Saravanaa Bhavan (468 Sauchiehall St, Glasgow G2 3LW) declared its imminent opening in the middle of last year, it took a while. An international chain serving Vegetarian South Indian Cuisine only, not exactly a pull factor to have Hector visit, but in keeping with maintaining the full coverage of all venues Glasgow, it had to be done. Potentially, I had two fellow diners this Saturday afternoon, one expected to dine on the Southside, the other’s cry was – nae meat.
Nae Meat – these pages will never celebrate those who continuously deny themselves this source of protein. That historically, due to inherent poverty, Meat was not available to the masses, fair dos.
Last night, Marg and Hector watched The Founder, the story of the chap who did not establish a well known Hamburger chain, but was responsible for their growth into a multinational company, taking all the glory, and the money. The story of The (actual) Founder of Saravanaa Bhavan is similarly nefarious: died in 2019 after being convicted and sentenced for orchestrating the murder of an employee’s husband in an attempt to marry the man’s wife, who had rejected his proposal, leaving the ownership now in the hands of his estate or successors … a possibly reliable online source of information reveals.
Arriving at 15.00, what better time to eat, many evidently agreed. The seating area front of house was full of family groups with a corresponding number of weans. I stood for a few minutes before a waiter came to greet.
A table for one – having instructed me to take a seat in the waiting area before disappearing to the rear of the restaurant, he didn’t return. Nor did I sit, why become invisible? I was moments from leaving when a charming waitress led me straight into the restaurant towards the rear. The large room there was busy, I saw three tables free. However, I was given a small table between the front and rear, two metres from the loudest wean, great. As I squeezed in, I noted the four tables, in this almost secluded section, were occupied by indigenous British, the rest of the restaurant, Indian, segregation then. Why?
During my wait at the entrance, there was time to take in a poster. It revealed that today only, January 17, a special Pongal Thali was being served, pre booking only. Pongal is the harvest festival, in case there’s anyone who did not know this. Pongal is celebrated by the cooking of – new Rice. Now we know.
I wouldn’t be having that then, but Thali was very much in Hector’s mind. Two Curry items on the menu had caught the eye whilst researching: Aloo Palak (£8.95) and Mushroom Rogan Josh (£8.95). Whilst an Interesting Vegetable is always welcome as part of any Curry, the thought of these without Meat/Fish did not feel right. In the – Rice – section of the menu – Sarvananaa Special Meals (£10.95) (not to be shared) should have Diversity, and hopefully let me choose the aforementioned Curry items. The Puri option also enticed. That was the plan.
Wading through the menu, it took a few minutes to find my meal of choice. A metal jug of water, already on the table, was soon complemented by a metal goblet, brought to the table by the chap who had abandoned me earlier.
Lots of staff, serving the back room, yet it was my original waitress who came to take the Order. I established that Aloo Palak and Mushroom Rogan Josh were possible as the two Curry options in the Dish, what a strange moniker. As I began to feel pleased with myself, so deflation was immediate.
Not today, Pongal Thali only.
So much for – pre booking only – and why had the waitress permitted the development of our conversation re – Saravanaa Special Meals?
Pongal Thali it would be then.
Do you want bread?
It doesn’t come with bread?
Having no knowledge of what I was committing myself to, only later did I capture the photo of the components, I was invited to turn around and study the table behind me. The enthusiasm of the diners was infectious, I was encouraged to play along and was assured there would be plenty food and, no Bread was required.
As I waited, I took in my surroundings. Quite a place, I was never here when it was a bar. Indeed, this was the first time I had set foot in any part of the Beresford, possibly Glasgow’s most famous art deco building.
The family group behind me to my left took their leave. The weans had gone, the atmosphere in the restaurant improved dramatically in an instant. Why am I here? – had drifted through the mind, now I was game for anything, bring it on!
Pongal Thali
A large round tray, with most of the contents obscured by a Poppadom, fork, spoon and what I took to be a Banana Leaf in the poly bag, was presented. I took a serviette, opened it, then laid it flat on the table. The Poppadom/Appalam was broken up and arranged on the serviette. Maybe later, probably not.
Fifteen Pots were arranged around the centre of the tray, a central eating area? The centre featured a Banana, a Fritter/Doughnut and a stalk. The Hector does not eat any Banana which no longer features green skin. Too Sweet, wrong Texture. The stalk I took to be Bamboo, Hector is a Hound, not a Panda.
I opened the poly bag, not a Banana Leaf but some other evergreen leaf. Still, I assumed this was my – plate.
A waiter brought a – Special Drink – along with a sachet on which was written – Betel Nut. The drink, I have now established as being Paanagam, was cold, Gingery, flat. Not appetising.
As the people behind me departed, so the lady admired my use of the leaf, she hadn’t though of that. She warned me about the Betel Nut, her husband suggested Tamarind as an ingredient of the Special Drink which he described as a palate cleanser. Paanagam has both Ginger and Tamarind. The Banana was for Dipping they revealed/suggested, the stalk was Sugar Cane, aka Karumbu. Why slave, sugar plantation workers with metal plates fixed to their mouths to stop them eating, came to mind, who knows. On turning it over, it still looked like Bamboo, not for me. Why eat Sugar?
The Betel Nut, was this the – Vethalai Pakku?
Nearest me were two Rice Pots, with a third top left. Why three? Why Stodgy Rice? This was even worse than the Rice served by Hector forty years ago before the microwave guaranteed discrete grains. I tried one, Sweet, I tried another, Sweet, wtf? Get them off the tray.
And so to the Curry Pots, or were they?
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I saw nothing resembling my original hoped for Aloo Palak or Mushroom Rogan Josh. Black Chana I recognised, Marg had a Curry based on this at Shahi Mahal last year. Chickpeas, not my favourite, but at least familiar. Seasoned, earthy, Black Chana Sundal is the given name of this creation.
At this point, the Hector has to reveal that the names attributed to each Pot have been added a posteriori. The Banana and the tiny Pot of Chilli, whose size suggested all one needed to know, were the only components I could identify with confidence. The Tamil names were completely unknown, Hector knows his menus in Punjabi/Urdu. I have hopefully matched most, but with degrees of freedom remaining and the visual clues not matching the found written, who knows. The joy of a Blog versus a magazine article, errors can be sorted. Those who do know, please advise.
The Fritter was doughy, but not a Doughnut, no sweetness here. This was Thayir Medu Vadi – I can reveal with confidence, and made from Lentils and Yoghurt. The Pot, top right, with the brown liquid was begging to have the Thayir Medu Vadi dipped in it. Now we had sweetness, this Pot was removed from the tray.
With three Pots set aside, the waitress was back to check on my progress. On explaining that I was isolating the Sweets, she removed another, bottom right, which did look Sugary.
Next, I’ll call it Vegetable Soup, a Sambar, I was told. Sambar Satham – is written, again, with confidence. This was significantly different from a Shorva, more solids. In terms of Flavour, not much happening here.
This left three to four Pots as yet untouched. Where was Hector’s dinner?
The Pot with the Dry looking cuboids, I considered to be Kothu, chopped Roti, with Peas as served here. Nope, this was not Bread. It wasn’t Meat, Tofu? If this was Tofu, a first encounter, you can keep it. Hector Holmes has interpreted this as – Senai Kilangu Poriyal – or – Elephant Yam, which features chopped Tamarind. I prefer the Sauce, by far.
What I took to be a Daal featured some Carrot. A decent kick, here, some flavour, pleasant – Kathamba Kootu aka Pongal Kootu, is my best match. Another source suggests seven Vegetables could/should feature: Potato, Sweet Potato, Broad Beans, Raw Banana, Pumpkin, Ash Gourd and Lima Beans. Not that many here.
The remaining Pot, at three o’clock, had a definite South Indian warmth. Finally, something I would happily have eaten a full plate of.
Vengaya Pulusu – Egglant, Tamarind, featured in the given list, I found nothing that could have been this.
Tapas/Thali, if anything, the above confirmed that this is not my thing. I wanted my dinner.
Time for Dessert.
The cold Stodgy Rice with Cashews is apparently – Sakkarai Pongal. Then there was the cold Stodgy Rice, with Pomegranate Seeds, The Seeds tempered the Sweetness elsewhere. The next Stodgy Rice featured Black Peppercorns and Curry Leaves. Vanilla is what registered on Hector’s palate. This was – Ven Pongal aka Khara Pongal, a savoury Rice Pudding.
Khara! We’re back talking the language Hector is familiar with: Khara, Salt.
Apart from the Savoury, all the Sweet Dishes tasted familiar, essentially Kheer variants. Sweet, same underlying Flavour.
Paasi Paruppu Payasam, Kalkandu Pongal, Milagu Pongal could not be differentiated. Insert where appropriate.
As illustrated, various combinations were tried. There was no escaping the fact, I was left with a mass of cold food, not my preferred way of eating.
Some Pots were emptied, some less so. More Diverse than Interesting – may summarise the meal, an experience, with Hector still at bottom of this learning curve. There is little desire to eat Indian Food in this style. This is Curry-Heute, it’s about Curry. Only two Pots were considered to be as such. As with my first and only Sushi experience, can I go for my dinner now?
How was the food? – asked the waitress who cleared the table.
Different.
The Bill
£19.99
The Aftermath
The Calling Card presented to the waitress who had looked after me. I admitted, my field of expertise is Curry, not Thali.
The waitress suggested I return for – Dosa. Maybe, one day.
Without Meat? Probably not.
With the array outlined to Marg later, there was an emphasis on the Sweet element.
That might be my best meal, ever – she exclaimed.
I presented the Banana. Marg eats yellow Bananas, even with black bits.
2026 Menu
