A well known and sometimes reliable map source has Mustafa’s Dera (161 Dundee Street, Edinburgh EH11 1BY) listed as a – Scottish restaurant, perhaps a bit of clarification is required. Opened in the last twelve months, to the best of my knowledge, Mustafa’s Dera displays itself as – Scottish Pakistani – this is what put it on Hector’s radar. Authentic Punjabi/Pakistani restaurants are few in Edinburgh compared to Glasgow, the former Curry Capital. However, the number appears to be growing.
With plenty of time before our 16.00 rendezvous in the Old Town, Marg and Hector arrived at Mustafa’s Dera at 13.50. Having walked from Haymarket, much of the route was familiar, the longer established and recommended Lazeez Tandoori is nearby. Lazeez Tandoori does not open early, Mustafa’s Dera opens daily at 11.00, more on this later.
Our waiter today, Ali, was front of house. He suggested Poppadoms (£1.00) as we took our seats. As ever, the Hector was not playing this game. As we studied the menu, Ali asked if we needed help with Pakistani food.
He would eat it every day – Marg replied.
To be fair, Lyllpuri is a new one for me, maybe one day this will be reviewed. 
The availability of Fish Karahi (£14.99) had already drawn my attention. Fish Karahi is a rarity in these lands, potentially the ultimate Curry, but there have been a number of disappointments over the years. The description on the menu mentioned the dreaded Ballast, fortunately, someone sensible had added – green pepper can be left out.
Why was it even considered?
Marg chose Lamb Nentara (£11.50), neither of us paid too much attention to the description, a surprise would unfold.
Our choice of main courses are served with Rice (£3.70) which alters one’s perspective of the pricing. Only the Fish Karahi? This precluded Hector’s favoured Mushroom Pilau (£4.50), unless they do a deal. Furthermore, who is going to order Bread when Rice is inclusive? I suppose if I ever bring Lord Clive of Crawley to Mustafa’s he will have his Mince Naan (£4.50), regardless.
If I was to order Rice with Karahi in my favourite Glasgow Curry Cafes, eyebrows would be raised. I tried it once, and they were. When heads were shaken, Naan please.
The Order relayed, Ali enquired about our desired Spice Level. Medium – for Marg, Above medium – for Hector. For the second time this week I ask:
Why is this not standard practice?
A bottle of chilled tap water was provided on request.
Chef got to work, I could hear busy scraping sounds emanating from the kitchen, well when Marg wasn’t throwing dice. Ludo, how noisy can it be? Chess boards were on other tables, for the children. Napier University isn’t too far away.
The décor was very much in the style of what I shall refer to as – Horn Please! Busy, bright, fun. The serving counter, kitchen and facilities were somewhat detached from the main seating area. We sat alone.
Ali brought the food, all pots were covered, sustaining the suspense for a few moments longer. As we began arranging our food on the metal plates, so Mein Host entered. He greeted us and established that we were being looked after.
The Rice immediately impressed. Suitably spiced, tasty, had I been able to include my preferred Mushrooms to this, it could well have rivalled Curry Pot and Chimes of India (both Glasgow).
The volume was perfect for me, Marg, who prefers a Roti/Chapatti (£1.50) managed just over half.
Fish Karahi
White Fish, later confirmed by Ali as – Tilapia, sat in a Thick Masala. My close up of the Masala would suggest Tomato Seeds, but these were so large they were Daal-like.
Not the largest of portions, Tapas-plus could be apt. There was certainly enough to consider this as a main course.
Hot food, an immediate positive, the Seasoning was sound, I could also taste the Fish! Too often I report otherwise. The Spice Level was as asked for, an excellent start.
With no Whole Spices, I could not pick out any particular source of Flavour. On top of the Fishiness, there was a Sweetness emanating from the Masala. In time, this would evoke many a Curry had in Mainland Europe, however, this was way better.
A Fish Karahi, a treat, whilst short of attaining the – wow! – this was a damn fine Curry.
Lamb Nentara
India meets Asia – is one description I found for this Curry. The Geographer wonders where that writer thought India might be. The Masala appeared to be identical to that served with the Fish Karahi. Usually a Soupçon crosses the table, not today. Once Marg had finished decanting, I licked her spoon. Oh, interesting, and markedly different from the Fish Karahi. Appearances can be deceptive. This Curry I shall have to try on a future visit.
Light pieces of something solid, Marg took these to be Potato: to her great surprise, Prawns! The menu would have given this away, had we looked. The Nentara is appreciably cheaper than the Fish Karahi, and has Prawns. I never understand UK pricing for Fish. Marg was quite loquacious:
A new place to visit and not far from Haymarket, walkable. I ordered Lamb Nentara as a new experience. Slow cooked chunks of lamb marinated in a special sauce with fresh herbs and spices. Now Marg has read the menu!
The dish had plenty of meat with an abundance of prawns as well in the recipe. The prawns were an unusual taste with the lamb but I soon became accustomed to them. There was a lovely hint of coriander throughout the meal. I could only eat three quarters of the rice as the whole meal was filling.
I took some of the aniseed sweets to finish the whole experience. I am sure we will return.
The Bill
£26.49
The Aftermath
Can you give us a review? – asked Ali.
I shall do much more.
And so the Calling Card was issued. This was in turn passed to Mein Host, whose name I did not catch – he is the father of young Mustafa after whom these premises are named.
The – Sweetness – was then, in part, explained by Chef #2 being on duty, Chef #1 was due shortly.
I was keen to establish that everything on the menu would be available at the 11.00 opening time. This was confirmed, and Nashta is even served late at night if required.
On afternoon visits to Staggs (Musselburgh), food afore is required, and noon opening times do not comply with Hector’s schedule. Mustafa’s Dera could well supply the solution. There is a menu here to be explored.
We took Bus 30, Musselburgh bound, to the Old Town. 30, the bus one should never take to Musselburgh. Try it, if you don’t believe me.
2025 Menu
