Glasgow – Ambala – It Has Been A While

In 2021, there were eight Curry-Heute reviews for Ambala (11 Forth St., Glasgow, Scotland, G41 2SP), thereafter, just one per year. Hector is a regular no more. Evidently, tastes change and other venues entice. Last week’s rediscovery of Original Khyber and their fine Namkeen Karahi may well exemplify this.

January has therefore commanded another review of Ambala, and an update of their menu. As is justifiable, prices have increased. Bread, however, has the Hector in despair. During our visit this afternoon, I contacted Lord Clive of Crawley to advise him that I would not be bringing him back to Ambala. He has a preference for a (Keema) Mince Nan (£8.99). His reply conveyed the deduction that Ambala’s Keema Naan would be four times the size of that encountered in Whitechapel, but if so, who could manage it? £8.99 for a Naan, not even in Aberdoom, until proven otherwise.

Marg negotiated the chaos that is Forth Street in the afternoon. Two Curry Houses, but it is the other businesses which are responsible for the congestion. As we entered through the pukka, automatic doors at 14.45, the young manger on duty clearly remembered me.

As Marg went off to check the facilities, so he recalled, wrongly, that I write for a newspaper. Hector may well have appeared in a newspaper of sorts in recent weeks, I didn’t disillusion him. That every table was set, quite a departure from years gone by, I did make my remark that Ambala is now very much a restaurant, Deli Bar, no more.

You usually come alone – was another observation. True, but that was before Marg realised that if she doesn’t join Hector for Curry on a Monday, she might not be fed.

Given the choice of tables in the otherwise empty restaurant, we chose the corner, window table.

Empty, but not for long, a couple with two weans arrived moments later, but fortunately chose to sit on the far side, behind the partition. The sigh of relief was interrupted by more of the same who sat along from us. Even the electronic distractions did not prevent the inevitable outbreak of training for the next Olympics, assuming that – running at top speed between restaurant tables – has become a new event. Soon there was a relay with a member of the other family. One parent did try to curtail this, the child demonstrated who was boss.

This has been a common occurrence in visits to Ambala over the years, and consciously or otherwise, may go some way to explain why Hector does not visit often. That I no longer favour Lahori Chaska Lamb Karahi, possibly their Signature Dish, the other. At £42.99 for the kilo, the top end of what is charged in this city. And 34% more than what was paid last week at Original Khyber, for something arguably superior. Additionally, £25.99 for the half kilo here, is not going attract the solo diner.

Fish Karahi (£15.99) commendably the same price as the Lamb Dishes, was Hector’s planned Curry for today. Over the years, my enjoyment of this much sought after Curry has varied markedly at Ambala. It has been a while, time to have another go. Nan Bread (£3.20) would accompany. With Marg still indisposed, I was doing the ordering. Keema Karahi (£13.99) with a Tandoori Roti (£1.70). Even Marg had noted the price of a Chapatti (£1.99) and was content to have the lesser Bread.

The waitress asked if that was with Peas or Potato.

Why not both?

Duly recorded.

A bottle of Tap Water would suffice, well not quite. Marg was not for letting the opperchancity of having Kashmiri Tea (£3.99) pass her by. To be brought, as and when ready.

In my discourse with Clive by text, he enquired as to the price of a Poppadom. £2.99, they come in pairs, so be warned. Again, advice for the reader, Fanta etc.  are charged at the equivalent of  £12.00 a litre. Is this the shape of things to come? What will 2027 bring? Watch this space.

Two Dips were brought, as is the Ambala custom. As we were not having Starters, and I am not going to wind myself up any more by checking the price of Lamb Chops, the Dips remained untouched.

Food crafted from scratch – is proudly posted on the wall. The wait was therefore appropriate.

Both Breads halved and in one basket. Better than quartered, but why not – whole?

*

A Wholemeal Roti, as enjoyed by Marg. She managed one half only. Maybe Bread could be charged by size?

The Naan, round, not the preferred Tandoori Teardrop, was pale, but well risen, puffy, and had blisters forming. I thoroughly enjoyed this Bread, eating way more than my norm. But a scrap would remain.

Fish Karahi

No karahi, a ceramic dish, why? Coriander Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies topped the plateful. The Texture of the Masala revealed the presence of Yoghurt. With the peripheral Oil at an acceptable level, no panic, and no watery residue either.

There was plenty of Fish beneath the Masala. Definitely not Scottish Haddock, Coley/Pollock the best guess. That the Hector feels confident to even write this, quite a development. Sadly, compared to Haddock, this Fish tends to be a bit slimy, rubbery, however, it was not overcooked, as good a Texture as this Fish can have.

And it tasted of Fish!

This statement is not to be taken lightly. What’s more, the Fish retained its heat long after everything else had started to cool.

Back to the Masala. The Seasoning was right up there, this had me onside immediately. My pleasure was therefore communicated across the table. With quality Bread, Masala and Fish, I established that I was going to enjoy this Fish Curry.

Mid meal, I piled everything to one side of the plate to see how much Oil would drain to the other. Acceptable, and so all was stirred, carry on, Hector.

Still though, there was something missing. There was no great depth of Flavour here. Is it memory or imagination, is Hector’s idyllic Fish Curry actually achievable?

Today, the – Seasoning is all – mantra was in vogue.

Keema Karahi – Aloo Mutter

The same Toppings, the same dish, no karahi. Importantly, no peripheral Oil, a Dry Curry, as this must be, the merest threat of a Masala. A dry-moist – was an early description given by Marg.

I studied the Potato, it was not discoloured to any depth, so cannot have been left to sit and absorb Spice, hence Flavour, as in my favoured Curry Cafes. Still, Potato remains a wonderful element of any Curry.

Given the discard pile, Marg must have had more slices of Bullet Chilli than were on my plate.

*

Marg: A ceramic dish full of lamb mince with peas and potatoes. There was a sprinkle of ginger, coriander and green chillies on top. My Tandoori Roti was cut in half, and I only managed to eat one half. The dish had a spicy kick when you ate a chilli and the mince went well with the peas and potatoes. Plenty of flavour from the potatoes. A dry, but tasty meal.

She dreams of Kashmiri Tea – was my remark to the waitress when this was presented.

Marg assured me otherwise, but it was certainly appreciated:

A lovely pink Kashmiri Tea arrived. The hot milk makes the lips tingle from the spicy meal and the tea was full of pistachio nuts and spices A great was to finish a meal.

*

I went up to the till to pay, as remains the system at Ambala. Our enjoyment was relayed. The waitress made reference to the cost of the Tea.

The Bill

£33.88    Complimentary Tea, cheers!

The Aftermath

There was. a nod towards the kitchen. Time was, I knew the Chefs here

Ten minutes later, the Cumin Seed dislodged itself. It has been a while.

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