Glasgow – Kebabish Grill – What could go wrong, did go wrong

At the end of 2019, Dr. Stan and Hector visited Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA). Impressed by the Methi Gosht and Namkeen Gosht, this Blog reports that we both felt that Kebabish Grill  was worthy of further visits, as the local Asian community have been assuring the Hector for years. Then there was Lockdown.

Last month, Curryspondent Archie added a comment to Curry-Heute stating that he had particularly enjoyed the Namkeen Gosht at Kebabish Grill. Hector was long overdue a return, today’s visit would only be the fourth review in Curry-Heute.

Arriving just on 14.10, the restaurant was empty, apart from Vijay who greeted and led me to a window table. Both the three course Lunch Menu (£11.95) and the Main Menu were provided. The Lunch Menu was perused, an extra £1.95 for – Lamb – then.

The Hector already knew why he was here – Namkeen Gosht (£14.95). A Plain Nan (£2.50) was a possible accompaniment, I asked for a Coriander Nan, not a problem. A 500ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£2.50) completed the Order.

The juxtaposition of pukka glass and plastic bottle amused. Still, I was having my preferred beverage, not always available in the local Curry Cafes.

Curry Cafes, Kebabish Grill is very much a restaurant. With the retirement of Danny Singh at New Gandhi, a rival purveyor of Punjabi Cuisine, this leaves Anarkali, a Mainstream Curry outlet, as their only proper – restaurant – competition in this part of Govanhill /Queens Park.

The food arrived in a little over ten minutes. I had been prepared for a much longer wait, maybe the alarm bells were already ringing. How did Chef turn out a Namkeen in such a short time?

The Coriander Nan (£3.50) was actually a Plain Nan with Coriander sprinkled on top. One assumed that Chef would have rolled in this wonderful Herb and cooked it thus in the Tandoor, or on the Tawa, not so. At least the Naan, served whole, was light, fluffy and ticked Hector’s other boxes. Anyway, that was the case for a while. Two visits back at Kebabish Grill, I had to send my Naan back having been served – cold – on the underside, leading to rapid cooling throughout.

Namkeen Gosht

In terms of appearance, this was a classic Afghan Karahi, suitably pale, i.e. nothing – red – here. A whole Bullet Chilli and whole cloves of Garlic were mixed in the Thick Masala. Tomato-based, one believes, this looked the job. Having been given a warmish dinner plate, I decided to decant from the long dish. Had the Namkeen been presented in a karahi, there it would have remained.

The Meat count was into double figures, large pieces too, so the price once again felt justified. One long bone sat alone on the plate. When Archie was here last month, he reported the waiter drawing his attention to the fact that this Curry is served on-the-bone. Where were my bones? Again, on my last visit the debris pile is evident. I challenge that this was actually Lamb on-the-bone.

Alarm! The first mouthful of Masala and Naan took me aback. This was not right, and not pleasant. The menu at Kebabish Grill quotes – black pepper and green chilli – as the key ingredients. In fact, there should be a crucial third – Salt

Namkeen translates as – Salt – and/or – Salty Butter. Where was the Seasoning?

The Spice Level was never going to be a challenge. A solitary, well cooked Chilli, none added towards the end of cooking. From where was the – kick – meant to come?

Peppery – is what truly defines the overall Flavour of a Namkeen Curry. To put it in very simple terms: today, Pepper was marked – absent.

How had Chef produced this Namkeen in such a short time? The Meat may give a clue. The Boneless Lamb was suitably Tender, well cooked but was giving nothing back in terms of Salt or Pepper. How long had this Meat and Masala been in each others company before serving? Not very long is an obvious answer, however, Hector has another theory.

My last home-cooked attempt at Namkeen was truly wonderful at the conclusion of cooking, claims the Hector. Four hours later, a twenty kilometre drive, a reheat, and it had turned to, well, I was not a Happy Hector. Is it possible that today I had been served fresh Lamb with yesterday’s Masala?

That I was not enjoying today’s Namkeen should now be established. Things then took a turn for the worst. Tomato aside, there was an overall Flavour I was not happy with. Soapy – came to mind, and excessively – buttery. No, this Curry did not not taste of actual – soap – but why, since that moment to the time of writing, am I left with – soapy – as the best adjective I can find to describe the moment?

As I ate on, there was the sense of the Seasoning growing, there was also a warmth of Spice. Something in there was right. However, the food was cold, unappetising, by definition. I had had enough, why prolong the displeasure?

A second waiter had appeared, Shafiq.

Finished? – he asked, on seeing the abandoned Namkeen and half eaten Naan.

Yes, I don’t want it.

The table was cleared, the necessary asked for.

As is the Curry-Heute practice, a Calling Card is only issued on Visit #1 as was the case at Kebabish Grill back in 2012. I could not leave without introducing myself, and give forewarning of what is written above.

The Bill

£20.95

The Aftermath

Having placed a Calling Card on top of the printout, Shafiq was quick to spot it.

I spelled out the detail, the ways in which this Curry was lacking. I even mentioned – soapy. Cold food – I had to highlight also. Shafiq was clearly apologetic. On showing the photo of my last Namkeen Gosht here in 2019, he spotted the difference in colour, and I believe was checking that that – pinkish – Curry had in fact been a Namkeen. (It may have been the lighting in 2019.)

That one I enjoyed.

You will put in your blog?

Yes. 

Menu extracts