Whilst this is certainly the hundredth review of The Village “Curry House” (119 West St., Tradeston, Glasgow G5 8BA) in Curry-Heute, in terms of actual visits, it could well be double that. No – #100 certificate – therefore to mark the day as at Yadgar or Karahi Palace, I’ll never establish when visit #100 actually was.
When Curry-Heute was launched in April, 2010, it sort of just happened, Hector was already – resident – here. It was The Village which introduced Hector to – Desi Curry – the memory of exactly when is also lost. Fair to say that in the noughties, the Hector could be oft found sitting at the bench portal between cafe and kitchen. Oft, three times a week, whenever Marg did not require to be fed.
Since then, the temporary relocation across the street, leading to the unveiling of the wonderful new premises, extending the original into a former industrial unit. Review #1, reminds me of suggesting to Mr. Baig, Mein Host, that he should consider building flats upstairs so that I could become even more – resident. Arriving today at 14.15, the scaffolding had gone, the new flats must be near enough complete!
Further, internal, works have been undertaken. The large room has been split in two thus creating a discrete – function room. Hopefully, this, and the main dining area, can be heated separately, thus reducing the gas bill. Today at The Village, it was decidedly warm, the first Curry enjoyed in comfort in recent outings.
A hundred reviews, few have been sycophantic. Review #1 reveals that even before Curry-Heute, I had already been in touch with Mr. Baig regarding the inconsistency in the presentation of my beloved Lamb Desi Korma – a Yogurt base with Black Pepper, Green Chillies and copious amounts of special Herbs and Spices – as the menu described in 2010. Ironically, this was solved in subsequent years by removing it from the menu. Fear not, it’s back!
The Village taught me to experiment. There are many other Desi Dishes. Tawa – a concoction of Black Pepper, Ginger, Garlic and the freshest of Herbs and Spices (2010) – became a popular choice. Then there was the Lamb Laal Lahori aka Laal Maas which disappeared, never to return. Laal Maas has subsequently been had around the World, no Chef has ever come close to the intensity of Tomato that was once served at The Village.
Mr Baig was busy in his office as I walked along the newly created corridor at the entrance. There was an acknowledgement. The young masked waitress led me to a table mid room. She picked up the Lunchtime Menu as she passed the pile, I asked for the Main. I immediately realised this was a new menu, fair do’s, prices last increased back in 2023.
Lamb Desi Qorma (£14.95) with Mushroom Rice (£3.95) was duly ordered. I ensured – on-the-bone, the waitress made a point of saying – Desi – then offered – medium or spicy? The challenge was accepted.
A jug of tap water completed the Order. The strange aftertaste I found in Southside venues last summer has gone.
What was that about?
The first Monday of the New Year, the day peeps should be back at work. There was always a handful of diners present today, but I still await the throng when the Barclays staff discover The Village. Too late for Handi By Darbar.
The closure of the nearby Handi By Darbar, formerly Karahi Palace, means that The Village is the only source of Desi Korma in Glasgow known to Hector. Do I really have to go to Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) to find another version?
As outlined at the start of this review, it’s all abut Spice and Herbs. Curry does not have to be – challenging – today, I just happened to be in that mood. The distinctive Flavours of this Curry, traditionally prepared for festivities/events, is what makes it a standout.
I can smell it from here – I said to the waiter as he placed my food mid table. The blast of Citrus was that pronounced.
I arranged the modest portion of Mushroom Rice on the plate. From where are Chefs currently sourcing these superb, fresh – black – Mushrooms? Enough for one, a sensible portion, I should have sampled it before decanting the Curry. The Rice could have been hotter, consequently this would bring down the overall temperature of the meal.
Lamb Desi Qorma
Consistency – used to be the issue. Since the Desi Korma reappeared on the menu, this has evidently been sorted. However, the garnish of Flaked Almonds never appears.
In a departure from the norm, let’s start at the end of the eating, the debris.
The bone count was such that there was plenty of Meat to be enjoyed. The Sucky Bone is always a sign that quality Meat has been served, the marrow also adds to the overall Flavour. Four whole Cloves, perhaps the single Spice which gives Punjabi Cuisine it’s distinctive Flavour. Both Green and Black Cardamoms were revealed, then surprisingly, the Lemon Rind. Ah, the Citrus. The skin of the Red Chilli may be down to the Hector accepting – Spicy.
In the pages of Curry-Heute, it is the presence of – Whole Spices – which marks the serving of – Desi Curry. Too many venues stick this moniker on their menu, the Hector is left to ask – why is this Desi?
The Meat count was into double figures, the bone content is revealed above. The blended Masala had an Oily sheen, there was no residue. As ever, I kept some back for the end game, but too much Rice was not going to be an issue, every grain would be eaten.
The aroma had already confirmed the presence of the distinctive – Citrus – Flavour which a certain Curryspondent assures me is from the Yoghurt. Today, a tanginess registered on the palate, the Lemon Rind took me towards Achari.
Achari, another Village favourite, why am I denying myself these pleasures? I may have to move back in here.
The first piece of Lamb was decidedly – stringy – which took me aback momentarily. All was well thereafter. Note, the quality of Lamb encountered in recent weeks has been exceptional. Today’s was true – Desi – more than just Meatiness, there was Spice and Herb being given off. (The other – Desi – parameter.)
The menacing Masala, Chef had given me – the works. The Spice Level was prominent at the start and had kept building. By the halfway point I made another note: this is when people say – my mouth is on fire.
A Spicy palate never hurt anyone.
Finally, the Seasoning, never intrusive, but sufficient that the Herbs and Spices were able to reveal their Flavours. Sensational, but not in the usual application of this word. This was a Curry befitting Review #100.
As I ate, so Kasif, a son of Mr. Baig walked through to the office. I have known Kasif and his sister Irram, since they were teenagers. Tempus fugit. Kasif didn’t spot me, else left me to my eating. It was his elder brother, and Chef, whose name I have never established, who approached me as I finished.
The Bill
£18.90 Or double what I paid in the bygone days…
The Aftermath
The renovations, fuel charges, New Year, were all discussed. My burning question: if the space is now divided, where will The Village Ramadan Buffet be set up?
The function room – was the answer.
We cannot all fit in there. It’s a while until Ramadan, time to think on this.
I should have asked about the flats upstairs.