When in Athena, be brave, take a walk northwards, from the throng at Iroon Square, to the area where Desi Curry is to be found. For the last fourteen years, Hector has been exploring this area of Athena between Psiri and Omonia, then beyond. This part of the city, to the north of the Acropolis is where the veritable Curry is to be found, not in the Downtown, Mainstream, pukka palaces. Favourite venues have become established as the list of Athena Curry Houses shows. Today it was time to try another venue not previously covered in Curry-Heute.
Shinwari Grill (Voulgari 3, Athina 104 37, Hellas), aka Efcharis Restaurant on another medium, has everything the Hector seeks. Take note, there is another Efcharis near Monastiraki, a Greek Restaurant, as if this was a rarity in Hellas. An aside: I never did see an Indian Restaurant in India.
Marg and Hector arrived at Shinwari Grill just on 14.00. With the body clock two hours behind, this was ambitious, but if we are going to enjoy Greek Cuisine also, it has to be. We walked through the outside seating area to investigate what was on offer. With an extensive array of Dishes on display, the Hector was right at home, especially when the Karahi Gosht, on-the-bone of course, sat proudly in the centre. We took seats outside, a chap brought the menu and two chilled bottles of water.
Curry Bowls with Rice – is how the menu conveyed the fayre. Karahi Gosht was not listed. Full Plates – also featured prominently, 750ml, I could manage that, with help from Marg.
A waitress brought the plates etc. and took the Order. By now Marg had declared herself to be in Salad mode. Pakora Salad (€7.00).
Karahi Gosht – was not understood despite being the universal language of Curry. I led the young lady back inside and pointed to the tray. The chaps intervened, all was well, that I desired just the one Plain Naan (€2.00) caused the double take.
Marg studied the Marilyn Monroe clippings which formed the table top décor whilst I tried to sort out Shinawari v Efcharis. The latter means – the one who has a lot of fun – in Greek, whilst Shinwari refers to the nomadic tribe occupying the land on the Afghan-Pakistan border, the Khyber Pass.
The waitress brought a substantial Salad and a bowl of Raita to the table. The Raita had quite a wee kick. Having ordered the Pakora Salad, how much could we eat? The main event was presented moments later, Rice too.
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The Naan was served halved. Lightly fired, but well risen and puffy, the Bread served in this area is always outstanding. Sadly, with Rice now part of the equation, I would not do the Naan justice
Rice with Karahi, for the second time in a week. I hope the purists shall forgive me. I took as much as I thought I would manage. The presence of Cumin Seeds should add a bit more Flavour to the Curry.
Karahi Gosht
Six large pieces of Meat on-the-bone plus various tiddlers, formed the bulk of what sat in the karahi. The photo appears to accentuate the presence of Oil, with the Mutton decanted and the Masala stirred, this was a classic Desi Masala. The Rice quickly absorbed some of the Masala, I retained some in the karahi for dipping. What is this with the dipping, Hector?
There was a big Spicy – kick, the Seasoning was where it should be, eating this Karahi was going to be a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Earthy Flavours emanated from both the Meat and Masala. I quickly became aware of the Flavour of bone marrow, Sucky Bones, fun. Whilst the Mutton did not appear to be giving back Spice, its own – umami taste – was prominent. Slow cooked Greek Mutton, what’s not to like?
Tender as Meat can be, and with only the merest hint of Offal present, this could well have been the best quality Meat I have been served in this area. This was a truly tasty Karahi Gosht.
The Hector was eating, and so were the latest arrivals who had a mountain of Naan between them. The Takeaway business was a constant chain. Nothing for Marg.
Marg went back inside to discover what had happened to her Pakora Salad. One suspects that on ordering my own food, Marg’s had got lost in the process.
Pakora Salad
Eight large pieces of Pakora, not Bhaji because we known – there is no such thing as Bhaji, sat atop another freshly prepared Salad. Here there was no Cucumber, but three Black Olives had been included. We had no shortage of Cucumber on the table.
Not hot – remarked Marg as she tackled the first Pakora.
Do you add hot food to a Salad? – I asked. Is the Chicken hot in a Caesar Salad?
A Soupçon crossed the table, and by this time the Hector was also aiding the demolition of Onions, Tomato and Cucumber. This Pakora was different, a bit doughy. The Potato was discernible, but what was the light paste-like material that surrounded it? Chicken Pakora – is what the menu claimed. A Chicken Paste?
As if proof was required that every conversation on our Chinese phones is being listened to: between pondering about this strange material and the writing of this review, up popped a video on a certain social medium of uncooked Chicken being blended with cooked Rice. Why anyone would want to do this, I know not, however, the outcome strongly resembled the contents of Marg’s Pakora. Marg:
Arriving at a new curry place, we sat outside at tables with newspaper clippings of Marilyn Monroe’s death. The waitress came and took the order for Pakora Salad then went indoors with Hector.
The Salad dish came out with the green, usually minty sauce. This sauce had quite a kick, so I stopped adding it. Hector’s meal came about ten minutes later and I waited for my Pakora Salad. Eventually I went in to speak to the lady. She seemed a little confused when I mentioned Pakora Salad. I repeated that I had ordered Pakora Salad. Another five minutes and it arrived, eight pieces of Pakora on a bed of lettuce. She did apologise.
I was keen to try the Pakora, but found it lukewarm. I was not about to ask for it to be heated up.
The Pakora was mainly Potato with a base to bind it together. Some onion and the usual batter surrounded each piece. They were tasty enough, But I would have preferred them hot.
The Salad was big with large pieces of tomato, onion, lettuce, black olives. The Pakora was covered in a red, sweet sauce which was enjoyable.
Overall, I had waited too long for this dish. The Salad was lovely and the Pakora had a different taste to my usual.
On going inside to pay, I met a mature chap at the till, Mein Host, Ahmed.
The Bill
€15.00 (£13.11) … and Sterling is lower than it has been.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given, in turn, Ahmed gave me his. Ahmed was clearly impressed by the number of Curry Houses visited as I scrolled down. At the suggestion of a photo together, Ahmed appeared to be keen but then disappeared into the kitchen. He returned momentarily, with his – plus one.
Behold Shamim! Ahmed was clear that she is the Chef, and he is her assistant.
A return visit to Shinwari Grill is a given.
2025 Menu
