Shahi Mahal (452 Cathcart Rd., Govanhill, Glasgow G40 7B2), in the heart of Govanhill, Glasgow’s – Southside Curry Quarter, is a new addition to the Lahori/Punjabi Curry scene. Discovered on Monday, Hector was straight in to investigate. Zahir, Mein Host, instantly recognised Hector, Rashid at Karahi Palace introduced his friend a year or so back. Zahir is the former Chef at Sheerin Palace, the second of their Chefs to go it alone, Ahmed at Darbar Grill being the other. There is a long history of the Allison Street Chefs moving around.
A day of intense showers in Glasgow, Hector took refuge at Shahi Mahal at 14.00. Zahir was in the same spot, accompanied by a friend. Initially, this appeared to be a one man show, though during my stay, two more staff arrived.
Hector was here for – The Works – a half kilo of Lamb Karahi (£16.00) from the – Desi Asian Style – section of the menu. As these pages record, when done properly, this is the King of Curry. Although not listed on the menu, a Coriander Naan would accompany, plus a Mango Rubicon (£1.00). (The prices quoted are from the Takeaway Menu.) I note the – Desi – section of the menu is not on the electronic display boards. Unlike SW17, Burgers and Pizza are on the menu, this is what the kids go for, a change from what they have at at home.
Before settling down to watch the end of The Famous beating Motherwell on the trusty Oppo, I asked permission to take photos of the premises. Shahi Mahal is the only proper sit-in Curry House on Cathcart Rd., though Waris will squeeze you in at nearby Deira Lahore.
Just after 14.20, the feast began to assemble on the table. Twenty odd minutes to transform pre-cooked Lamb into a Karahi. The Naan was wonderful. Large, with thick edges, sporadic holes towards thinner centre, plenty of burnt blisters, and served – whole! Why ruin a Naan by cutting it up? Behold the splendour.
A Modest Salad and Raita were provided, these would provide a minor distraction during the main event. Zahir eventually would bring more cutlery, I would have managed with the spoon provided for the Karahi.
Lamb Karahi
Fortunately, pictures can paint a thousand words which is better for both Hector and the reader. This was exactly what was hoped for, expected even. The sheer quantity was indulgence, defeat staring me in the face from the outset. It had to be, a portion (£9.00) would not have made the same impact. The customary Ginger Strips and fresh Coriander were complemented by sliced Bullet Chillies. The latter would boost the moderate Spice Level as and when required.
Seasoning! It was there, and at the level I refer to as – brave. It has to be thus else the true Flavours never appear. This Karahi was nothing short of spectacular. One cannot help but make comparisons, the warmth of Flavour that Yadgar achieve was not there, the distinctive Karahi Palace experience neither. This was a Karahi which merits its own category. Peppery, if anything, it was closer to DumPukht than those just mentioned. There was ample evidence of the Tomato base, if Onions were here, they had long been dissolved into the Mash. The Meat varied from superbly Tender, to a bit chewy, or was that just the Hector struggling towards the end.
The Masala was in the correct ratio to the Meat, Sucky Bones were here too. Masala on the Naan, Lamb by the spoon, Salad by the fork, this was a fun way to spend the middle of a Saturday afternoon.
Zahir was serving a family that had arrived, he stopped to check up on my progress. I congratulated him on the – Seasoning – he appeared to recognise what I was getting at. I wonder how often Zahir got to cook this at Sheerin Palace?
Towards the end I spotted whole Green Chillies cooked in. The Oil was never more than a residue. Having avoided sharing a kilo for quite some time, I was determined to do this justice. The doggy bag was considered then dismissed, let’s at least finish the Meat. The Naan had long been abandoned, With the last piece of Lamb taken care of, I accepted that the remaining Masala was beyond my capacity. There was no need to cross the peak threshold of pleasure.
What a Karahi Gosht, hopefully, this will be the first of many enjoyed here. It’s up to the troops to say when they wish to join me.
The Bill
£23.00 No complaints. Zahir would have preferred cash, but took a card payment.
The Aftermath
There had to be a photo of Zahir in his new place of work. I enquired about Rashid’s (Karahi Palace) progress, he’s still in Pakistan.
The menu contains – Kashmiri Korma – my other favourite Curry. Alas, there was either a misunderstanding or it is the case that Zahir’s Kormas all have Coconut. Kofta Anda does make an appearance here, it has to, but there appears to be no fixed pattern to what Zahir puts out.
The Vegetable Curry did look enticing, next time.
And was that Daal Makhani? Mmmm.
