Glasgow – Handi By Darbar – The Transformation

The renovation and transformation of Handi By Darbar (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) from Karahi Palace took five months. The Hector was at a loss in the interim, South Indian Curry has appeared disproportionately of late in these pages as a consequence. Moiz, Mein Host and Chef, proved in the first three months of opening last year, that the outstanding Flavours that have been enjoyed, and reported oft in these premises, would be maintained. Tradeston Curry is back, Hector may take up residence here for a time.

Moiz and Hector have been in contact throughout the period of transformation, it took way longer than planned. The result is spanking new décor on the ground-floor, and perhaps more importantly upstairs also. The upstairs at this venue has been grossly underutilised for years. Now is the time to encourage diners to use the space. Will a new TV appear up  there soon?

Marg dropped off the Hector at 13.00 en route to today’s Hockey match. With camera at the ready, as many photos as possible were acquired, without disturbing the two chaps waiting for their Curry.

One asked for – Salt. He also admitted this was only one of his bad habits.

With one ground-floor table relocated to accommodate the new bench for those awaiting Takeaway, the Hector still managed to squeeze into what has been – his spot. The menu was brought, apart from a somewhat steep Boiled Rice (£3.95), the prices all look good. Do study the Lamb Platter (£18.99).

Hector was here for what is the most difficult Curry to find in this city – Desi Korma. Lamb Korma Handi (£12.00) is how this identifies itself. I like how the prices have portions, half-kilos and kilos. A half-kilo in the – Handi – section may not be an attractive proposition, unless one is determined and disregards the extra cost.  Sharing a kilo is always better value.

Yes, Hector was having Rice today, not the customary Chapatti (£1.50) or even a Coriander Naan (£2.50). Rice still feels the better accompaniment when having a Desi Korma. The Vegetable/Biryani Rice (£7.95) will surely be shared at the first opperchancity.

Moiz had two assistants, from my tight corner, I couldn’t see who did the honours. I was still engaged with the chaps who were thoroughly enjoying their Curry.

The place always had potential – said the honoured citizen.

A bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.50) was secured, still regarded as a treat on the Southside. It’s on the menu! The new fridge no longer appears to be – help yourself. The door to the facilities now says – staff only. An attempt to control the string of chancers who pop in?

Moiz brought a platter with a simple Salad, Raita and Chilli Dips.

An amuse-bouche.

The surroundings may have been jazzed up, Hector still felt – at home.

The slightly sticky Boiled Rice was a sensible plateful. Hector would manage every grain, for a change. I would have enjoyed a Vegetable cooked in also.

Lamb Korma Handi

Coriander, Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies sat atop the Curry which still has to be explained to the masses. The Rich Masala may have been blended, Tomato Seeds stood out. The Meat count reached double figures, Lamb on-the-bone – one – Sucky. The arrangement was a vision only imagined whilst the shutters were down.

Oh yes! – right from the start we had a winner.

Moiz was hovering. He must have known how good this was but he was assured, regardless.

The distinctive Desi Korma Flavour came over strongly, complete with a hint of Citrus. After the Dosa Plazza’s (Crawley) Chukka at the start of the week, nothing was going to hurt in terms of Spice. This had a kick, but was declared comfort eating. Finger Chillies, cut lengthways, were unearthed. The Chillies gave the extra bite. The Seasoning was a la Hector, I cannot believe my fellow diner had reason to consider otherwise.

The Meat, ah the Meat. Those who have been to Kabana (Manchester) know when top quality Lamb is served. Handi By Darbar have sourced wonderful Meat. The Lamb was melt-in-the-mouth. So much Flavour coming back also. Perfection, the – Wow! – was duly noted. Each and every mouthful was a joyous moment.

More! Soon!

Why didn’t I order the half-kilo?

Do you like sugar? – asked Moiz.

Where was this going? Previously I have been treated to Tea after my meal. Sugar was never discussed.

Cake! Moiz was ensuring that his – Desserts – feature in Curry-Heute. He informed me that people have been coming in the first two weeks of opening quoting Curry-Heute having read that the Karahi served here is- the best. Quid pro quo.

This was a serious piece of Cheesecake.

How did you know I liked Cheesecake?

The strawberry was bitter and balanced the chocolate.

When Marg sees this, she’ll be straight here.

I did wonder if the sweetness would mask the Curry aftertaste. No fear.

The Bill

£17.45  I’ll do it properly – declared Moiz, having found the wallet and the pad.

Look at the number!

The Aftermath

The afterglow of the Curry was resurrected, such a distinctive Flavour.

Later, Stewart suggested he accompany me here on Monday. I – advised – Dr. Stan that we’re coming on Wednesday. I wonder what we’ll have?

Hector may well be taking up temporary residence.

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Crawley – Dosa Plazza – The Return

The final day of The Crawley Trip saw Hector & co in nearby Horsham. So many places are closed on a Monday, fortunately, Dosa Plazza (8 The Boulevard, Crawley RH10 1XX West Sussex, England), which impressed on visit #1 last year, was open this evening on our return.

Arriving at 20.45, seventy five minutes before closing, we secured a draughty table near the door. In time, the charming waitress invited us to relocate to the table outside the kitchen. Last time, we were moved because we had ordered so much food.

Hector was back for the Mutton Chukka (£10.99), and this time – not for sharing. As with the recently rediscovered Banana Leaf (Glasgow), the Chukka is found in the Starters section of the menu. The – Dry – nature of this Dish is such that maybe it does not belong with the Curry section, well as Curry is served in this Sri Lankan restaurant.

A Plain Parotta (£2.00) would accompany, and in a mood of exploration, the Hector added Aloo Gobi (£7.50) from the – Veg Curry Dishes – section.

Regardless of having sampled the wonder that is the Malabar Parotta here last time, Clive and Maggie both decided upon Murtapha Parotta, Mutton (£7.50) and Chicken (£7.00) respectively. They were prepared to accept whatever came.

In the spirit of ordering something Curry-like, Clive also added Aloo Gobi, whilst Maggie chose Mushroom Masala (£7.50).

As happens oft, the Hector having noted the Order, found it easier to relay it back to the waitress. I started with – can we have everything together?

This appeared to puzzle, but as we were ordering from all over the menu, it made sense to us.

Your pronunciation is excellent – the waitress declared.

The Hector had hit – Parotta – bang on.

So is yours – was the somewhat idiotic reply – I learned it in Sri Lanka.

I’m from Sri Lanka.

And so the ice was broken, the Calling Card issued already, and discussion about Curry would remain ongoing throughout our visit.

Around the corner is Dosa Club, not in the same league as Dosa Plazza. I pointed out that all recent openings of Curry Houses in Crawley have been South Indian / Sri Lankan.

What has happened to Punjabi Cuisine in this town?

Back in 2012, Desi Grill & Punjabi Karahi House proved to be short-lived. Of course there’s the much loved Downsman (Curry Club), but as my hosts have moved from Southgate to Northgate, it is totally in the wrong direction.

Our empty table was filled with food – simultaneously. Mission accomplished.

The Plain Parotta was the most fired Malabar Parotta seen to date. Usually whiter than white, this was a change. The characteristics were otherwise retained, soft, stretchy, buttery an absolute joy to eat.

Since my first encounter of a Malabar Parotta I have been asking – why so small?

*

The Murtapha Parotta almost covered the dinner plates. Stuffed with Chicken/Mutton, Onion and Eggs – was the description on the menu. The Hector was keen to see the insides. My fellow diners of course obliged.

These were different, and appeared to pack a punch. Shredded Meat was visible – Keema – had been wrongly assumed. One can debate if the actual Meat content justified the price. Mr. Keema Naan, across the table, wasn’t complaining.

Mutton Chukka

A wet Chukka? Not since Brussel. This Mutton Chukka bore little resemblance to that served here last July. That was classically – Dry – a Thick Masala, here was – Shorva. Worse than that, what were these oversized strips of Onion doing here? Again, they should have been cooked right down if their presence was required at all.

When our waitress checked on our progress/enjoyment, I showed the photo of July’s Chukka, that which I had been expecting. It was suggested that – maybe Chef rushed it.

That should never be. Did tonight’s Chef actually know what he was meant to be presenting?

Fortunately, that would be Hector’s last criticism. The famed Dried Red Chillies were abundant. Never eaten – who knows what might happen? – their mere presence is the yardstick by which the Hector judges South Indian Cuisine. The Meat count was into double figures, I’ve had smaller – main courses. Curry Leaves were in there too.

The Flavours from the soft Lamb burst onto the palate, no prisoners, the Spice Level was immense. Vindaloo – strength from the outset. I looked across the table, Clive and Maggie were in a similar situation with their combinations.

The Flavours were spot on, The Big Smokey Blast, the Seasoning was beyond the – scale – but far from being – Salty. The Spice kept building, bye-bye Vindaloo. Once in a while one enjoys the cartoon-like sensation of steam blasting out the ears. This was Curry, way more than a Caspar Milquetoast should ever consider.

Dipping the Parotta in the Shorva, such pleasure.

What’s this with the Dipping, Hector? Order Rice!

This was South Indian Curry in the extreme. By the time I had tackled the Aloo Gobi, I was reaching my fill. I then regarded the Onion Strips as Ballast, many were abandoned.

Mushroom Masala

A Mushroom Curry, what a good idea! The orange Masala looked a tad more viscous than in the Chukka. When Maggie emptied the contents of the karahi to her plate, the number of chunky Mushrooms appeared to be sufficient to consider this to be a meal.

Like Marg, Maggie is always quick to announce – this is Spicy!

Tonight, there was no need, we were all in the same boat. It’s just a matter of getting on with it … and never touch the water. Maggie considered ordering Mango Lassi (£4.25) but coped.

Mushrooms cooked with mild spices – so the menu says. Maggie certainly disagreed:

Lots of mushrooms, and sauce a bit thin. Don’t be fooled by the claim that the spices are mild. I found lots of fiery spices, enough to clear my sinuses. Parotta was good for dunking in the sauce. I wouldn’t describe it as – stuffed with chicken – but nice all the same.

What’s this – dunking?

Aloo Gobi

How different is this from every other Aloo Gobi which has appeared previously in these pages? Chefs are usually congratulated for the Minimal Masala, a shrouding of the Potato and Cauliflower. This Masala was even thinner than –Shorva. Boy did it pack some – kick.

The decision was made not to decant thus preventing the Masala/Shorva from each Curry to cross contaminate. It probably made little difference. The Masala in the Aloo Gobi may have been lighter, creamier; the Smokiness and Spice here was just as intense.

The Vegetables both appeared to have been freshly cooked, one is used to a reheat. The Textures were well judged, still a bit of firmness in the Cauliflower, the Potato spot on. The Potato had not been given time to absorb the Flavours from the Masala, maybe just as well. The potency of this Masala shall be mentioned in further dispatches, a yardstick today for Spicy Curry.

Everything today was Spicier than everything else.

Clive later offered a few words:

Dosa was excellent, very attentive and useful staff. The stuffed Parotta was also excellent, Aloo Gobi was only just on the hot side of acceptable spiciness.

The Bill

£49.99

The Aftermath

The shutters went down at 22.00, they had to be raised to let us out.

Until next time when the July 2023 photo of Mutton Chukka will be to hand, this one:

2024 Menu

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London (Whitechapel) – Lahore Kebab House – Maybe – hit & miss – But Still Has It

Today was visit #5 to Lahore Kebab House (2-10 Umberston St., Whitechapel, London, E1 1PY, England), traditionally a significant one in Curry-Heute. By no means a perfect establishment, still another return to this venue. Having explored other areas of that London, it’s approaching three years since we were last here. That was not a particularity outstanding visit, and notably,  Lord Clive and Lady Maggie clearly had not been back in the interim. Dilpasand, across the street, has been a distraction in the interim.

Lahore Kebab House was almost empty when we arrived at 14.00, West Ham v Arsenal had just kicked off and was being shown on the multi-screens around the restaurant. As West Ham leaked more and more goals, so the place filled. For the first time, I spotted that a BYOB system is in operation. It wasn’t the bottles of wine on the table, but a bottle of Black Label, that gave it away. I carefully refrained from taking photos of the customers who were imbibing. Who knows who reads this reliable and incriminating Curry Blog?

The menu was on the table and as expected, prices had increased significantly since 2021. Rice (£4.75) aside for a solo diner, they still remain competitive.

Being a Sunday, some of the – Specials – were available, none took our fancy. Dry Lamb (£12.00) now seemingly available daily, has yet to be tried. The Hector had not yet generated enough saliva to tackle this today, something – wet – was required.

On visit #1 back in 2016, Methi Gosht (£12.00) went down well, time to sample this again. Last time, Fish Curry (£12.00) did not particularly impress Maggie and Hector, the Curry was not what Clive had enjoyed here in 2019. Despite reminding Maggie of this fact, she ordered Fish Curry again. There are no prizes for guessing Clive’s order: Keema Curry (£12.00) with a Keema Naan (£4.50). Knowing that a portion of Pilau (£4.75) would be substantial, it was declared that Hector’s Rice would be available for all. Maggie ordered a Tandoori Paratha also.

750ml bottles of Still (£3.00) and Sparkling Water (£3.00) proved to be excellent value. No devil’s water at our table.

A modest Salad and Raita arrived.

Even the mint has chilli in it! – remarked Maggie.

It’s a Curry House – was the Hector’s somewhat curt reply.

The wait was appropriate. Usually we would have ordered the excellent Seekh Kebab (£2.00) as a distraction whilst waiting. Not today. Maybe the three of us knew how much other food we had eaten last night.

The Pilau was mostly white, not as one would expect. Presented on a plate there was way more than a Hector could manage. Diced Carrots and Peas were mixed in, but just a threat, nowhere near enough to consider the word – Biryani. After helping myself, I passed the plate on. Both Clive and Maggie’s Rice requirements were sated.

*

The Tandoori Paratha, served in two pieces, appeared to have been made from Wholemeal Flour and was greasy. With no suggestion of the spiral, not the best example ever seen. The Keema Naan, served in quarters, was bursting at the seams. The brown Mince was clearly visible in what was a Naan with serious girth. Clive managed all but what one might leave if it were a pizza, an outside edge, no crust here. How he can eat this feast and a Curry remains a mystery.

Keema Curry

The Keema at Lahore Kebab House was back to what it was, no needless Masala, and just a bit of peripheral Oil collecting. Last time here, I had to shake my head such was the excess liquid. The quantity of Meat appeared to be enormous, however, something was lurking, buried beneath the Keema. One large, single piece of Potato was unearthed, Diversity. Aloo Keema, even better. Efficacy restored.

An unexpected surprise of a potato. An excellent spice level, very good, just on the border of being too hot.

Fish Curry

The – soupy – orange Masala with strips of large, sliced Onions, was a replica of that which did not please last visit. How did Clive secure such a markedly different version previously? This Curry required Rice.

Having reminded Maggie, again, that neither of us were particularly taken by the Fish Curry in 2021, she concluded:

Too hot last time, not so today, cleared my sinuses. The Fish wasn’t as good as – the Fish Curry(Indian Mango, München). I have a cold, can’t say much more.

*

Methi Gosht

As visit #1 revealed, the Masala was approaching – Shorva. Rice was definitely required. The dark coloured Masala looked as Peppery as it did Herb-rich. Dry Methi Leaves had been sprinkled on top, one cannot say how much, if any, had been cooked in.  This was the favoured Masala with Methi, not the mass of – green – that some premises present. Ten pieces of Meat were arranged on the Rice, as ever half of the Masala was retained for the end game.

Tender Meat – was an initial note, but this was revised downwards as progress was made. Most of the Lamb/Mutton was quite chewy, Kabana (Manchester) this was not, closer to the cheaper cuts served in Athena Curry Cafes. The intensity of Flavours coming from the Meat is why I was back.

The Spice built slowly. The Methi was not in one’s face, one slowly realised the Herb presence. The Spice Level built more, Flavours emerged. The food was never more than – warm – which did restrict the degree of positive reporting. Far from being outstanding, this was simply comfort eating. By the end, the palate was in a very happy place, more Methi might have clinched it. Still, here was authentic, Desi Cuisine.

The Bill

£54.75   Cash only, card machine not working. For once, this was not an issue. Lahore Kebab House has a free to use cash machine embedded in their window outside.

The Aftermath

Our departure was delayed as we went to fetch cash in a relay. One or two staff did nod as we departed. By this time, the place was pretty full. 0 v 6!

The tally of visits commands that Lahore Kebab House be added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.

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Brighton – Curry Leaf Cafe (Brighton Lanes) – There ain’t no such thing as a free lunch.

This was visit #4 to Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes (60 Ship St., Brighton BN1 1AE England), they must be doing something right. The prices, however, have become a bit off-putting. The Hyderabadi Lamb Thali (£18.95) has previously been the attraction, however at 13.10, the appetite was not there. Neither Rice or Bread felt appropriate, time to try something else. £18.95, for lunch, as steep as the hills of Brighton.

In Marg’s visit here, she had Goan Pork Ribs (£10.95), time for Hector to try these. Bombay Potatoes (£5.95) should make this a meal. Having read the entire menu to Clive, Lamb Geelafi Seekh (£10.95 / £15.95) became his choice. Having asked the waiter how large – large – was, Clive went – large. At the last minute, he added Aubergine Bhajis (£7.50). Quite an investment.

The first bottle of tap water disappeared in seconds, another was secured. At least today we were not inflating our bill with drinks.

Curry Leaf Cafe was busy today, a group of ten sat at the rear of the premises. The tables near the window were also occupied. A popular place.

Goan Pork Ribs

Not the biggest portion of Ribs ever seen, four bones. The cremated edges were a plus, hot food, also appreciated. The accompanying Salad and Dip offered distraction.

Succulent Pork, tasty, but not very much of it. Four skinny strips, hardly a meal. The Spicy coating differentiated these from any other Ribs previously encountered. Double the quantity or halving the price would have enhanced enjoyment.

Bombay Potatoes

Potatoes encrusted with Spices, such a simple Dish. Potatoes make a meal, so by decanting to the plate of Ribs, lunch suddenly looked more substantial. An earthy Flavour with a hint of Citrus came across. Combined with the Salad and Dip the Hector had a plateful of Diversity.

Aubergine Bhajis

Behold, six slices of Eggplant in a batter. What a rip-off! How the price of these was justified only – they – know. Maybe the Tamarind Dip justified the price?

Clive made short work of these, his enjoyment was declared.

Lamb Geelafi Seekh

This was the – large – portion? The Seekh Kebap were made from a mixture of Chicken and Lamb. Crumbly, finger food, however, Clive did employ a fork to tackle the Salad. Yet more Tamarind meant there was a lot to dip.

Excellent – Clive always enthuses about his food.

But not too sure about value for money – was his caveat.

Indeed, we should have gone for the Thali, then we would have been fed. A lesson learned.

The Bill

£18.60 and £25.80 A service charge? They’re at it.

The Aftermath

And so for the real business of the day.

*

2024 Menu

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London – Drummond Villa – Euston, We Have A Problem

Today, Hector finds himself in that London. The 08.40 from Glasgow arrived at Euston bang on schedule. Did the driver slow down in the last five hundred metres to arrive at exactly 13.12? Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were there to meet, a Euston Curry was already agreed.

With Putney the eventual destination this afternoon, a city centre Curry House was required. With the demise of – The India Club – at Strand, new venues had to be considered. Dr. Bernard had the Hector survey Tooting last year, subsequently he highlighted the cluster near Euston Station. Indeed, this is where the Hector first had London Curry dating back to the 1970s.

Drummond Villa (118 Drummond St., Camden, London NW12 HN England) is spoken of highly in other sources. Drummond Street runs parallel to Euston Street, the latter is blocked off due to a massive construction project that is taking nobody anywhere, and at great cost to us all.

We arrived at Drummond Villa at 13.30. The mirrors on the back wall created the illusion of vast premises. The place is actually tiny, but is there is an overflow downstairs adjacent to the kitchen.

We were given the window table. From there I could see the line of Curry Houses across the street. There were many to choose from, I had chosen this one.

Tablecloths! – remarked Maggie.  This was not our usual Punjabi Curry Cafe.

Drinks were sorted, 330ml bottles of both Still and Sparkling Water (£3.50) suited Maggie and Hector. Clive was not playing, but a glass of tap water eventually came his way. Why is the same sized quantity of Fanta only £2.50?

On presenting the Water, the waiter put the Sparkling in front of me then proceeded to open Maggie’s Still. He then switched claiming he had them the wrong way round. I advised him accordingly, he wasn’t having this.

So the Hector cannot read?

We switched back after he went away. Stupid boy, and quite distracted overall.

Whilst Maggie inspected downstairs, I advised Clive that Dansak was on the menu, his usual fallback. Chicken Dansak (£10.20) it would be, with a Keema Naan (£2.95). Nothing in the – Chef’s Specials – seemed so. I liked the grid showing the Standards, and also the description of the Roghan Josh. Tomato, not the Creamy version which keeps appearing currently. Lamb Roghan Josh (£11.75) and Pilau Rice (£3.30) for the Hector. Maggie, who said she was starving, chose Lamb Korahi (£11.20) with a Chapatti (£2.10). £2.10 for a Chapatti?

Maggie asked for – medium Spice. The waiter didn’t consult the chaps.

Deliveries were ongoing as we waited. Some brought to the counter, a box left at the top of the stairs leading down to the kitchen. A group of six, very loud too, sat at the far end of the room. The wait for the food felt appropriate.

The Chapatti, served in bits, was weird. Some parts looked traditional, others layered and puffy. The Keema Naan was comparatively small, and again served quartered. Brown Meat was confirmed inside, decent.

The portion of Pilau was definitely in the – sensible – category. The Hector would manage all but the final grains. Not a scrap of Bread would be left.

Lamb Korahi

Here was a classic example of why I never order Karahi in a Mainstream Curry House. Just how many pieces of Capsicum were there? Big blobs of Ballast, Onion too, horrendous. From where was the Chef? Not from Whitechapel or Tooting, that’s for sure. There was a Karahi in there, somewhere.

Maggie lined up all the pieces of the Offending Vegetable on her plate. However, having discarded them she ate the lot. Maggie was hungry, not a morsel left.

The size of portion was right for me. The onion and the capsicums were in large lumps which did not appeal to me. The spice was medium hot. Lots of chunks of meat which came apart easily in the mouth, didn’t have to chew it (much).

*

*

Chicken Dansak

The Daal looked a bit reddish rather than the expected orange. The consistency of the Masala was viscous.

Having written Clive’s comments on many a Dansak, I asked him the burning question:

Is that the best Dansak you’ve ever had?

Apparently not.

Not the best Dansak in the World but a good one. My initial reaction, it was a bit small, but there was plenty of meat. The meat to sauce ratio was good.

I expect my Naan to arrive in one piece.

Lamb Roghan Josh

Tomatoes! Lots of Tomatoes! Initially I thought there was hardly any meat in the handi, however double figures was reached. The Lamb was well buried under the half-cooked Tomatoes. Tomatoes, so much better than Capsicum, never Ballast, an integral part of any Curry. The Masala was not excessive, a decent consistency.

Where was the Spice? There was absolutely no – kick – here. Was this Curry – the blandest thing on the menu?

The Seasoning fared a bit better, however, this only highlighted the underlying Flavour. In a recently purchased Takeaway (back home) I described the Curry as having a – soapy Clove – Flavour. Here it was again, without the Clove, just the soap.

What was the source of this? The answer was actually staring me in the face!*

The Tender Meat was giving nothing back, but then what Spice was there for it to be able to do so? This could easily have been a Euro Curry, so undemanding, totally lacking in depth of Flavour. This was Curry from a bygone age.  We don’t do this any more.  Evidently, we do. How remote was this from a proper Punjabi Curry?

The Bill

£53.35   This included a £4.85 service charge, cheeky.

The Aftermath

Maggie complained to the waiter about the mass of Capsicum.

The Calling Card was given to the waiter. Curry-Heute was shown on the trusty Oppo. The page to hand was the recently posted Banana Leaf (Glasgow). I highlighted the Chukka and the Chettinad.

You don’t have anything like that here. I take it this is a Bangladeshi restaurant?

The waiter confirmed my deduction.

I pointed to the box outside still sitting at the top of the stairs.

No self respecting Punjabi House would put Cabbage* in their Curry.

Whereas, this is typical of Bangladeshi cooking. Cabbage, presumably the source of the source of the – soapiness.

Hector is not a fan of Bangladeshi or Nepalese Curry, and only wears a Thai when eating steak pie

2024 Menu

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Glasgow – Banana Leaf – Revisited, already!

Two days after visit #1 of – Rediscovery – the Hector was back at Banana Leaf (192 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5SG), this time, Marg accompanied. The strategy today was to make myself better known and capture interior photos which was not possible on Saturday due to the presence of other customers. Oh, Curry was also part of the plan. Arriving at 13.10, there was not a familiar face in the kitchen or front of house. Ah well.

We were given a window table as were those who came after. Being in the basement, this was less of an issue. The bottle of chilled tap water once again appeared when the menu was brought.

I had forewarned Marg that I wanted to share a Starter – Lamb Chukka (£5.50). Hector sharing, mark the day. This I first had at the original premises back in 2019 before all that happened thereafter, happened.

Being more aware of the menu, the inclusive Rice would be ordered with the mains, but a Parotta (£2.00) would be required to enjoy with the Chukka.

Today, a Fish Curry for Hector – Chappali Pulusu (£9.00), whilst Marg chose Lamb Aatu Erachi (£9.00), both have a – one Chilli – rating.

The Order noted, Marg disappeared for a moment. During her absence, Suren, Mein Host, appeared and acknowledged the Hector. He came over and was pleased with the new dedicated page in Curry-Heute for Banana Leaf. Separating that which has previously been posted from Madhras Dosa (the original premises still serving similar fayre) took a bit of time and effort. Suren was keen to point out once again that the two operations are not connected.

Marg returned – you missed Mein Host.

That the connection had been made, pleased. Little did I know what would unfold after our meal.

Our waiter brought the Chukka and Parotta. Hector’s favourite Indian Bread, all boxes ticked, one proved to be enough even though we were sharing.

Lamb Chukka

This is the antithesis of the other – Curry – served at Banana Leaf. Hector’s preference will always be for a Dry Curry, this is even drier.

The pile of Meat, with a sprinkling of Coriander atop, sat on one side of the plate. The hoped for dried Red Chillies were there, yay! Shredded iceberg lettuce occupied the far side. If one is doing – foliage – then let’s be inspired by Manchester Curry Cafes. Marg took care of the greenery, this was not required by the Hector.

A bit too spicy for me – was Marg’s opening remark.  Never heard that before.

Hector was on home ground.

Sixteen pieces of Meat, cut small, a favourable quantity for a Starter. Two portions would make an excellent main course, bin the green stuff.  Actually, sliced Tomatoes and Onions might be a welcomed accompaniment here.

The Spice Level was spot on, as was the Seasoning. Spicy, Smoky, with the thickest of Minimal Masala shrouding the Lamb, this was Hector Heaven. Soft Meat, every bite giving off Spice and Flavour, this was an intense eating experience. Yes, two portions would make an excellent meal. Whilst savouring the final pieces of Meat, Suren brought the mains. Fortunately, at Banana Leaf, the food is served – super-hot – so by the time the ritual photos were sorted, the Curry was ready to eat.

Normally, Marg has Chapattis, today she accepted that given the nature of the South Indian Curry, Rice was the better option.  Dipping, The Bamberg Conundrum maintains.

The Rice portion was substantial. At the outset Marg said she would not be eating all the Rice, she did. Hector considered the quantity to be manageable, but came to realise that there was a grain or two too many.

Chappali Pulusu

Pieces of white Fish were floating near the top of the bowl. Behold the – Soupy Curry!

The Man from Bradford would have apoplexy.

Once decanted, the Fish was partly in flakes, the majority still managing to retain its integrity. The quantity was just enough to consider this – a meal. The orange Masala was decidedly runny, if this was a Euro Curry there would be questions. However, this is how South Indian Curry is typically served*. Curry Leaves were in the mix as were seeds, Onion Seeds?

The palate was already saturated with Chukka, it would take a few minutes to adjust.

The Spice and Seasoning were less than the glorious Starter. Remnants of Parotta were giving off more – Salt. If there was a smokiness, it was not being detected. Fortunately, the Fish saved the day. The Flavour of the Fish was pronounced, this was a Fish Curry. Hector had learned a lesson: if having Lamb Chukka, have it last!

Lamb Aatu Erachi

It was difficult to tell the Dishes apart, actually Suren had them the wrong way round as those who appreciate photographic perspectives may have spotted.  The Masala here appears to be slightly less runny.

Smoky but sweet – was Marg’s first comment. Not too Spicy then, but she too had the Chukka infused palate. For a lady who usually has Chapattis she made quick work of her Curry and Rice.

A smooth, smokey and slightly sweet sauce, full of flavour. Small bite size pieces of Lamb completed the dish with a large portion of Rice.

Nobody was leaving feeling hungry.

Having finished, Suren returned with his co-manager, Vasanth. Vasanth was already aware of Curry-Heute and had previously initiated contact on a certain social medium. Vasanath sat down, we talked at length about Hector’s favourite topic – Curry. Indian Mango (München) had to be mentioned, their – Dry Chettinad* – remains unique to the best of Hector’s knowledge. That Curry-Heute did have some influence here was declared, who knows, it might catch on?

That Marg and Hector had been to India and Sri Lanka was recognised. We have experienced the diversity of Curry in the Subcontinent.

How had Hector not been aware of the new Banana Leaf premises? Apparently they have not gone out of their way to advertise, relying on – word of mouth. Hopefully Curry-Heute will also make people aware that they are back.

Pricing and portion sizes were discussed. On Saturday it was written that £9.00 for a moderately sized main course and inclusive sundries, is certainly attractive.

The Bill

£25.50   For two, with a shared Starter!

The Aftermath

It was Suren who suggested the team photo.

Things are looking good at Banana Leaf. I shall of course return, often, but not for a while. Another favourite venue re-opened today but does not have a full menu on offer as yet.

Here at Banana Leaf, there are some Vegetable Dishes that intrigue, then of course there’s the World of Dosa. As we departed, Marg couldn’t resist sampling – The Bits.

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Glasgow – Banana Leaf – Rediscovered!

One always tries to keep abreast of Curry developments, particularly in one’s own city. Somehow, the relocation of Banana Leaf (192 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5SG), and in effect a reopening, passed the Hector by.

Having recently celebrated the early opening times at the former premises in the West End, now Madhras Dosa, behold, the new Banana Leaf, open  at noon (closed Tuesdays).

With nearby Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen and Rishi’s Indian Aroma, a small cluster of South Indian venues is evolving in this area north-west of Central Station.

Two doors down from Banana Leaf, Madurai, another Aberdoom source of South Indian fayre is due to open soon. Can all survive?

Arriving at the new Banana Leaf at 13.40, a delivery bike was parked at the entrance, one of a stream that would present during my stay. A basement restaurant, this was quite a departure from the original premises, relaxed pukka. Unfortunately, photo opperchancities of the layout and décor will have to wait for a quiet Monday. Today, the place was just too busy to take anything meaningful.

The clientele were decidedly Indian, quite a different crowd from Hector’s usual Saturday outings.

A young waiter greeted and offered a table mid-room. Those with friends occupied the tables along the window and the far wall. With quite a bit of wasted space at the doorway, possibly about the size of the original premises, there was a large counter with open kitchen behind. Who planned this?

A new Banana Leaf, however, the menu remains pretty much the same as before. The Lamb Chukka (£5.50) a – Dry Curry – maintains, but is still under – Starters. This I only discovered on my last visit to Banana Leaf original. Sukka/Chukka I have been enjoying at every opperchancity around Europe since then. Banana Leaf set the standard.

Today, Hector was having the all time favourite South Indian Curry – Lamb Chettinadu (£9.00). Hidden away at the very back of the menu under – Additional – was Parotta (£2.00). I assumed this to be the much loved Malabar Parotta, the waiter verified. I ordered two. Parotta sensibly priced, yay.

I had considered a Rice accompaniment, Jeera Rice (£5.25), no thanks. At Banana Leaf original, a choice of Rice/Chapatti/Paratha was included with – mains. This remains so, however the Hector did not see this at the foot of the Chicken and Vegetable pages. A city centre restaurant serving a £9.00 Lamb Curry with Rice/Chapatti/Paratha, what’s not to like? Nowhere did I see the dreaded word – Tapas.

The four Lamb choices remain: Chettinadu, Korma, Saag, and the strangely named – Aatu Erachi. Three of these have been enjoyed previously. Given the price, location and opening times, I feel they are about to be enjoyed again soon. And given the splendid ambience, Marg will be keen to come too.

Tried and tested, inclusive Rice and a Parotta may well be the way to go.

I was ready to order – Soft Drinks (£1.50) – when a large bottle of chilled tap water was provided.

The waiter acknowledged my enthusiasm re the Parotta. An opperchancity to ask how long these premises had been occupied. A year. How has the Hector missed this?

An ongoing favourable score up north meant that time was dragging. I suspect my Order did not take long to arrive.

There’s only one thing better than a Malabar Parotta, two. White, thick, layered, a spiral, stretchy, and a wonderful Buttery Flavour. Yum. Then there’s this – dipping – thing that peeps apparently do with Soupy Curry.

*

*

Lamb Chettinadu

Super-hot food, just how the Hector likes it. Tentative dips was all I could manage, the Meat would have to wait.

Wow! – Everything that was anticipated came to be. The Big Smoky Blast gave way to a definite Pepperiness. The – two Chilli – rating was spot on, this was a Spicy Curry. The Seasoning was right up there. And all this from the Brown Blended Masala alone. 

The Meat proved to be soft, and each bite gave a blast of Spice, as one associates with a Desi Curry 

The football score hadn’t changed, Hector had a fine example of South Indian Fayre, all was going well, and still there was Parotta.  Often I have questioned their size, but the Hector discovered he could not manage two whole Parotta. One with Rice works better, for me.

On clearing the table, the waiter asked if the Parotta had lived up to expectations. Most certainly. I told him there was five minutes to go in the match, I would come up to pay shortly. A tantalsing result, up to The Famous to do their bit.

The Bill

£11.00   Way less than expected due to my not reading all the menu.

The Aftermath

The waiter was busy as I paid, it was the manager, Suren, who received the Calling Card. It took a moment or two for him to pick up what Curry-Heute is and here was the author. Clearly, it was the Madhras Dosa page that I had to show him. How to separate the two?

Curry-Heute once again has a stand alone page for Banana Leaf, however, it will take time to build up the gallery for the new premises. Meanwhile, Banana Leaf appears in Glasgow’s Top Rated.

How long before Curryspondent John makes an appearance?

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Glasgow – Papa Gill’s (Yoker) – A Delivery, plus other frustrations

This evening, the Hector succumbed to ordering a first ever delivery Curry. The constraints determined it had to be local, but how to avoid the uniform taste which prevails in Clydebank?

Papa Gill’s (2376 Dumbarton Rd., Yoker, Glasgow G14 0JJ) was not the first choice of venue. Spice India – is the closest Takeaway to Hector’s House. They have not exactly overwhelmed in the two visits soon after their late 2022 opening.

Closing early doesn’t help.

Having braved the elements, the walk proved to be a waste of time. The menu was nothing but a list of Chicken Curry variants with no obvious Lamb equivalent. Lamb Curry (£10.50) or Lamb Korma (£10.50) was all, I left, shaking my head.

On the day after wee Jimmy Krankie shed a tear at the Covid enquiry, I could have continued the walk across the city boundary, denied during Lockdown, to fetch something decent from New Kismet Tandoori. Ah the elements, no thanks.

Back home, a New Kismet Tandoori delivery was considered, however, many Dishes were not available. Let’s try Papa Gill’s, only the thirteen years since I last crossed their threshold. 

Lamb Garam Masala (£7.95) and Special Fried (£4.50) was the Order.

The Garam Masala was described as being – cooked dry – and appeared to include no nasties. The proforma permitted refinements, an opperchancity to add – No visible peppers/capsicums.

The Bill

£15.95 This included a 50p service charge and £3.00 delivery.

A forty five minute wait was stated with the confirmation. Time to salivate, but Hector’s taste-buds had already been titillated today.

This afternoon, the first ever attempt at making Samosa, a Marg favourite. Marg was out this evening at a Scottish Sports Dinner, she won an award. Marg wins trophies/awards. The Hector was amusing himself in the kitchen, the results were – garbage.

Lessons learned:

Demonstration videos on how to fold pastry must use sleight of hand.

Sources may claim that filo pastry sheets make decent Samosa, they don’t.

Coriander which has been frozen for months is horrible.

Otherwise, Hector has been treading water this week, waiting for the reopening of a certain Southside venue. Next Monday, 99.9999% certain – we shall see.

The Curry arrived timeously. Two containers, the quantity of Rice matched the Curry, a self fulfilling prophecy was already developing. The Rice contained fresh Mushrooms and Onions which may have been partially caramelised. The Rice itself appeared to be no more than Pilau, Vegetable Biryani this was not.

A – soapy Clove – Flavour came off the Rice not a good start. I quickly identified and isolated the source. The Onions, I may as well as had Capsicum.

A pile, reminiscent of – Klingon Gagh – was assembled at the edge of the plate.  Not so Special Rice then.

Lamb Garam Masala

A Dry Curry indeed, the Masala was as Thick as can be. The ratio of Meat to Masala was commendable, this was not a Soupy horror show. As one would expect in a West of Scotland Takeaway, the Meat count was well into double figures, and each piece was large. Ordering Starters, two could easily share one such Curry portion.

There was Spice, sliced Green Chillies were in the mix. Despite having a – kick – it was apparent that this Curry was lacking complexity. Depth of Flavour was reported missing. Needless to say, the Seasoning was way below the Hector idyll.

The Lamb itself was dry, and was giving little back. The irony, more Masala would have helped. Topping up the plate with the remnants from the foil tray, things did improve matters. The extra ten minutes of Lamb sitting in Masala had made quite a difference. Garam Masala, something more complex was coming through, albeit there was a sense of detachment. Note the absence of an oily residue. Maybe, deep down, I was missing the benefits this provides.

Mainstream Curry, this is what you get. Expect no more.

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Salford – Maida Grill House – Across the River Irwell

Salford, a city within Greater Manchester and the locus of Curry-Heute. Maida Grill House (36 Liverpool St., Salford M5 4LT England) was discovered in a routine search for new venues whilst in Manchester. Yesterday at Kabana, I declared to Rizwan that if it was raining, and it has consistently in the last week, I would be back for – Hector’s Fish Creation, else I would walk to Maida across the River Irwell.

You’ll be recognised – was Rizwan’s reaction, Lalaa, the proprietor is a former Kabana employee – you’ll know him – I was further assured.

Today, Storm Jocelyn has abated, who’s next? Marg and Hector set off on our sojourn, a forty five minute walk. Public transport from the Northern Quarter to Liverpool St. would still have left us with a significant walk. Why bother? There would be an Uber back. A Liverpool Street in Salford, a wind up?

Entering Maida at 14.15, Lalaa, Mein Host greeted warmly, he never did confirm any sense of recognition.

Rice & Three (£8.50) was the obvious Order for Hector, the best way to evaluate the Fayre at a new venue. The – Daily Specials – on the printed menu corresponded with the Board, this suited the Hector. The Mix Veg would offer a Diversity of Texture, Keema Peas might offer a Methi Blast and of course Lamb Karahi (with bone) should reveal all about Maida.

Marg enquired about Starters, Vegetable Pakora, not seen on the menu would suffice. The Order was relayed to the kitchen where three ladies were busying themselves. A table of three chaps was ahead of us, meanwhile an array of tools at another conveyed that other work was about to get underway.

One of the ladies brought the Pakora and accompanying sauces.

Vegetable Pakora

Four large pieces, and quite an array of Salad elements, created quite a plateful. A worthy snack. Potato and Spinach formed the interior of the Pakora which we both felt was more – Bhaji-like.

One of yesterday’s – Specials – was Spinach Potato (£5.00), so a good example of using up leftovers. Marg found the batter to be – a bit soggy – and speculated that a microwave had done it no favours.

Rice & Three

Coriander and sliced Green Chillies, the – foliage – had already been applied. The three portions of Curry were more than enough to titillate. Beneath lay a mass of Rice, of European proportions. I started with the Lamb Karahi.

Ho-ho-ho – was the Hector reaction as I pointed out this section of the plate to Marg. Wonderful! The Seasoning was right up there, the Spice Level was such there was a definite – kick. The viscous, Minimal Masala was markedly different than the – Karahi – served in the Curry Cafes across the water. I unearthed a Sucky Bone, this Curry was doing it all. The soft Meat was giving off Clove as is a common feature in this region. A plateful of this alone next time could be tempting.

Aloo Gobi appeared to be the dominant feature of the Mixed Veg. The Texture of both the Potato and Cauliflower was spot on. Carrot, Peas, Green Beans and Sweetcorn also featured. The Masala here was – even less. Just how much of this had been absorbed by the Vegetables and the Rice below?

The Keema Peas was again – Dry. One always congratulates Chef when needless moisture is not served with this Curry. With an Earthy Flavour, I was aware of waiting for more, more Methi. This never arrived. The Keema felt the – least – of the – Three – comparisons being inevitable. Maybe Rice & Three feels too much like Buffet, the Hector works better with a Meat main course and a Side of Vegetables.

Everything that can be seen in the first photo was eaten, i.e. all the Curry. I had no chance with the Rice. The irony of course is that the Rice had absorbed so much of the available Masala, in the final mouthfuls I could have done with more. Dry Curry works better with Bread, but that is not the nature of this Greater Manchester institution.

Lalaa came over to ask the customary question.

Your Karahi is excellent – was the first praise. He claimed that Maida is the only place this side of the Irwell serving Lamb on-the-bone, and went on to mention Manchester’s Northern Quarter and Cheetham Hill. I do not recall any mention of Rusholme, but who still goes there, for Curry?

The Bill

£11.00   Classic Curry Cafe value.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given to one of the ladies. Mein Host was dealing with other matters. Meanwhile, there was the ongoing cacophony of a drill in full grind mode, a new heater was being fitted. We weren’t for hanging around.

2024 Menu

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Manchester – Kabana – Quail Meat again

Half past one, a good time to visit Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1FR England), before this, one might have to queue to get in. It’s Wednesday, Quail Day at Kabana (Cheetham Hill), but yesterday, Rizwan invited us to share the – Staff Curry – a first time experience here in the Northern Quarter. Three of the seven dining at Kabana today had signed up for Batair / Bateera (£7.00).

Howard, briefly known as Mr. Kabana (see below) and Josh were today’s fellow Quailers. Both were sitting with Clive and Maggie when Hector arrived at 13.31. The adjacent table was partly occupied, that wouldn’t suffice. The table at the door became free, Steve arrived, we grabbed it and assembled the Quailers. Then the larger table mid room became free, Lalaa summoned us, we complied. Legroom. Mags would subsequently join Clive and Maggie.

Howard was having a Chapatti (£1.00), I suggested that Josh and I share a Nan (£1.00).

*

It’s not often I have Bread at Kabana, the Naan here is something else. Round, soft, light, fluffy, it feels more like a Flat Bread than a traditional Naan. Wonderful Bread.

Batair / Bateera

The three pots of – foliage – were brought to the table. The ritual smothering got underway.

Two wee birds in a Thick Masala. Footery – has been the apposite adjective each time Quail has appeared in these pages. Gamey – way better than Chicken, it would have to be else the Hector would be showing no interest whatsoever. Maintaining some dignity, Howard tackled his Curry with a knife and fork, Josh and Hector got down and dirty.

The Spice Level impressed, it was comforting to note that this was how the staff would have it. Not crazy, sensible. Having eaten one, the second bird felt like a matter of course. Does anyone ever have – three? Two Quails, definitely a lot less Meat than having a Karahi Gosht. Sucky Bones, every mouthful seemed to involve a bit of sucking. The wishbones were remarked upon, why?

A passing member of staff asked if we required anything else. I gave him the – bigger stomach – response.

To what extent the Hot Spice was coming from the Masala or was already embedded in the Quail could not be established. The Masala itself was excellent, different from that served with the Karahi, seemingly more full of Flavour from that served at Brother Mani’s at Kabana (Cheetham Hill), but just as – runny. This, I had to tell Rizwan as he came to verify our enjoyment. What a sook. My fellow Quailers were suitably verbose, Josh:

Certainly moreish. Exciting because that’s the first time I’ve had Quail. I agree with your assessment, if I had a bigger stomach …

Howard likes to play the game:

My first ever Quail, a very elegant, refined and delicate dish which can’t be eaten with any degree of refinement, elegance or subtlety. The Quail and sauce took flight and proved yet another wonderful eating experience at Kabana. It seems impossible, but Kabana gets better and better.

Howard has yet to have Hector’s – Fish Creation.

The Bill

£23.00 For the three Quail and two Breads.

The Aftermath

Second in command after Hector – was how Rizwan described Howard as he paid. Howard’s reign as – Mr. Kabana – is over.

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