Zam Zam Restaurant (Via Casilina, 493, 00177 Roma RM, Italia) is only the eighth Roman Curry House to feature in Curry-Heute, and four of those have gone. Returning once more to Asian Restaurant at the foot of Trastevere would have been the easy option. Instead, Marg and Hector embarked on the trek along Via Casilina, to the east of the city, well away from any tourists. Alight at Torpignattara. 
This involved picking up the rickety Roma Giardinetti. There cannot be an older tram running along the streets of Roma, an experience in its own right.
There is a cluster of Curry Cafes around Zam Zam, the motherlode of Desi Curry in Roma has finally been identified. Orientale Ristorante, next door to Zam Zam sells Indian Fayre, they had maybe six customers.
Zam Zam proudly promotes itself as – Pakistani, each of the five tables were occupied. It was only after we squeezed ourselves on to a table at the door, with another diner in situ, that we spotted the seating out the back. Too late, from here we could survey all, and be seen.
We did stand out somewhat, a pair of caspar milquetoasts in a decidedly ethnic eatery. Two young chaps were behind the counter. One, Shoaib, invited us up to the counter. The only version of a menu was the iconic artwork on the walls. In the true style of a Desi Curry Cafe, the trays were on display, I could see Lamb on-the-bone.
Karahi Gosht? – I asked, knowing that the universal language of Curry should announce ourselves as not being random passers by.
Mutton or Beef? – was the reply.
Having tackled the Beef Karahi at Pak Tikka Shop & Grill in Athena, a few days back, the Hector was taking no chances.
One Naan – I said, holding up one finger, politely.
Marg surveyed the food on display. Daal was her first consideration, then she spotted Keema with what we took to be Daal, but then realised it was Chana Keema, different.
Roti? – appeared to draw an expression of recognition. One please.
Returning to our seats, our fellow diner may have accelerated the eating of his lunch. He finished the main course but left much of what had been served on a plastic Thali tray, and half a Naan. Who leaves half a Naan?
A water jug was on the table already. As we emptied this, so the other chap took it away for replenishment, and brought another tree of glasses to the table. We were being well looked after, our presence in the sea of men, no longer a distraction. Not even when the Hector dressed for dinner.
When the food was brought on a large tray, we were taken aback by the array. Two ample portions of Curry, two plates of what we assumed were – Dips, and four Naan.
Four Naan, two Naan each, I’ve been at this movie before, last week.
Round, ample, and served whole, these were heading towards the perfect Naan. A bit pale perhaps, but they had risen, displayed the start of blisters, light and fluffy, a given. Still, we would abandon two.
Raita, I assumed. On spooning some on to her plate, I noted there was way more happening here. Dahi Bhalla! I’ve had this at Yadgar (Glasgow). Lentils in Yoghurt with a Chat topping, much tastier than a Raita, a treat.
As for the other yellow, viscous – Dip, it couldn’t be … Marg did the finger test, Mango Lassi! But a Soupçon, when carefully poured into fresh glasses, Dessert, excellent. With all this going on, the Curry could only be wonderful.
Karahi Gosht
I didn’t count the Meat, this seemed incidental, it was the initial appearance that had me won already. A Thick, Minimal Masala, Tomato Seeds visible, this was a Desi Karahi.
Five days without Curry, five days of trying to survive on traditional Greek Cuisine and Italian Pasta, the taste-buds have been well looked after, but here, now, this Karahi, was a shock to the system.
Expletive deleted – Wow!
The blast of Flavour was oh so powerful. The wheels in Hector’s brain whirred: Cinnamon, no, Clove, no, Cumin! This Spice has certainly not featured in anything had in the last few days. A piece of Green Chilli and some Ginger Strips had been cooked in. No Whole Spices, other than these I suppose, but the occasional bone splinter had me take care.
The Mutton, there was so much happening in my mouth, I had overlooked taking notes here. Super-soft, rectified. No Sucky Bones, one cannot expect the more expensive cuts of Meat, no Offal. The combined Flavours of the Meat and the Masala was pleasure in the extreme. The Spice Level was not a challenge, but was noticeable. The Seasoning was right on the button, it had to be, nothing was going to spoil this Curry.
Yet, it was time to experiment. I too added a couple of spoons of the Dahi Bhalla to the side of my Curry plate. This added further Creaminess, a varied Texture.
The Hector was in the zone, fun in the extreme. And unlike an American sitcom, I have not telegraphed the joke. The bib had to be wiped. Today’s shirt may be blue, The Famous play later, but Marg has had enough of removing Turmeric stains from my light coloured t-shirts. The illusion of collar & tie may well become a constant feature in Curry-Heute.
Chana Keema
Mince so dark, it was surely not Chicken. The quantity of Chickpeas was sufficient to have their presence known: this was not a Vegetable Curry. The Mince was moist, not to excess, an Oily residue was collecting around the periphery of the platter.
Marg appeared to be having fun also.
A small cafe that was busy. We both squeezed in a table next to the door to join a single customer already eating. (looks as if we were at the same place) Hector asked for Lamb Karahi (no he didn’t) and I saw the Daal tray, but noticed Keema with Chickpeas next to it. I chose the Keema with a Roti.
When the tray arrived with our food, we had a good helping of Dahi Bhalla and a dish of Lassi.
My own dish had plenty flavour with a good spice level. I noticed very small pieces of red chillies, coriander and peppercorns within the sauce. A rich, oily base, also present.
A basket of four Naans arrived, they obviously came with the meal. Keema is my favourite Curry dish, and the rich meat was complemented by the chickpeas. I added the Dahi Bhalla to my plate and dipped the Naan in the Lassi. (why?)
Hector then poured the Lassi into two glasses, and I enjoyed this after I had eaten all of the Keema. An interesting meal, very enjoyable.
I reckoned everyone also received a cup of Chai. Unfortunately we were leaving at this stage.
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Whether Zam Zam is actually open 24/7, as is written on the wall, I’ll let someone else investigate. Cash or Card? Everyone was paying – Cash, and Marg had already spotted how little. I took €20.00 up to the counter.
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The Bill
€10.00 A meal for two, a substantial meal for two. This must set a new record. And for the record: Marg bought me lunch.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card issued, I trawled through all the photos in the Yadgar (Glasgow) page, Dahi Bhalley features, and of course, every other Punjabi/Pakistani menu item.
Shoabib was very compliant, he stood back such that I could secure an even better photo of the Fayre. I went out back and managed not to disturb the other diners as I captured the setting of the outside seating area.
And so The Famous lost again to a lesser team, and in Europe, where we tend to shine. That could not ruin my day, especially when preparing this review I discovered that directly across the tramway from Zam Zam is Rasai Indian Restaurant, and they serve Mutton (Desi) Korma. Next time in Roma. To ensure this we have to go to Trevi Fountain.
Does everyone know the story of how Sammy Cahn came to write – Three Coins in a Fountain?