1976, Hector’s first trip to München, a city that became an instant favourite. Where have fifty years gone? It wasn’t until the dawn of Curry-Heute that food from the Indian subcontinent became a significant part to any visit to München. For the first decade in Curry-Heute, Indian Mango reined supreme. Founder, Herr Jolly Kunjappu, retired, his colleague, Herr Madhu Battra, succeeded, before eventually moving on to establish Dessi Tadka (Hofmannstraße 43, 81379 München, Deutschland).
Marg and Hector rolled up at Dessi Tadka, having taken a bus from Hirschgarten. An evening Curry, our first at these premises. We were allocated a table at the front, another first. On studying the menu, the prices remained the same as last year, but the layout had changed. The – Home- Style – Desi – dishes on page one. Still no inclusion of Lamm / Fisch Chettinad, the Curry which caused a revolution in Hector’s appreciation of deutsche Curry.
I asked the young waitress if Chef Pintu was on the premises. He wasn’t, but she deferred to the manager who then remembered me.
If Chef Pintu or Herr Battra were here, I could have Fisch Chettinad.
Herr Battra is through the back.
Not for much longer, duly summoned, both he and his colleague met here on visit #1 appeared, beaming. Hugs.
Fisch Chettinad (€20.90) was duly ordered. I assured Marg she would manage it, she has had it before. Mein Host thus became Chef and was in the kitchen for the next twenty five minutes. His colleague tried to engage, however, my Deutsch was not up to it, his English, comparable. Ten years ago, the Hector could converse, to a degree. So much time spent in Berlin has killed off any need to speak anything other than English.
Given Marg’s preference for Bread, I added a Naan (€3.00) to the Order as the waitress brought the 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€7.50). Bier is cheaper than water in München.
Naan mit Raita – was her acknowledgement.
Somehow, both arrived way to soon. The modest Naan, halved, with multiple blisters, was a bit on the thin side. Eaten fresh, wonderful. What was left of it when the food arrived, had turned crispy. So, yes, we had got stuck in to the Dip. The Raita tasted somewhere between what was expected and Humus. Interesting.
New arrivals were shown through to the rear. Was the front being deliberately emptied? A table with three adults and four weans were creating the usual outcome. Adults trying to enjoy their food, weans bored with their Fries already, and causing as much havoc as the parents would tolerate. Hector’s level of tolerance is – even less.
A succession of Delivery chaps paraded at the counter. Business appears to be solid at Dessi Tadka.
A large handi brimming with Basmati accompanied the Curry, inclusive, as is the European way. Marg wouldn’t take much Rice, the Hector what could be managed. There was a significant quantity wasted.
Fisch Chettinad
In the halcyon days at Indian Mango, the entire restaurant would have been filled with blue smoke as the Fish was prepared. There must be a better air filtering system at Dessi Tadka. And so, the aroma of anticipation was lacking today.
Topped with slices of Lemon and Tomato, and the merest threat of Coriander, the Fish flakes protruded in the mass of, well, is it actually a Curry? This Dry Chettinad is somewhere between Curry and Stir-Fry. There is no Masala to decant, just a mass of Fisch and the other magical ingredients, which certainly included sliced Green Chillies.
The Spice Level was such that no prisoners were being taken. I knew immediately that Marg would protest, well to me at least. Her solution was to take some of the remaining Raita and mix in as required.
For a Fish Curry, the Seasoning was decidedly low. However, the usual problem was not about to be manifested. There was a sufficient level of – Fishiness – therefore plenty of Flavour.
For the first half of my Curry, that which made the once Indian Mango Chettinad so distinctive, emerged slowly, the South Indian smokiness. By the end, it was as near as damn it. This Fisch Chettinad remained far superior to any other Fish Curry served – anywhere.
The ending is always a moment of sadness. Today, this was postponed. Marg had done her best, quite a bit of the remnants in her handi came my way. Pleasure sustained.
Marg was not finished. Indian Masala Chai (€4.00) was duly ordered. Marg:
I made a bed of boiled rice and added the dry, rich, Fish Chettinad on top. The glorious smells from the roasted spices had my mouth watering. I knew the spices might be a little too strong for my palate, but I persevered. The pieces of fish made the dish and I enjoyed the finely chopped tomato with the smokey, roasted chillies. The Raita sauce helped to cool down my and the now crispy Naan bread was also able to calm some of the general heat.
I enjoyed the Indian Chai afterwards to reduce the heat of the spices.
I did suggest to Marg that had she waited ten minutes, all would be well. As for my share of the Sparkling Water, I did wait before drinking it. Water does not dissipate Spice on the palate.
Herr Battra came over to chat. Marg admitted that, for her, the Spice was a bit much.
Madhu now has five Curry Houses. Exactly where they all are may be established later in the year. He and his #1 colleague had to take their leave, a meeting to attend.
A token Dessert was presented, Mango Lassi, always appreciated, and this did cool the palate. There may have been only two Pomegranate Seeds, they delivered well above their weight.
The Bill
€52.30 (£45.58) The Chai was complimentary. Thank you.
Quite a few card machines seen in Deutschland this past week have had the US-style tip feature added in. At least here it starts at 7.0%, not 15%. Hector duly obliged.
The Aftermath
With the big names already gone, it was a simple farewell to the duty manager.
The front area of the Dessi Tadka was full.
And so to partake in that other attraction for which München is famous.
Note, too traditional, not Progressive, so no review of the band this time!