Bateera (Quails) (£7.00) at Kabana (Cheetham Hill) (133 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester, England M8 8LY) was not the intended Curry-Heute in Manchester. It had been mooted, but having consulted a well known and reliable Curry Blog, there was a reminder that Lahori Butt Karahi (142 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester M8 8PZ) England), across the road from Kabana C-H, had to be checked out. Four days ago, Marg and Hector were intent on trying Lahori Butt Karahi – Bradford, but to no avail.
The walk up Cheetham Hill road from The Northern Quarter seemed to take less time than on previous years. Or, maybe it is dependent on how many of us are making the walk. None of the rest of The Company were up for sharing – the kilo – and so took the option of Kabana (original).
Just before the cluster of Curry Houses on Cheetham Hill Road, another new venue came into view – Cafe 99 Khan Baba (97 Cheetham Hill Rd., Manchester M8 8PY England). Rice & Three (£6.00), attractive, but it needs to be established exactly what is on offer. With kilos of Lamb Karahi also advertised, another one for the future. Walking past Lahori Badsha did feel strange, but needs must. Two doors up lies Lahori Butt Karahi, the shutters were down, mostly. Google Maps have them opening at 12.00, it was just a few minutes before 13.00, here we go again.
The more agile Marg went under the shutters, not quite limbo dancing, and called out. A lady emerged from the gloom. Having challenged the fact that they should be open, it was explained that there was a water problem and works were ongoing. Lahori Butt Karahi would open later.
What time are you opening tomorrow?
Noon – was the given answer.
Cafe 99 Khan Baba now seemed like the logical place to investigate. Crossing at the lights, yet another venue was revealed. A second branch of Lahori Nazara, currently of Stockport Road, east of the Wilmslow Road – Curry Mile. This may further enhance the theory long proposed in these pages, that the Curry scene in Manchester is moving north. The Northern Quarter and Cheetham Hill is becoming a more authentic – Curry Mile. With many shops in the original Curry Mile now just Kebap-grill houses, Cheetham Hill is where one finds Lahori-Desi Curry. A taxi driver on this trip concurred, he acknowledged the changing ethnicity in the south of Manchester and the change in food on offer.
Marg likes giraffes, there had to be a photo. On entering the empty Cafe 99 Khan Baba, we chose the table at the door. Despite it getting hotter by the minute outside, we needed air. A chap sat behind the counter, it became clear he was never going to approach us. I went up to place the Order.
A kilo of Lamb Karahi (£28.00) on-the-bone please.
A good price for a kilo presently.
No Lamb, but he could offer Chicken. About turn, goodbye.
Was this because there was no Lamb on the premises, or was the chap not able to cook the required Karahi? Two disappointments in the space of five minutes. Hopefully there would be Quail left at Kabana C-H.
Paul, Mein Host, greeted as we entered. It is almost a year to the day since we last visited.
Is there Quail left?
Success.
Wary of how splashy the accompanying Masala can be, never mind the footeriness of eating this micro-game bird, I decided to try Boiled Rice (£2.50) as the accompaniment. Having explained to Marg that Keema Balti (£7.00) was about being served in a – bucket – and did not refer to a particular ingredient, she was happy with this, plus her customary Chapatti (£1.00).
Marg had taken a table and had organised the glasses, cutlery and the much needed napkins. Paul summoned me to the counter after a few minutes. This is fast food, everything in kettles, just waiting to be served.
The Chapatti was huge, Marg would manage nearly all. Wholemeal Chapatti Flour had been used in its creation. There was sufficient browning to create the sense of being well-fired.
The Boiled Rice, garnished with Bay Leaves was massive. Two could easily have shared this. Defeat was already staring the Hector in the face.
Bateera (Quails)
A portion is normally two, the Hector had three! This would increase the chances of staining the polo-shirt by fifty per cent. I should invest in a bib and carry it with me. Steve later suggested I carry a spare t-shirt for dining in. There are no photos of the Hector, napkins aplenty, held in place by will power.
With the sprinkling of Coriander atop the Quail, I completely forgot to add – the foliage – which has an even greater range of components than at the mother shop.
The Masala oozed Desi quality. Orange, Oily, possibly blended, I put enough on top of the wee-birds to created the appearance of Curry & Rice. With some of the Masala soaked into the Rice, one part of the strategy was working. However, there was nowhere near enough Masala to accommodate the Rice. I could fetch more, as and when. The absurdity of having Quail with Rice soon became apparent. Fingers are required, there is no other practical way.
The Masala had its own distinctive Flavour, quite different from Kabana original. An aromatic Flavour was identified, distant from the Manchester Clove overload. Whole Peppercorns, I wondered at first if any were Juniper Berries. Probably not.
The Spice Level was sensible, the Seasoning felt appropriate for the accompanying Meat. The exterior millimetres of the Quail had absorbed the Masala-Spice. The interior was untouched. Still, the gamey nature of this bird offers so much more than Chicken.
Marg offered the space on her Chapatti plate for the accumulating pile of bones. On my last visit here, I speculated as to what three Quail might be like to eat compared the the modest size of two. Today I found out.
Quail, a once a year event. But, if Sheerin Palace (Glasgow) ever have it again, the Hector will be straight across the river.
Keema Balti
Served on a plate, not a – bucket – one has to wonder why this Curry was called as such.
Suitably Dry with a mere trace of Oil, the light colour of the Mince suggested this was – Chicken. Finely ground meat of all types should take on some Flavour. I watched Marg set aside what I took to sliced Green Chillies, both red and green, however, these turned out to be the dreaded Capsicum.
Chicken and Capsicum, the Hector will not be ordering this any time soon, or at all. Marg:
A large bowl of Chicken Keema with a colourful array of peppers. Green, red and yellow, small pieces were all mixed in this dish. Finely minced meat with small cinnamon pieces and part of a bay leaf. There was a spicy taste to this meal and a large Chapatti allowed me to pick up the meat. Enjoyable.
The Bill
£17.50
The Aftermath
Paul took the payment. Acknowledging the generous portion of Bateera, I related that last time here, I had speculated as to how I might welcome, or even cope with, a third Quail.
Now I know, I’m exhausted!
A third must have sneaked on to the plate – was Paul’s explanation.
Lahori Butt Karahi was open as we walked back down Cheetham Hill Road. Their loss. Next time, but I think I have written this before.