Glasgow – New Gandhi Indian Restaurant – The Long Overdue Return

Hector is embarrassed. It is over five years since I last set foot in Danny Singh’s Gandhi, now renamed – New Gandhi Indian Restaurant (441 Victoria Rd, Glasgow G42 8RW). New Gandhi is located in the heart of Glasgow’s Southside Curryland, Hector cannot hide his preference for the Curry Cafes in the area over – Mainstream – Restaurants. However, New Gandhi offers authentic Punjabi Desi Cuisine, that which Hector seeks.

A certain social medium invited me to – wave – to Danny as my train approached Queens Park, I decided to keep my visit low key. Let’s see what is on offer. I climbed the stairs at 15.30 and was invited to sit in the room where two couples sat at window tables. My smaller table was adjacent to the corridor, we all had our respective space.

The Menu was brought, as expected, it bore little resemblance to what I had seen five years ago. The prices back then were not sustainable. I glanced at the – Specialities – and then the – Connoisseur Selection – this was not why I was here. Punjabi Desi Dishes – featured a choice of six Lamb Dishes, plus one Fish and one Chicken. Just the one Chicken, we are on the same wavelength. The Fish Tikka Masala (£11.95) is one for the future, Hector is always on the lookout for an impressive Fish Curry. The Punjabi Desi Gosht (£11.95) is served on-the-bone, as are all the Desi Gosht variants.

On my last visit, I was showered with Paratha, today it would be rice: Mushroom Rice (£3.25). A 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.20) would complete the Order.

I was offered the choice of on-the-bone or boneless. Despite the inevitability of receiving less Meat, I took my favoured on-the-bone option. Above medium – (Spice) was also asked for. Poppadoms were mentioned, I wasn’t playing that game. Anyway, I have lost interest in the UK version.

The Waiter asked if this was my first time here, I admitted that it had been some years. Welcome back – was his response.

During the near thirty minute wait for my Curry, the staff engaged my fellow diners. Both were first timers, one couple in particular gave the impression that a – Curry Safari – is their norm. I wonder if they have tried the nearby Curry Cafes? I was tempted to give them my Calling Card, but that would have given me away. Every member of staff who passed me during my wait acknowledged me, waiters, chefs, whoever, most welcoming. I believe all who dined here this afternoon would have felt well looked after.

Mushroom Rice

The large end of a sensible portion, easily enough to share if Bread had been ordered. This was quality Rice, more than just Rice and Mushrooms, one could see that Spices had been mixed through, the root of a Biryani.

Punjabi Desi Gosht

A slice of Red Chilli, Ginger Strips and a threat of Coriander sat atop the Meat and Blended Masala. There was Oil collecting on one side of the karahi, but this was well within acceptable parameters. I counted the Meat into double figures as I arranged it on top of the Rice. Some pieces were decidedly large, I assumed these had the bones, otherwise, bones were not visible.

The first piece of Lamb was decidedly – firm, chewy, the second, so soft. This became the pattern, one piece of Meat had me chew so long, the famous Spicy Nigerian Beef Stew came to mind. Chewy, but not tough, so, I had to work.

The Flavours were slow to emerge. Desi Flavours of sorts – was noted, then I recognised something very familiar. The Masala had soaked into the Mushroom Rice, here was the very Flavour experienced in the Desi Curry at The Village in the years before Curry-Heute. At times, The Village have struggled to replicate this, but here it was. I believe that only by having Lamb on-the-bone can this particular – Desi Flavour – be achieved.

The crunch from the Ginger Strips and the flavour from the Mushrooms complemented the Spice in the Rice. The Meat was giving Flavour, everything was coming together. Only two bones were found in the mass of Meat, neither – sucky. The Red Chilli warmed the palate, more may well have changed the nature of the Dish. When I went to take the last of the Masala, less than a teaspoonful of Oil was on the base of the karahi.

This Curry had pedigree. There was a comforting warmth, a veritable depth of Flavour from this wonderful blend of Herbs and Spice. This indeed was a true Desi Curry, far removed from the – Mainstream.

It was only towards the end of the meal that the waiter asked the customary question.

Yes, very much – was the reply.

The Bill

£17.40 OK, a few quid more than I would pay in the local Curry Cafes, but this is a Restaurant, proper.

The Aftermath

I introduced myself to the waiter – Caine – who had been looking after me, and told him I had been present on the opening night as a guest of Danny. He disappeared for a moment then came back to tell me that Danny had just arrived.

The next ten minutes or so were what makes Hector’s day, talking all things – Curry.

Having congratulated Danny on the quality of the Curry served today, I had to mention last Saturday’s Curry at Syhiba (Wakefield) which was extraordinary. Danny knows of my love of Bradford Curry. Whatever their secrets, Danny is proud of his own Fayre. He told me that he is selling a lot of vegan food currently, though he admitted that they know not what they miss when the – ghee – has to be omitted. Aloo Gobi was mentioned, I told Danny that Yadgar (around the corner) have set the benchmark, he of course is keen for me to return and try his. I shall.

We dismissed the Curry Houses north of the river, Akbar’s excepted. Danny too recognises that the Southside is where Glasgow Curry is at, he therefore has to acknowledge the competition and keep his prices competitive. I told him I was not surprised that he had put them up since the first Menu, which was not sustainable.

Danny outlined his plans for the future. He also pointed to thermal bags in the corner, five delivery drivers would be on duty later. Business is going well.

That New Gandhi is not yet listed in – Glasgow’s Top Rated – is an oversight Hector shall correct, soon. The Fish Tikka Masala and Aloo Gobi will be sampled soonest, then there’s the Gobi Gosht.

Punjabi Desi Cuisine, Hector’s favourite, I’ll be back.