September 2022, when Hector last had a day in Antwerpen, after a satisfying Lamb Desi Korma at Iman Hallal, an Afghan Restaurant came into view. With a full stomach, all the Hector could do was investigate, and what a revelation. Afghan Darbar (Sint-Gummarusstraat 35, 2060 Antwerpen Belgium) had photos on their menu board for Lamb Karahi, an authentic version, not the nonsense that is served up in Mainstream Curry Houses across the continent. A few photos were taken and the resolve was made: Hector shall return at the first opperchancity. There is no denial that today’s visit to Afghan Darbar was the focal point in all planning of this trip.
It was Dr. Stan, yes he who some think lives in Brussel, who pointed that it was easier to get to Antwerpen from Brussel than Brugge, where we were the last week. I am now reviewing if it is easier to get to Antwerpen from Amsterdam than Charleroi. Afghan Darbar is closed on Tuesdays, that left today, the final day of this trip for Antwerpen. It also happens to be Hector’s sixteenth birthday, all is explained – here.
Tram 12 took us the short hop from the magnificent Antwerpen Centraal to Afghan Darbar. Elisabeth – Metro Station is also nearby. Arriving at 13.25, my fellow diners were immediately impressed by the layout and décor. Pukka seats, lots of space, and photos of Afghanistan which instantly make one wish it was possible to visit. Pakistan and Afghanistan, what fun the Hector could have dining in these lands.
A young waiter brought the menu, lots of Kebap as one might expect, behold the business page: Kofta, Qorma (Desi Korma) and Karahi. I want them all and I want them now!
The kilo of Lams Karahi (€29.00) was duly ordered. The cheapest kilo I have found in some time, and only €4.00 more than last September. Note the Chicken Karahi costs half of the Lamb, presumably down to the relatively high bone content. I tried – Desi – and – Apna – on the waiter. Nope. A – Medium-plus – Spice Level was hopefully noted. He did confirm that Bread would be included, even better value! Three 200ml bottles of Belgian Fanta (€2.00) completed the Order. Our cheapest Fanta yet, apart from the two litre bottle (€2.60) at the apartment. Belgien, cheap, it can be done.
We settled down for the advertised 35 minute wait to prepare the Karahi. The photos on the wall certainly intrigued. The clientele were mixed, many in Asian garb, plus the obligatory screaming wean. Fortunately, peace ensued.
Trays of food passed us by, mountains of Rice, and lots of drinks. The Lassi machine at the doorway was a first. The arrangements of fresh fruit also impressed. I love Pomegranate, when someone else prepares it. There was a lot happening at Afghan Darbar, I feel this review may only scratch the surface.
At 13.50 a huge tray was brought to the table. Two portions each of Mint Sauce and Modest Salads accompanied the kilo and three Breads.
This was neither flatbread or Rogni Naan as I recognise it. The perforations and linear scores had prevented it rising towards blisters, yet the Bread had achieved – girth. Not doughy at all, a new experience, and proved very useful at mopping up the Masala remnants clinging to the side of the karahi.
I had to ask for plates, three hands dipping into the karahi may be the Afghan way, we are British.
Lams Karahi
I have seen larger – kilos. I have also seen half kilos which were decidedly smaller than half of what lay before us. There was enough for three, two would have meant a feast. As the Masala had set somewhat, I used a spoon to revitalise it, making for a better photo. Ladies, first, Mags managed to take quite a few of the Lamb on-the-bone pieces, by design, I know not. With the three portions decanted, then a soupçon of Salad and Sauce arranged on the side of the plate, it was time to get stuck in.
Dr. Stan was ahead of me in commenting – Seasoning! – the first remark.
This augured well. Recent posts have had a recurring theme, today was about to prove the point.
Charsi Karahi – is what I have become used to when dining in Afghani Houses. There was a rich, Tomatoey redness to this Masala which suggested this indeed could be – Charsi. However, in the UK houses, the Charsi encountered to date has been – watery.
Today’s Masala was the very definition of Hector’s Masala idyll. The – thickness – was amazing, no sense of packet/paste Spice used here. Meat fibres were visible in the Masala Mash. With the karahi sat between us, Dr. Stan and I were regular dippers in the Oily residue. Every morsel of Masala was scraped off.
Dr. Stan had called it correctly. The Seasoning hit hard long before the Spice began to register. If it was possible to buy powdered Sun Dried Tomato, and add it by the tablespoon, then that may describe the intensity of Flavour in the Masala. For once, no Cloves/Cinnamon. This was different, this was wonderful.
The Meat was amazingly Tender, minimal chewing required. My quota of Bones was set aside. No Sucky Bones. I halved most of my allocation using my fork, prolong the pleasure. Beautiful Lamb. Overall, there was a killer intensity of Flavour, and surely made possible by the level of Seasoning. QED.
Apart from the occasional – Mmmms – across the table, we ate in silence, until:
My apologies for bringing you here today.
This released spontaneous outburst from my fellow diners. Positive does not begin to describe these. We knew that this Lams Karahi was something special.
Dr. Stan:
First impression was how salty it was, well seasoned. Couldn’t put my finger on the spices. Meat just fell off the bone. Good food.
Mags:
Marvelous, I’m still trying to work out how they can get so much flavour into an Afghan Karahi. First time I’ve had Afghan Bread, amazing. Very authentic, for sure.
This was a memorable Karahi: the best Curry ever had in Belgien, and the best Afghan Karahi experienced to date.
The Bill
€35.00 (£30.04) A Tenner a head.
The Aftermath
Having gone up to pay, I was directed to the main man behind the counter. The Calling Card was presented, I did my spiel. Mein Host was decidedly nonplussed. Afghan Darbar no doubt has its own community of customers. Hopefully those who read these pages will add to this.
Menu extracts
