On this dreich Sunday afternoon, Hector and Marg headed east to the capital. Mohammed Abass, proprietor of Celestia (18 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP) had invited us to review his latest enterprise. Opened in the spring of this year, Celestia follows on from Cilantro and Bo’ness Spice, both of which have been reviewed in these pages.
Located on an arterial road in the heart of Stockbridge, Celestia aims to deliver a luxury dining experience. Heavenly Cuisine – served in the north-west of Edinburgh, with prices to match, the opposite end of the spectrum from Marg and Hector’s €5.00 feast at Zam Zam (Roma) posted last month.
Celestia opens daily at 13.00 and remains so all afternoon, perfect for those of us who enjoy a Curry mid-afternoon. Arriving early for our 17.00 booking, we would be the first diners this evening. Greeted by the young waitress, she checked the book to verify our reason for being here. Mein Host would not be present today, one day we’ll actually meet. 
With the choice of any seats in the restaurant, we took a corner table at the window. The decidedly deluxe menu was brought, drinks were sorted, a large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25?).
For the less abstemious, there are two beer taps, the Indian IPA will have to be explored at a later date.
When invited to review a restaurant, and today makes five in the east of Scotland, our model has been to eschew Starters and concentrate on the Curry: two main courses and a Vegetable Side. To not have a Starter at Celestia would surely be a mistake. Thought and imagination have clearly been applied here, how could one resist such an array of Interesting Vegetarian Starters? Marg selected – Assorted Vegetable Crisp (£7.95), whilst the Hector chose Potato Khubani Tiki Chat (£9.75).
The Hector already knew his choice of main course: Gongora Lamb Mamam (£18.95). Gongora (sorrel/roselle) is a herb seen oft in Asian grocers, but to date, never bought by this commentator. A sour leaf used in South Indian cooking, this would be a new experience. Despite – bell pepper – being clearly mentioned on the menu, Marg surprised me by opting for Lamb Karahi (£17.95). Back to the model: Mushroom Pulao (£4.95) and a Butter Naan (3.50) would complete the Order.
Even dining at Celestia as guests, it would not be true to Curry-Heute if I did not admit to steering Marg away from her customary Roti (£3.25). Especially having just returned from Bradford where, traditionally, three Chapattis are included with each main course. All things in perspective, this is fine dining, but Bread remains flour and water.
Poppadoms etc. were offered, as apparently they always must, declined. I explained that we had no wish to fill up on these when much better things awaited.
I asked that there would be a substantial gap between Starters and main courses.
With further time to take in the surroundings, pink and purple was Marg’s take, the Hector went for – lilac, the illumination is the major feature of the décor. No tablecloths, yay, every table was set to match the menu. Ambient piano music, filled the air. Between tracks, someone in the kitchen held fort. Ambience, Marg likes ambience, the antithesis of my Bradford Curry last week where one had to ask for cutlery. Hector can enjoy Curry in both Worlds.
Potato Khubani Tiki Chat
Clearly, this was neither Bradford or Roma, the presentation bordered on the spectacular. Topped with Sev, this Chat had the expected ingredients – abundant Chana, (Chickpeas) and the three sauces: Yoghurt, Tamarind and Green Chutney. Pomegranate Seeds and Cress also formed part of the garnish. This was going to be a veritable melange of Textures and hopefully Flavours.
Whole Potato is what was expected, instead, a more complex Mash sat beneath the Toppings, two balls. I would have preferred these to be served hotter, but maybe that would have interfered with the other ingredients. On tackling the Potato Mash, Cumin was to the fore.
Well Seasoned, the Tamarind playing a significant part here, there was also a considerable kick, from where, I never established. Khubani, apricot, wherever this was, again not picked up by this diner. Perhaps in the Mash?
The gritty Sev, fine noodles made from Chana Flour, more associated with Bombay Mix, marked one end of the spectrum of Textures, the Potato Mash, the other. In between, the seasonal Pomegranate was a welcome addition. In terms of both Texture and Flavours, the synergy of this creation impressed.
Assorted Vegetable Crisp
Pomegranate, Cress and the artistic flourish of Sauces immediately caught the eye, the Banana Leaf beneath, all part of the creativity. Hector does not see this in the humble Curry Cafes of Glasgow’s Southside. The principal players: three masses of what I shall describe as Bhaji-meets-Pakora. Regular readers should predict the intrusion of – there ain’t no such thing as an Onion Bhaji. Hector’s Soupçon was half of one ball. With Potato and Onion most identifiable, I found these to be – Dry. Marg kept offering the red sauce, I resisted, and continued to marvel at the Seasoning. This was at the – brave – end of the scale. Karrah! – no Seasoning, no Flavour.
My reason for resisting the red sauce was my, wrong as it happened, assumption that this was the disgustingly Sweet, standard, bottled Chilli Sauce, which is universally employed. Far from it, an in-house creation, else Celestia’s Chef has found a better source of materials than everyone else. Chilli, Tomato, sharp, most unusual, and not Sweet! The relatively dry Bhaji/Pakora was thus complemented.
Marg now gets to speak:
I chose Assorted Vegetable Crisp expecting something a little different, but three fairly large pieces of Pakora were on my plate. The rolled Pakora was full of onion, potato, peas with cress, tiny seeds of pomegranate, tiny cubes of beetroot and tomato displayed on the side. I enjoyed them and added the red spicy sauce for more moisture.
The clean plates were removed by the waitress, I proposed serving the Curry at 17.30, a decent gap. Marg said she was already raring to go. Calm.
In the interval, a new member of staff joined the team. He would engage with us for the remainder of our meal. New to Celestia, at this point I gave him the Calling Card to explain who we are, and why we were here, just in case…
At exactly 17.30, two hot plates were brought to the table, the main courses soon followed.
Mushroom Rice has become Hector’s thing in 2025, some outstanding examples are reviewed, particularly in Glasgow’s West End. Sadly, Celestia’s was not in the same league. Again, value for money in Sundries is a common thread throughout Curry-Heute. This portion was hardly commensurate with the price, even allowing for the pukka atmosphere.
The small bowl was almost too hot to handle, a positive. The contents, however, cooled rapidly, even on the hot dinner plate. The Tarka-Onion aside, as a Pulao, there was nothing distinctive in terms of Flavour. The soft Mushrooms, although fresh, disappointed. Firm is so much better. Perhaps Mushrooms grow better in the West?
The Mushroom Rice shared, there wasn’t much on the plate. So, no wastage, unlike many a Euro-Curry experience.
Not the largest, but featuring the genuine Tandoori Texture, the Butter Naan was risen, blistered, puffy, as the Hector seeks. Served in quarters, why? Whole Bread makes much more of an impression, and permits the joy of tearing off strips. As the meal progressed, the Naan quickly disappeared, Marg’s preference for Bread over Rice. Then some Naan miraculously reappeared. Hector’s right to share was recognised, also Marg’s acceptance that she was rapidly filling. Surprisingly, a quarter of the Naan would remain.
Gongora Lamb Mamam
The beauty contest was over, now for the main event. Curry Leaves, part of the mysterious Topping, were quickly absorbed as I decanted. Ten pieces of Meat, of varied size, were arranged over the Rice. This left the Masala, suitably Thick, viscous, blended one assumes, no surplus Oil. The Earthy aroma already had me onside. Some may consider this Curry to be – Soupy, else, this may be how the majority expect Curry to appear.
A new Flavour! The reason why I had chosen this Dish. Earthy indeed, Dry-tasting, sources suggest – Tangy and Sour – is what was to be expected. The Seasoning was remarkable, beyond – brave!
Moderately Spiced – was noted at the start, towards the end, this was revised upwards. From where this extra – kick – originated was not revealed.
The Naan dipped in the Masala was one side of the meal. Here the true intensity of the sauce was revealed. Curry and Rice ran in parallel, the Tenderest of Lamb came into play. The Meat was giving back just enough to earn Hector’s praise. This is why I was here, this is why Curry-Heute is written. The Chef at Celestia has created a blend of Herbs and Spice which has never previously been encountered, and most importantly, it worked.
The waiter approached to ask the customary question.
I’m tasting something new! – I exclaimed.
Apart from the free food, this most certainly had made the journey worthwhile.
I would definitely have this again, however, on a return visit, the equally unique Karahi would have to be explored.
Lamb Karahi
The Toppings here had more of a flourish, was that a whole Chilli hiding beneath a Ginger Strip and what I took to be large-leafed Coriander? At this time, the Hector’s attention was firmly elsewhere.
The Thick Masala had all the signs of being Tomato-based, so certainly not from the same pot as the above. Once more, no peripheral Oil. When a Soupçon crossed the table, I was somewhat taken aback by the difference in Flavour from my own Curry. A major juxtaposition, I explored no further less I spoil my own meal. One key feature did have to be established:
How may pieces of Capsicum?
None.
When Marg did unveil the two whole Green Chillies, she knew the best way of dealing with them. Hopefully, they had already completed their mission.
The Hector shall continue to despair that Mainstream Restaurants insist on serving big blobs of Onion and Capsicum in their so-called – Karahi. None here, a big tick, so the – bell pepper – had been blended in, one surmises. I am fine with that, although the Flavour of the Masala can be impaired. Was that my reaction to my Soupçon? Towards the end, Marg was offering me her last three pieces of Lamb, declined. I believe the Meat content of her Karahi was greater than my Curry. Marg:
My main dish, Lamb Karahi, was served in a fancy pottery dish and we already had very hot plates for our food. I had some Mushroom Rice and added large pieces of lamb and thick sauce. The various textures added to the overwhelming flavour. The meat was very tender and I used my fork to cut them into smaller pieces. The thick masala contained dried green chillies, cardamom and coriander. Overall, the dish was very filling with both rice and some pieces of crispy naan bread. A very enjoyable dish, full of flavour.
I missed the Cardamom, another Whole Spice. In the parameters of Curry-Heute, this certainly promotes Celestia to a higher league, and sets it apart from the – Mainstream. Maybe Lamb on-the-bone at Celestia might be a step too far?
At the end, but a scrap of Naan remained.
Two other couples had arrived, they sat separately at the the far side, near the other window. This was evidently one couples’ first visit to Celestia, I heard them say they had occasionally passed and decided to give it a try. I did see a few people outside study the menu posted at the doorway, maybe one day?
The waiter brought the Dessert / Hot Beverage menu, the waitress came to take an Order. On another day, I would not have walked away from the Wild Berry Cheesecake (£11.95). Marg and I were both of the opinion that we were not here to abuse the hospitality, but review the Curry. The waitress tried further to tempt:
– the Gulab Jamun (£10.95) is made here.
I explained that I like to leave – savoury – on the palate. Marg typically has other ideas.
The Cumin Seed, which usually dislodges itself an hour or so after Curry eating, magically appeared before our departure, most unusual. Savoury! Desi!
One day we shall get to meet Mr. Mohammed Abass, now that I have completed my task, I thank him again for his hospitality. Our appreciation, as always, to Scott and Julia of – Hotels PR – who once again made today possible.
2025 Menu
