Zaika (61a High Street, Dumbarton, Dunbartonshire, G82 1LS) popped up on a well known online map system, the name rang a bell, but this was a different spelling of Berlin’s finest Desi Curry House – Punjabi Zaiqa. Given that Dumbarton is closer to Hector’s House than Glasgow’s Southside, one always has hopes for this town.
Zaika opened eight weeks ago, so Mein Host assured me, in the premises which were Bollywood Lounge for long enough and One Up before that. An upstairs venue on the High Street, directly opposite the town centre shopping parade which is rapidly disappearing, there is little competition around these streets. The Dining Room @No.10 has long gone, Delhi Darbar, my late night Pakora stop maintains, Haveli, a Buffet House, simply does not attract.
Marg and Hector entered Zaika at 14.10 this Friday afternoon. Two tables were occupied, a group of seven then a couple at a window table with a wean. Fortunately, the latter soon left, with parents. A spacious room, we have been here before, we stood at the entrance for some five minutes, no staff. In time, I chose a table at the far end of the room, away from the group. A waitress emerged from the kitchen, then a turbaned chap, Mein Host. Sadly, there would be no engagement with him for some time.
Hector had questions to ask, the young waitress would probably not know the answers. Having studied the menu in advance, Punjabi Korma (Lamb – £11.95) was the standout Dish. Slightly hot with cream and lemon – this intrigued. I love the Citrus Flavour in a Desi Korma, was this it, but why Cream and not Yoghurt? The description of Punjabi Karahi (Lamb – £12.95) was going well until the added – Peppers and Onions. Hector, the relentless, will never give up questioning their inclusion – Ballast! Railway Lamb Curry (£12.95) could be anything. Mangalore Goat Kari, with Potatoes and presumably no Capsicum, took me back to my Kadhi thoroughly enjoyed at Annaya’s (Helensburgh) last week. Served on-the-bone, I am surprised I did not have this. However, Rajasthani Laal Maas (Lamb – £12.95) could not be resisted. One day I’ll recapture the wonder which was the Laal Lahori as served in the halcyon days at The Village (Glasgow). Zaika’s Laal Maas specifically mentioned – whole masala – so something which could meet the Desi criteria. Then there was – Desi Jalfrezi (Lamb – £12.95) – aye right, instantly dismissed. Why use this term for one Curry only on the menu and why this one?
So much to consider, no opperchancity to discuss.
Marg decided that the Lunch Menu (£9.95) would best match her needs. The inclusion of Vegetable Pakora and two Chapattis (£1.50) immediately made this sound like a deal. Lamb Bhoona would be her main course. Marg also decided to dismiss our customary Sparkling Water (£2.50) in favour of tap water.
Mushroom & Peas Rice (£3.50) would complete the Order. Hector’s study of Mushrooms continues. The Order placed, we watched the continuing deluge outside. Better inside than out. Another couple arrived, more business than I anticipated on a Friday afternoon. Are people discovering that this is the best time of day to enjoy a Curry? Closed on a Tuesday, Zaika is open all afternoon on Friday and Saturday, from 16.00 otherwise.
Vegetable Pakora
Five good-sized pieces with a Tomato/Chilli Sauce. One piece crossed the table and was duly dissected. The classic Onion-Potato-Coriander was present, not a bad wee kick from this Pakora, tasty too. On dipping the second half, the sauce was found to be a cut above the usual Sweet Chilli Sauce which I try to avoid.
Crispy and warm – was Marg’s take on the Pakora. As a portion, ideal as a Starter, I’m sure I’ve paid full price for less Pakora in some city restaurants.
The presentation of the main courses was after a short, and appropriate gap. 
The Chapattis were the traditional ones, so hard to source these days. These I prefer by far. My little scrap would be used to test my Masala, after the ritual photograph.
The Mushroom Rice appeared to be a modest portion. Spread on the plate, definitely not for sharing, a sensible quantity. Unlike that served in Berlin’s namesake. The Mushrooms were firm, fresh, and so receive the thumbs up. The Peas were, well, Peas. The lightly Spiced Rice was not giving off any discernible Flavour.
Rajasthani Laal Maas
The Dry Red Chilli set the tone for this Curry no prisoners were being taken, not that I would be mad enough to eat this Topping. I arranged the ten pieces of Meat over the Rice and as is my custom, retained a fair dollop of the Masala for later. The Chilli could just stay where it was. The reddish-brown Masala was certainly viscous, no Shorva here. After Monday’s Sri Lankan experience at Kothu Rotti, this was a markedly different Curry.
The dipping of my toty piece of Chapatti into the Masala provoked a reaction. The Spice took me by surprise, catching the back of the throat. Start again, now I knew what I was dealing with.
OK, this Curry was up at the so-called Vindaloo level of Spice, correspondingly, the nose would run. The Hector can cope. Anyone can make a Spicy Curry, the Flavour is way more important. Where was it?
The Seasoning was way down, way, way down, worryingly so. Consequently, there was hardly any Flavour at all coming from this Curry. Mein Host approached the table right on cue to ask the customary question.
Having mentioned the lack of Seasoning, I had to ask:
Do you know the term – Karrah – the Seasoning brings out the Flavours?
He said he would deliver my comment to the kitchen.
I ate on. Tomato was the only discernible Flavour. The Lamb became incidental, not even the Flavour of – Mutton, a passenger in this meal. A pity, Tender to firm, the Meat had a decent Texture.
The menu clearly stated – whole masala. The only other solid in the Masala was sliced Syboes, no sign of any Whole Spice. So what had happened here?
Finishing the meal, this was very much a case of – it’s Curry, and so I must have enjoyed it. I will not be having this again.
Lamb Bhoona
Topped with some Coriander, and served in a small karahi, commensurate with being from the Lunch Menu, the Bhoona’s Masala was remarkably similar to the Laal Maas. Maybe a bit less – red. Hector’s Soupcon was duly sampled.
Oh, way better, there was a – sweet-warmth – emanating from this creation. I would happily have had this, though I do expect my Bhuna to be drier, less Masala. This was Marg’s Curry, the quantity was perfect for her:
A small dish with large pieces of lamb in a thick sauce which contained coriander and rich flavours of tomato and onion. I was able to cut the pieces of lamb before eating. The meat was soft in texture and overall a filling dish and I left a quarter of the second chapatti.
At least one of us was happy.
I should have ordered the – Goat. Next time.
The Bill
£26.40
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given to Mein Host. I firstly showed the dedicated page for Punjabi Zaiqa (Berlin) – one of best Curry Houses in Germany – I informed him. On showing – Glasgow’s Top Rated – he recognised the Big Names, but not the more obscure venues favoured in Curry-Heute. And so down to the business of today’s Curry.
I raised the lack of – whole masala. He started telling me that the Spices are removed from the Rice before serving, a diversion. I quoted the description of the Laal Maas on the menu. Where was the Whole Spice? A bit of an open goal. The menu was misleading.
Back to my Curry and its lack of Flavour: there was no sense of Cumin, Clove, Cinnamon and Cardamom in this creation. Anyone can make my nose run, that’s not what Curry is about.
Good luck – was my parting comment.