Our last Curry with Mark and Jude was in Dunedin, New Zealand, on Day 33 of RTW-80. Today’s rendezvous took Marg and Hector down to Helensburgh and Annaya’s (80-82 West Princes St., Helensburgh, G84 8XD). Annaya’s, the best show in town, and as the evening would reveal, it’s not just in the eating.
Following an aperitif, we arrived for our 19.00 booking. A Tuesday evening, Annaya’s was quiet, however, I am more used to being here on a Saturday when the place is wedged.
The complex menu, first seen in January, apart from Sundries, was basically ignored. The Specials Board is where – the good stuff – is displayed. Even then, the Desi Lamb, courtesy of Alan of this parish, and influenced by Hector over the years, has become: Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning (£14.95).
There was no sign of Rocky, Mein Host, initially. When the waitress mooted Poppadoms, I gave my usual response – if Rocky wants us to have them, they will arrive.
They did, and I was not amused to find £8.50 on The Bill to cover these and the Chutney/Dips. My tactic didn’t work, I would have been outvoted anyway.
A glass of red wine and the first of two large bottles of Sparkling Water were ordered. Drinks – £18.40. Hector the Miserable? OK, it was a special night and we were out – to dine.
Back to the food. Rocky appeared, recognised me, called me by the wrong name and proceeded to talk us through the Specials on his own portable board. There were only one or two tweaks from that last seen in January.
Rocky informed me that my elaborate Methi Gosht would feature Mustard Leaves as well as Methi. Rocky’s spiel was so detailed I interrupted to suggest we should have made an audio recording. It was not just revealing the ingredients for each Dish but also the timing of when they are added. Royal Nihari (£15.95) was one Curry he particularly highlighted this evening. I had to challenge when he relayed the Lamb was removed from the Bone before cooking. Ah, the Bones are then cooked in. Clever, and not off-putting as some may find being served a Lamb Shank. Mark was sold on the Royal Nihari. As with last year in Dunedin, Marg chose a Railway Curry: Railway Boti (£14.95), whilst Jude stuck to Prawns: King Prawn Tikka Masala (£15.95).
Each couple would both share Rice and Bread: Pilau (£3.50) for the visitors with a Garlic & Coriander Nan (£4.95), Marg and Hector – Mushroom Rice (£4.95) and a Coriander Nan (£4.95?). Once again, I had managed to persuade Marg to have the more elaborate Bread. Roti here is made from Wholemeal Flour, and as established at Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) on Saturday, the Hector is not for having this.
Starters? Oh, why not? Marg and Hector would share Fish Pakora (£7.95) which was a standout last time, Mark and Jude – Vegetable Pakora (£5.95).
It was great being here on a quieter evening, the full treatment was very much the name of the game. Annaya’s keeps winning awards. Who wins Awards?
Having left for but a moment, I returned to find the Starters on the table accompanied by a further four Dips.
Fish Pakora
Seven decent sized pieces of what I took to be Haddock. That they were freshly cooked was not in doubt, the pieces were so pliable. The Dips were hardly required such was the Flavour from the Fish, but when in Rome. The batter was seriously Spicy, surprisingly so.
Vegetable Pakora
Helensburgh’s long lost Akash set the standard for freshly cooked Pakora, none of this double frying nonsense which has become the norm. Tonight’s Pakora was lightly fried and featured the jaggy bits which are a feature of home-cooked Pakora. Six pieces, once upon a time it was nine, so not a lot when sharing, and Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) would be passed on the way home, their Takeaway portion oft reaches more than two dozen.
Mark said – the Pakora was great. Jude also praised the Condiments. We had amassed seven.
Five to ten? – asked Rocky, referring not ot the time but the proposed gap between courses.
Fifteen – I proposed. Let the Starts digest.
Jude remarked that we were never asked how Spicy we wanted our Curry. I assured her Spice Level would not be an issue, they know what they are doing.
Super hot plates heralded the arrival of the Mains. And with Rice ordered, we would all be eating from a dinner plate this evening.
Both Rice portions proved to be enough to share, especially with Bread accompanying. Having celebrated the Mushroom Rice this past year at Chimes of India (Glasgow) then more recently at Curry Pot (Glasgow), I know how wonderful a Mushroom Rice can be. Tonight’s Mushrooms appeared to be compariively few and shrivelled, a not so Interesting Vegetable. The Rice itself had no particular Flavour. impact.
What happened to the Bread? I have read back through previous visits to Annaya’s. The Bread, in various forms, has always impressed. Not tonight.
The waiter presented the Naan, Garlic & Coriander to Mark and Jude, Plain Naan to Marg and I. I assumed he was simply differentiating.
Risen, blistered, puffy – has been a feature of the Tandoori Naan served here previously. Tonight, peely wally, limp, soggy, and no sign of the dough having been near a Tandoor.
As I completed my photographic ritual, so Marg got to the Bread first.
Garlic!
Was the Bread issued the wrong way round? Mark confirmed they too had Garlic. Further study revealed just a threat of Coriander in theirs.
Our Naan had no sign of Coriander and was clearly giving off overwhelming Garlic, which we had deliberately tried to avoid.
Served in four pieces, this Naan was a classic example of everything the Hector tries to avoid.
There was little point in sending it back. The mistake had been made, why let our food cool whilst we waited for another limp piece of Bread? Between us, we ate less than half.
Desi Lamb Methi – on-the-bone, extra Seasoning
What lay beneath the toppings of Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies, was exactly what the Hector helped develop in Helensburgh after Methi was first identified in Bradford three decades ago. A Dry, Thick Masala with Herbs, not the Herb Mash which some venues resort to … and in mainland Europe, they add Cream!
The aforementioned Akash is where this Master Curry was honed to Hector’s palate, then there was the ill fated fire. To have this Methi Gosht served on-the-bone, even better, a Desi Curry.
The Seasoning was a la Hector. The Herb-rich Masala was approaching the great Bradford Curry Taste. The Bullet Chillies, taken as and when, gave the extra – kick.
Super-soft Lamb, saturated with Herb, Meat that was giving back more than just its own Flavour. Again, this is what the Hector seeks, and although no Whole Spices were encountered, enough to justify being called a Desi Curry.
The Bread dismissed, the Rice still proved to be plentiful. It was a case of maximise pleasure, finish the Curry, and so leave a few grains. Bhuna Dry, this was quite a Curry.
Railway Boti
Wonderful! – was an early exclamation by Marg, and why not? The Masala was – Classic Curry, and the Lamb was served – on the-bone.
Topped with Cashew Nuts, the Oily sheen from the Masala was so inviting. For once, not even a Soupçon was coming Hector’s way. Coriander too, hard to tell for sure if the Masala had been blended. This version of Railway Boti bore no resemblance to the Creamy-Soupy affair served here back in 2019. As with – Handi – a Curry with this moniker can be anything Chef wishes to dish out. I would be tempted to have this version next time, but then I know what follows below already.
At this rate, Marg will be starting her own Blog:
A Poppadom with Mango Chutney was a familiar start to a meal in the past. When the Fish Pakora arrived it was piping hot and freshly made. I enjoyed the mixed sizes of Pakora and used a few of the dips on offer.
We asked for a short break and this gave us all some time to digest our starters and be ready for the main meal. My Railway Boti dish looked full of meat with cashew nuts sprinkled on top. I loved the taste of the sauce and the lamb was very tender with some pieces on the bone. This rich, sweetened sauce was absorbed in the mushroom rice and was a real treat to eat. The only hiccup was the nan bread, which was covered in garlic, instead of coriander which had been asked. I did use the bread to mop up the meal, where the garlic was too strong. Overall, the dish was fabulous and a real delight.
Royal Nihari
A Boneless Nihari, but as we now know, cooked with Bone in the pot. Traditionally served in a Shorva, this Masala was heading in that direction, but was far from watery. A Dark, mysterious Masala, and once again topped with Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies.
Mark raved about his Curry throughout the eating and would later tell Rocky that he would happily have just had the Masala on its own, so impressive was the Flavour.
With the introduction and explanation, it became an event. Not just a meal.
I recommend that curry, sauce was like a Sunday roast gravy with spices, not too (Spicy) hot.
King Prawn Tikka Masala
This was the only Curry this evening from the menu, not the Specials. A Soupy Masala, with a swirl of Cream, never going to be a challenge.
Jude did ask Mark to verify that she had Prawns, she didn’t recognise the now spiralled Seafood. Her concluding remark says it all:
Thought the service was phenomenal. The attention to detail, made you feel welcome curry was good, not the best I’ve ever had. Flavours not complex, down to me picking a basic curry.
Has the lady been away from her native Bradford for too long?
Rocky was back. More Curry recipes being described. I had to ask The Big Question!
Have you ever served a Desi Korma?
Rocky then proceeded to give a detailed description of the ingredients and method to create this truly – Shahi Curry – and how it was transformed from what the Hector considers to be the tastiest of Curry, traditionally served at functions, to the creamy/coconut abomination (my term) that is universally available.
Maybe, one day, this will be one of the Specials.
Next time at Annaya’s, the Maestro will have to be recorded. So much information lost to the ether.
The Bill
£119.30
The Aftermath
We didn’t stay for Coffee, though Marg must have been overheard mentioning Chai.
Rocky presented a portion of Chai-mix, reminiscent of Turkish Apple Tea.
Marg may well purloin this.