The Rickmeister, aka The Man from Bradford, set the challenge of choosing the venue for our first ever Curry together in Edinburgh. The choice was simple: Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) is the closest thing Edinburgh has to offer which resembles both the Curry Cafes of Glasgow’s Southside and of course the Curry Houses of Bradford which we have visited most. Dr. Stan makes an appearance today also, he knows the score.
Arriving at Kebab Mahal at 14.30, all but one of the tables were occupied, soon all would be. It is the day before the start of the Edinburgh Festival, an entertainment group from the USA took up two tables near the door. Mr. Khan, Mein Host, acknowledged me as I entered, it is some three years since I last set foot in these premises. Monty’s has gone, the only pub in Edinburgh, so why come through? Part of today’s mission was to establish otherwise.
By chance rather than design, today we would add three Dishes to the coverage of Kebab Mahal, i.e. not seen previously in Curry-Heute. Aloo Ghoust (£11.95) for Hector, Sag Ghoust (£11.95) for Dr. Stan, and Kofta Curry (£13.95) for Ricky.
Ricky was impressed that Kofta was on the menu, but was convinced they wouldn’t have it. His prediction became true, in part.
Dr. Stan mooted Rice, I suggest we share Vegetable Pilau (£3.95), one Chapati (£1.55) as back up. For Ricky, Tandoori Naan (£2.95).
Mr. Khan himself took the Order after Ricky began to believe we would have to go up to the counter. I did advise that if drinks were required, it is a matter of help yourself from the fridge. Dr. Stan took a Rubicon, no other drinks were consumed, though a jug of tap water was available, if one insisted. At Kebab Mahal they do not go out of their way to put liquid on the table. The price of the can was unknown at the point of ordering and remained so.
A rather loud regular was keen on engaging all around. That he had been coming here since the early 1990s was relayed to all, but mainly directed towards Mein Host whom he addressed as Mr. Khan throughout. The actors were entertained. The weans in the far corner daren’t utter a word. A strange atmosphere, but Ricky loved my choice of venue.
The Vegetable Pilau, as expected, was enough to share. Featuring Peas, Carrots, Green Beans and Sweetcorn, the required Diversity was present.
The Chapatti was made from Wholemeal Flour, consequently I had but a scrap. Dr. Stan soon discovered we didn’t really need Bread such was the volume of the Curry.
The Tandoori Naan was an instant winner, served whole, huge, teardrop shaped, risen, puffy, every box ticked. Note to self: order the Naan!
Aloo Ghoust
Technically, the wrong Masala, a traditional Aloo Gosht should be served in a Shorva, however the House Blended Masala is what I was expecting. That is how it is. I arranged ten large pieces of Lamb over the Rice, then half as many bits of Potato.
As ever, I retained some for the end game, to revitalise whatever Rice could be left over. This was a lot of Curry for the £.
A lack of Seasoning has been the recurring criticism on my previous nine visits to Kebab Mahal, today, all was well. Chef may well have changed in the intervening years, this Curry was much more a la Hector. The Spice Level was as it should be, sufficient, not demanding. The basics gotten right, all was set for an enjoyable meal.
Beautifully Tender Meat, only but a trace of sinew encountered, this was quality. Some pieces of Lamb suggested absorption of the Spice, a parameter verified when I tackled the Potato. Clearly, this had just been added and so the magic absorption that an Aloo Gosht on display would have acquired, was not present. Still, the light and fluffy Potato was adding further Diversity, and why I chose this over the Lamb Mushroom Curry (£11.95).
From somewhere, a slight Sweetness was manifesting itself, I’ll always nominate the Carrots when this is so. Otherwise, this was a worthy Curry, streets ahead of what is served in the Mainstream venues which prevail.
Kofta Curry
Why this was £2.00 dearer, than the other Dishes on the menu, is a mystery compounded when Ricky saw a lesser price quoted in the window.
The skewer holes, and linear nature of the solids, confirmed that this was not a Kofta Curry per se. Seekh Kebab had been used, not Meatballs. It happens. The Masala was identical to that seen in the Aloo Gosht. Again, a Punjabi Shorva would have been more authentic.
It’s alright, not what I was expecting – was an early comment by Rick.
So, how had this been cooked? Seekh Kebab would normally be grilled, we saw little evidence for that. Meatballs could be baked then added to a Masala, or partly cooked therein. One of these, presumably. That Ricky was enjoying his Curry was made clear.
The Rickmeister managed an impressive portion of his Naan, he had a lot of Curry to get through. He liked the food, he liked the venue, a proper place.
Sag Ghoust
This was Dr. Stan’s second Palak Gosht in eighteen hours. The Hector did well not become involved last night. A victory in Europe by The Famous had to be celebrated otherwise.
The volume of Curry impressed, the Thick, Dry, Herb-rich Masala Mash, exactly what the doctor ordered. Sorry. However, not the way the Hector desires his Spinach Curry, not enough actual Masala present here. In Deutschland, Dr. Stan always embraces Gemüse, the Spinach Puree oft served as an accompaniment. Too green.
The plate was cleared, although there was a tacit acceptance that we had both abandoned the Chapatti. Dr. Stan:
A basic curry with medium spice. A good blend of spices. Gemüse spinach, which I like because its quite thick. Tender meat, plenty of it. Just about finished it.
On clearing the table, Mr. Khan commented on the half Chapatti remaining. That we had eaten everything else did not seem to matter. As has been written here previously:
Mr. Khan likes clean plates.
The Bill
Paying separately, I lost track. Together we parted with £46.35.
The Aftermath
It was very much a case of – see you again – as we departed. The Rickmeister now has a Curry venue in the east for when he has to attend a certain football ground in Leith. And that, unsurprisingly, was where we headed next. However, by kick-off, Dr. Stan and Hector were in Musselburgh.
