’s Birthday. There was the ritual cake. Happy Birthday, Ian.

We were shown to a small table in the main dining area, the tables around the wall were quite close to each other, however, there were also tables mid-room, this was as spacious a Restaurant as I have encountered. With tablecloths and place settings, this was a Pukka venue, quite different from the venues I usually frequent in the West. We were here – to dine, three other sets of Diners were also present.

The Menus were brought and the Drinks Order taken. As is our preference, a Large Bottle of Sparkling Water was ordered. We began to study the very long Menu, one wonders how a Restaurant can sustain this number of Dishes and the fresh ingredients required. Lamb Chops were not on the Menu which was surprising given the number of Tandoori options. I made the decision to forgo Starters and share a Vegetable Side, Aloo Gobi Massalam (£4.50). What is this with sharing? The offer of Poppadoms etc was declined, they can needlessly take the edge off the appetite.

The Lamb Main Courses are all – Boneless – there was no mention of – Desi/Apna, proof if required that The Radhuni is a Mainstream Bangladeshi Restaurant. Marg and I both spotted the Rogan Fish (£10.25) at the same instant. Marg knew I would have to order this. Outstanding Fish Curry is hard to get in the West of Scotland, I could not pass on the possibility. And after the debacle of – was it a Bhuna or a Rogan Josh? – at the Happy Indian Tandoor (Praha) two nights ago, I was keen to once again sample the Curry which was a Hector staple for so many years. A Fish – Rogan Josh – this would be a first.

Marg waded through the long list. The penultimate Curry in – The Radhuni Specialities – was Shatkora Lamb (£9.95), this too was something different.

Marg was set to order her now customary solitary Chapatti (£1.60), however, I persuaded her to adopt our usual system of sharing Bread and Rice. With the Vegetable Side there was no need for exotic Rice, Boiled (£2.95) would suffice, plus a Paratha (£3.50).

Until this point, Habibur Khan, Mein Host, had been busy in the kitchen where he works on a Sunday. With the the formalities completed, I had to ask him about the ingredients in the Fish Rogan. Pimento – was mentioned first in the given description of this Curry. I asked whether these were closer to Capsicum or Chillies. The answer surprised – dried Italian Tomatoes. I would take the risk, hopefully I would avoid – The Dreaded Capsicum.

It was the Waitress who took our Order. Knowing we were here – by invitation – I suspect she was bemused by our restraint.

We like to order what we think we can eat.
No wastage – was her reply.

With no Poppadoms or Starters accepted we knew we were in for the long wait, hopefully. There was time to take in the surroundings and glimpse at what – les autres – were having. A metal tray with three subdivisions is how the Dishes were presented. I saw a Naan, this looked – Perfect – puffed edges, burnt bits, Large enough to share, a proper Naan.

A full forty minutes had passed when Hot Plates were brought to the table. This was a respectable amount of time, how many venues when it’s this quiet, serve Curry in an instant?

The Waiter who brings the food wheeled out a trolley with the three karahi and the Rice. Watercress was the garnish on all three, as I have come to realise, one should never take Fresh Coriander and Ginger Strips for granted. The Paratha arrived moments later.

The Paratha was poor. The given description said – layered – there was not much evidence here. Layered, Flaky, the Spiral – the three parameters Hector looks for in the Perfect Paratha as featured most recently at Banana Leaf (Glasgow). Today’s Paratha resembled a – Tatty Scone. Compared to the Naan, this was decidedly – Small. I should have asked for a Chilli and Coriander Naan.

We shared the Boiled Rice, a very Modest Portion, there was enough to share given that we had the Bread.

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Rogan Fish

I saw no garnish of – spicy fried tomatoes.  The decent sized pieces of Fish, possibly River Cobbler – Basa were shrouded in a blended Masala. The appearance was very much that of a – Mainstream Curry. There was a sufficient Quantity of Fish which retained its integrity throughout the eating. It is the tendency of Fish to flake whilst cooking which puts many Chefs off presenting a Fish Curry, I have been told. The Masala was quite Viscous and was Tomato-rich. Many venues across the Continent now interpret Rogan Josh as being a Creamy Curry, thankfully Chef Ram retained the tradition of Tomato.

The Flavour of the Fish came across as soon as I started eating which was a good sign. The Spice Level was not demanding, the Seasoning was below that which I seek thus other Flavours did not emerge from the Masala. Strands of Green Capsicum, the – Dreaded Green Mush – were encountered and cast aside. One day Hector will have his way and this – alien ingredient – will be banished from all Curry Houses.

The Fish Rogan was pleasant to eat, enjoyable, and remarkably light. I wouldn’t rush back to Loanhead to have this again, however, later in the Menu (below) was – Garlic Fish – the description of which now intrigues. How many Herbs? Which Herbs? Would Hector have his Methi?

Aloo Gobi

This was a good helping of well cooked Cauliflower and Potato. Syboes had found their way in too. The Masala was Thinner compared to the Fish Rogan and thankfully was not excessive. There was an impressive ratio of Vegetable to Masala.

The Spice Level was once again – Moderate, the Seasoning was also down. Chef was taking no risks. This Side Dish did its job providing an – Interesting Diversity – from the Fish and Masala that was the – Fish Rogan.

Shatkora Lamb

As soon as it arrived, I knew Marg had made the better choice. The Brown, blended Masala appeared to have Yoghurt added to give a slight Creaminess. Marg loves a Creamy Curry, Hector prefers the hint that was here.
Marg did not count the pieces of Meat, training required here, but confirmed it was Substantial. The – rinds of Bangladeshi citric fruit – (Lemon?) were easily spotted, a feature that brought this Curry its distinctiveness.

Lovely citrus, earthy, very tender Lamb – said Marg who was clearly enjoying her Shatkora Lamb.

The Quantity eventually beat Marg so a final Soupçon came my way. The huge Citrus Blast hit immediately, this Curry most certainly had Flavour. The meat gave off its distinctive Lamb Flavour, but not that of the Curry. If I was ordering Shatkora Lamb I would have asked for it to be served a tad more Spicy. Still, this Dish stood out from our choice of three.

The Waiter who brought the food came to clear up. He could help but notice two empty plates (Capsicum excepted) and three shiny karahi.

I will still ask how was everything? – gesturing to empty plates and serving dishes.

Our satisfaction was expressed. Marg remarked that she did not feel stuffed at the end, – content – was her final word on the meal.

Dessert was declined, though Marg did order an – extra hot – Cafe Latte (£2.50). The Waitress brought the Coffee which was as asked for.

The Aftermath

As Marg finished her Coffee so I went back into – Hector mode – once again and photographed the – Chef of the Year Award. The Waitress then led us to the rear of the premises, she was keen to show us what lay beyond the back door.

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I had guessed a car park when I first saw the back door. I was surprised to see raised decking with five tables. One assumes they have made good use of this over the summer, perfect for those who need to make visits outside.

Back in the Restaurant I showed the Waitress and the Head Waiter the Calling Card. We then discussed the regional variations in Curry throughout the UK. India was mentioned and the extent to which the UK has possibly influenced what appears on the Menu across the subcontinent.

My thanks to Habibur and his staff for looking after us so well, and to Scott at – Hotels PR – for arranging this visit.

The people of Loanhead are fortunate in having The Radhuni on their doorstep. It would take many visits to do their Menu justice. The Menu at The Rajhuni is so extensive that, for once on Curry-Heute, this is shown in its entirety.